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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 08-04-2016, 07:09 PM
  #10756  
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:36 PM
  #10757  
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I just picked up a HW xr10 just stock, I was going to get the V3.1 or xr10 pro for my 2wd sct that I plan to run in the stock class, but they were to costly for me atm on top of that I still need radio an batt so Im just tryna make it all come together, I've been told the xr10 just stock is plenty competitive in the stock class but I want a solid answer as the internet has me confused you can read one thing an another else where so I thought I'd ask here as I have not opened it yet ? I also purchased a protek 100t servo, an I'm in the market for a 17.5 motor, Ive been looking at the fantom fr-1 an the hobby wing v10 g2 bandit, I'd like to have matching motor an esc but being competitive is most important to me, I was told the G2 bandit is built to IFMAR specs and is faster than normal, I am concerned the just stock esc wont have enough juice for the bandit motor can any one confirm this as well ? and am I on a good path to being competitive with what I've stated in "general" as I also red that there can be issues with Bec an servos does this pertain to the xr10 just stock ? thanks a ton for any help or opinions...just looking for some confidence in my decisions not starting a brand war. again id hate to invest in the wrong setup an unfortunately cannot afford the best just wanna be competitive an on the right track.

Last edited by PhilipBGreen; 08-07-2016 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:22 PM
  #10758  
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The just stock can handle down to a 8.5t so an outlaw 17.5t isn't going to be a problem.

Never tried a bandit so cant say if that's a good decision. Not sure i would pick an outlaw motor though. Your track may allow it but most travel races will not.


Originally Posted by PhilipBGreen
I just picked up a HW xr10 just stock, I was going to get the V3.1 or xr10 pro for my 2wd sct that I plan to run in the stock class, but they were to costly for me atm on top of that I still need radio an batt so Im just tryna make it all come together, I've been told the xr10 just stock is plenty competitive in the stock class but I want a solid answer as the internet has me confused you can read one thing an another else where so I thought I'd ask here as I have not opened it yet ? I also purchased a protek 100t servo, an I'm in the market for a 17.5 motor, Ive been looking at the fantom fr-1 an the hobby wing v10 g2 bandit, I'd like to have matching motor an esc but being competitive is most important to me, I was told the G2 bandit is built to IFMAR specs and is faster than normal, I am concerned the just stock esc wont have enough juice for the bandit motor can any one confirm this as well ? and am I on a good path to being competitive with what I've stated in "general" as I also red that there can be issues with Bec an servos does this pertain to the xr10 just stock ? thanks a ton for any help or opinions...just looking for some confidence in my decisions not starting a brand war. again id hate to invest in the wrong setup an unfortunately cannot afford the best just wanna be competitive an on the right track.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:20 PM
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thanks for the info I looked at my local track rules an they go by Roar so no outlaw motor for me, I was told the xr10 just stock was fine just wanted to be "sure sure" I'm being told to invest in good radio, batt, charger, an motor so I'm playing the Give an Take game I need more money lol I'm being recommended an airtronics mt4 an icharger duo 308/408 witch is more than double my last radio an charger setup FML I think I need to just get back to having fun, its funny we call these things toy's cause they sure dont cos't like or feel like a toy

Last edited by PhilipBGreen; 08-07-2016 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:49 PM
  #10760  
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I have been trying to find equivalent weights for the various hobbywing ESC's...

I am currently running 120a v2.1's in my B5m, T5m and SC5m. Hobbywing's website simply lists 105g for the witght, I assume that is with the wires and external cap. The v3.1 lists 42.7g for the regular and 32.6g for the stock, both without wires. The xr20 pro lists 95g with wires.

So obviously the xr10 is 10g lighter than the v2.1, but what about the v3.1?

Also which would be the best for stock buggy? I like my 2.1 but I have another car I could put it into if I could replace it with a better, lighter esc.

Thanks!
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:23 AM
  #10761  
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What's the deal with the bug/fault with the wifi express???
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:23 AM
  #10762  
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Off Facebook

