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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 04-10-2016, 04:59 PM
  #10471  
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Originally Posted by eddie7978
No, that would work for 'Stock' racing. I run 'mod' offroad (8.5 turn motors or in that ballpark). I use this one below...it's a little confusing on the name but the 'Stock Spec' esc can use used for 'mod'.

http://www.hobbywingdirect.com/produ...ock-v3-1-black
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Old 04-10-2016, 07:54 PM
  #10472  
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ohh ok yea i plan on doing stock 17.5
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:55 AM
  #10473  
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I had a great experience with HW USAI had a issue with my XR8 sent it in last week and they took care of the problem and sent me a new ESC out the same week Thank you John.
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:07 AM
  #10474  
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Originally Posted by Scottysspeedsho
I had a great experience with HW USAI had a issue with my XR8 sent it in last week and they took care of the problem and sent me a new ESC out the same week Thank you John.
That's good to hear. I bought it new but off of somebody on here vs. an 'authorized dealer'. Still hope HW can help (by me sending it to them for repair if needed), but still hoping somebody on here can diagnose first.
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Old 04-11-2016, 12:57 PM
  #10475  
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Originally Posted by rcnewbie418
Hey guys. Have a v3 Stock Spec esc. I've appeared to have lost reverse/brake. When I calibrate i get neutral (1 beep), throttle (2 beeps) but when i get to reverse, nothing (no colors at all). when i do reverse on my TX the reverse is trying to go, but won't go. the lights on the esc are red/green/red green. I have a 4PLS TX. i've tried messing with the End points (below 100%, above 100%). any thoughts?

Edit: this is on my b5m. I have another stock spec on my D413 and everything works fine. also have a SCT Pro in eb48 also works fine.

I have a video if a Hobbywing tech on here wants to see it. Thx
Check sensor cable or try a different motor.
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Old 04-11-2016, 01:57 PM
  #10476  
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Hi All,
Picked up a barely used Losi 8ight-T 3.0 with (obviously barely used) XeRun SCT PRO. Things have worked fine for the 5-6 times I've run it until yesterday. Now I get no response to throttle and a rapidly flashing red light.

Running for a handful of laps, rolling through a slower section of track and it acts like something is blocking the wheels or gears from turning. I see a rock jump up so I think it's that, but not the case. It quickly deteriorates to not running at all. I can turn the gearboxes and motor freely without blockage or hesitation. Before that, it was visibly the quickest RC off the line and top speed against other high end equipment (everything is quite new and in great condition).

On start up it does the cell detection and beeps with green lights, then straight to rapidly flashing red light. Come to think of it, I ran it briefly earlier in the week and it ran for a short time before cutting off, and I thought it was LVC. I "thought" the fan wasn't running and didn't want to risk damage so I ran my other vehicles. When checked, fan is running fine (just too loud and too bright to see at the track).

Have tried the following with no change in behavior;

1) Different RX/TX.
2) Re-program with the box.
3) Re-calibrate RX (got the 3 acknowledgements for a couple goes, but at the end only get setting for full and brake).
4) Checked the RX wire for any breakage/cuts.
5) Different sensor wire.
6) Hmm, the last thing I did on the previous weekend was a software update on the box/computer with a sync/update on the ESC?
7) Set LVC to None.
8) Upgraded ESC firmware.
9) Different battery.

Observations;
No response to Sensor wire "plug" connection to the ESC seems weak, as in not hard to pull it out, but it stays in and it was in when it stopped. The steering servo would do 1 or 2 slight twitches without touching steering. A couple times when trying the throttle it went into full throttle on it's own, requiring shut off.
Update: Now the audible beeps have stopped during cell detection and Throttle range setting. And something is interfering with the Servo, it "creeps" and centers randomly (slowly).

Still to try: Another battery, manually set LVC. <== These were attempted with no success.

Any thoughts, suggestions, similar behavior?

Appreciate any time or knowledge. I'm scratching my head.

Thanks.

Last edited by dylantscott; 04-12-2016 at 01:00 AM. Reason: Tried more things!!
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:48 PM
  #10477  
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Originally Posted by eddie7978
ohh ok yea i plan on doing stock 17.5
The "Stock Spec" is a terrific ESC. It can handle WAY more power then you will probably ever push through it. But, the best thing about that version is the adjustability it offers. You can perfectly tailor it to your car/track/driving style and really "tune" it to what you need. Plus, if you ever decide to run a mod motor you don't need to buy another ESC.