Dear Valued Customers,
The HOBBYWING North America team would like to extend our sincerest apologies for the delay in the release of our WiFi Express Module.
We are currently working as hard as we can to remedy any potential issues with the WiFi Link app, which is the interface for the module. Although progress has been made, we want to make sure that we have completely eliminated all possibility of any issues that may affect the module's performance. Because our mission is to provide the RC community with top-quality electronics, the last thing we want to do is put your ESCs at risk of being aversely affected in any way. Therefore, we are still holding off on shipping out any WiFi Express modules until the WiFi Link app has been perfected.
We realize some of our customers who have already ordered the WiFi Express are displeased with the delay. Please rest assured that we will provide a full refund to anyone who chooses to cancel their order.
Again, we are deeply sorry for this inconvenience and appreciate your patience as we work diligently to resolve this issue.
Thank you for your support and as always, have fun out there!
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:04 PM
  #10763  
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Originally Posted by PhilipBGreen
thanks for the info I looked at my local track rules an they go by Roar so no outlaw motor for me, I was told the xr10 just stock was fine just wanted to be "sure sure" I'm being told to invest in good radio, batt, charger, an motor so I'm playing the Give an Take game I need more money lol I'm being recommended an airtronics mt4 an icharger duo 308/408 witch is more than double my last radio an charger setup FML I think I need to just get back to having fun, its funny we call these things toy's cause they sure dont cos't like or feel like a toy
I would never recommend a bandit/outlaw motor to anyone looking to get into stock racing. Every company makes them, but as stated above, the are NOT legal at almost all tracks you are going to race at. Plus, its pretty embarrassing to get caught with one, especially if you still aren't winning the race..

Anyway, to answer your questions.
1. The XR10 JuStock is more than enough ESC for any 17.5, 13.5, and 10.5 you are going to find. You just purchased one of the best "Stock" ESC's ever built! Its when you jump into the Mod Motor category where you will start having issues.
2. The Fantom R1 is great. Also consider the offerings from Trinity, Schuur Speed, and Reedy. All will be more than competitive enough if you are just starting in the stock category.

You will probably learn that the little things will effect the power delivery on your stock motor more than ESC, motor, or battery every will be. Things like quality solder joints, connectors, wire gauge, wire distance, etc. is what most people neglect to optimize in stock racing.

Oh, and you vehicles weight is like cancer in Stock Racing. Keep it down close to minimum and it will help every aspect of your car.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:38 PM
  #10764  
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Originally Posted by flamingtire
I would never recommend a bandit/outlaw motor to anyone looking to get into stock racing. Every company makes them, but as stated above, the are NOT legal at almost all tracks you are going to race at. Plus, its pretty embarrassing to get caught with one, especially if you still aren't winning the race..

Anyway, to answer your questions.
1. The XR10 JuStock is more than enough ESC for any 17.5, 13.5, and 10.5 you are going to find. You just purchased one of the best "Stock" ESC's ever built! Its when you jump into the Mod Motor category where you will start having issues.
2. The Fantom R1 is great. Also consider the offerings from Trinity, Schuur Speed, and Reedy. All will be more than competitive enough if you are just starting in the stock category.

You will probably learn that the little things will effect the power delivery on your stock motor more than ESC, motor, or battery every will be. Things like quality solder joints, connectors, wire gauge, wire distance, etc. is what most people neglect to optimize in stock racing.

Oh, and you vehicles weight is like cancer in Stock Racing. Keep it down close to minimum and it will help every aspect of your car.
Thank you so much for all this information it feels really good to hear that, I sold what is considered a top level esc for this lil baby so hearing that is just yeah thank you !!! I'm not new to stock I ounce built a radical sc10.2 thing is at the time the cash was flowing in and I just bought stuff with out educating my self or learning a whole lot.
I ended up selling everything an took a year off then fell in love with the quality an driving the sc-r witch I will never sell, this time around I'm asking instead of talking learning an what not, most people believe that the pro's would beat them know matter what they drive so why get caught up in being a consumer or having the newest, instead I'm focusing on really learning How to drive an factually the sc-r an 10.2 are still some of the the lightest an turning the fastest time's at my local track although CJ Greeve's who races a real pro 4 sct drives an sc6 and is pretty unbeatable at time's either way I'm putting driving over hardware this time around, tho I do appreciate good hard ware and brand new even if its old new. whats the roar minimum legal weight limit for stock ? and to be honest beside the rear motor mid motor thing what are thee important differences from aluminum chassis vs carbon composite or carbon fiber ?

yeah I'd def feel foolish if I was caught with an outlaw motor specially if I wasnt supposed to have one lol However I do plan to run stock and mod as the really fast guys do and win, more importantly have More fun !!!

I ran a d4 maxzilla in my last sct an loved it trinity is great, I was at track side recently an Looked at a reedy mach 3 17.5 for the first time an wow the quality was great witch version would I want for sct ? I think it will come down to that or the fr-1. I really appreciate the tips on doing the little things I'm going to follow thru with that motto also witch aluminum parts should I shy away from to keep weight low ? again thanks for answering my ?s means more than you know.

Last edited by PhilipBGreen; 08-08-2016 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:36 PM
  #10765  
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i assume the outlaw motors are "short stack" or have an overall better punch?

There are many guys that own the most expensive electrics that either finish mid table or near last. I don't think most people would care if you ran something like the bandit ...

And on my 2c, your driving and often ESC settings go a long way than say, shaving 40gm in stock. I know a guy that's running a HobbyKing Touring car that was winning mains... someone told me that's a bit embarrassing for everyone else. I said not really, many of the TC are on par with each other... his driving is what matters, not the electrics/how heavy his car is... btw his TC is 1400+ gm

I've seen some guys with the oldest electrics, excessive wiring jobs, cars that are over 5years old but running in the A main. That says something doesn't it?
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Djchow85
i assume the outlaw motors are "short stack" or have an overall better punch?

There are many guys that own the most expensive electrics that either finish mid table or near last. I don't think most people would care if you ran something like the bandit ...

And on my 2c, your driving and often ESC settings go a long way than say, shaving 40gm in stock. I know a guy that's running a HobbyKing Touring car that was winning mains... someone told me that's a bit embarrassing for everyone else. I said not really, many of the TC are on par with each other... his driving is what matters, not the electrics/how heavy his car is... btw his TC is 1400+ gm

I've seen some guys with the oldest electrics, excessive wiring jobs, cars that are over 5years old but running in the A main. That says something doesn't it?
yeah the guy's at my local track said no one would care if it was our typical friday night races but they also said we have alot of event races where id be tech'ed an disqualified. they also said we have a ten amp rule, house rule but sometimes even they do 40amps they said.
for me it sounds like it could become a moral thing so I play by the rules.

your thinking is right on par with how I feel about driving, something told me to get the program card so I could adjust the esc punch an brakes I think Ill grab one, I usually like to stay tighty with wires mostly to appear clean I kinda would like to confess I do have a hard core racer mentality an even tho ill prolly never be paid to drive deep down an In my head I am trying to set my car or sct up Like Im going to be getting paid I think we all do lmao !!! so if there's some little things I can do Ill most likely do it lol I really dont want to sacrafice the few aluminum componet's I have tho so I think I'll wait an see where I stack up, with my last sct I was begin'n to all way's dominate the B and almost always getting bumped to the main witch I won two or three times usually running mid pack and that was all in less than half a season. its been a long time since I raced, my sc-r def steers better than my 10.2 but thats all I really know untill I get back out there it could be a good thing or bad as my 10.2 I could push really hard, I only like the sc-r better because of the build quality plastics and suspension.

Last edited by PhilipBGreen; 08-08-2016 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:16 PM
  #10767  
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Bandit motors have tons more power and RPM than the standard motors.....
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:52 PM
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Default XR8+1900 combo Motor Thermal question

I ran the brand new XR8+1900 ESC motor combo this weekend in my brand new 1/8 Xray buggy with a 15T pinion. Motor thermaled about 8.5 minutes into my 10 minute mains. My question. I left it at its factory motor thermal protection settings (option 2) but I see for thermal protection there are options. Option 1 disabled, option 2 with a 221 degree cutoff and option 3 with a 257 degree cutoff. Is setting 3 safe for the HW 1900 motor or do I need to regear? For reference I know that my final drive ratio is similar as I ran in other 1/8 e buggies with other manufacturers 1900 motors with no heat issue where I would typically see 170 Degree external temp after a 10 minute main. Current total drive ratio with 15T pinion is 10.06/1, If I go to a 14T pinion it is a 10.78/1.
Recommendations?

Last edited by Danger Dietrich; 08-08-2016 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:59 PM
  #10769  
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
Bandit motors have tons more power and RPM than the standard motors.....
Paul
yeah that's what I was told the guy said it was a wild animal compared to spec 17.5s I should also state I was only thinking of useing it in mod since the xr10 just stock is zero'ed out, just wanted to have a lil extra for mod, if I could find a proper quick disconnect I still consider it for mod racing... as I feel more power than 17.5 less power than 13.5 would be perfect !!! for what Im used to
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:27 PM
  #10770  
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Hi all, new here hope someone can help me . I recently purchased a couple of hobbywing quicrun 1060 brushed esc's . I have a few different radios . 2 vintage Ko pro po EX5's one EX7 and a futaba attack . all from the late 80s . they all work with all of my vintage ESC's So have been able to get the hobbywing esc's to work with the futaba attack. I cant get them to calibrate with the EX5s or the EX7 . I was hoping someone had a tip for me. I think i have done everything correctly but i must be missing something .
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