However, If you are on a budget I would go with the XR10 JuStock. It will be perfect for 17.5 (and a bit faster) and still offers a good deal of parameters you can adjust. Just don't drop a mod motor in and expect it to last
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:38 PM
  #10478  
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I have the Hobbywing Xerun V3.1 + Motor Xerun V10 G2 7.5t. I run this in my 1/10th buggy and am very happy with it. I use this primary for racing.

I have set the lvc set at 3.3V (with program box). Last week I was reading the last recorded temperatures and lowest voltage of my esc with the program box and saw that my lowest recorded voltage was 5.5v. How is this possible? Why did my esc not shutoff?

I have changed the lvc now to 6.6v. Hope I did not damage my lipos.
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by NielsVV
I have the Hobbywing Xerun V3.1 + Motor Xerun V10 G2 7.5t. I run this in my 1/10th buggy and am very happy with it. I use this primary for racing.

I have set the lvc set at 3.3V (with program box). Last week I was reading the last recorded temperatures and lowest voltage of my esc with the program box and saw that my lowest recorded voltage was 5.5v. How is this possible? Why did my esc not shutoff?

I have changed the lvc now to 6.6v. Hope I did not damage my lipos.
FYI you don't really "hurt" a lipo if the voltage gets too low (well, depending on how low you go). What happens is the internal resistance in the pack increases to a point where a charger physically can't "push" enough power back into the pack. The charger will keep trying to shove amperage in, the pack gets hot, pack ignites, scary smoke and panic ensues. That is why a majority of lipo fires happen during charging.

If the battery charged back up without a problem I wouldn't worry about it.

I switched all my ESC's back to auto-detect. It just seems to work more reliably than a manual setting.
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:28 AM
  #10480  
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Ok, thanks. Will change it to auto to.
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:39 PM
  #10481  
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Does anyone have a Hobbywing XR8 pro paired up with a orion vst2 690 1900kv motor? I just got mine all soldered up and have a terrible cog at first. I have tried multiple sensor wires, set my end points, programmed it over and over, checked my solder joint..... if i unplug the sensor wire it runs smooth with no cogging but i dont want to run sensorless
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:07 AM
  #10482  
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Anyone know where I can buy a 120a V2.1 replacement case?

I see them listed on their site but don't see it for sale.
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by NielsVV
I have the Hobbywing Xerun V3.1 + Motor Xerun V10 G2 7.5t. I run this in my 1/10th buggy and am very happy with it. I use this primary for racing.

I have set the lvc set at 3.3V (with program box). Last week I was reading the last recorded temperatures and lowest voltage of my esc with the program box and saw that my lowest recorded voltage was 5.5v. How is this possible? Why did my esc not shutoff?

I have changed the lvc now to 6.6v. Hope I did not damage my lipos.
I believe the ESC needs to see a voltage level below your set point more than one reading sample (i.e. say three times) before it considers it to be a LVC situation. Where as the recorded data (5.5V in your case) is just a min. sample reading, which is always updated as the ESC is on.

I've noticed the exact same thing in my V3.1 where the recorded min. voltage is below the set LVC, but I have no problems during my run.

I wouldn't worry about it to much, as long as you are not tripping the LVC.

Also, the V3.1 is suppose to be set at a total battery voltage for LVC, not per cell. So if as you say, you had it at 3.3V, that was for the entire pack, and it wouldn't have shut-off. Maybe I'm just misreading what you wrote.
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:43 AM
  #10484  
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Does anybody have a good setup for boost/turbo for the hobbywing V3.1 esc with a V10 6.5 in a D413 (with a focus to increase straightaway speed)? I race on a low-medium grip, medium sized outdoor clay track, and currently have a 24 tooth pinion with the stock 72 tooth spur, and at the end of a race the motor temperature (from the internal data logger) is approximately 105 degrees Celsius. I am thinking this is way too hot, and it would probably be better to gear down a couple teeth and add boost/turbo to get more speed out of the motor. Is it possible to mimic a 5.5 motor using appropriate values for the punch, boost, turbo, etc? Does anybody have a good, fast esc setup that allows a 6.5 to perform like a 5.5?

Cheers,

Mark
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:50 AM
  #10485  
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Originally Posted by RC10B4_Mafco
Does anybody have a good setup for boost/turbo for the hobbywing V3.1 esc with a V10 6.5 in a D413 (with a focus to increase straightaway speed)? I race on a low-medium grip, medium sized outdoor clay track, and currently have a 24 tooth pinion with the stock 72 tooth spur, and at the end of a race the motor temperature (from the internal data logger) is approximately 105 degrees Celsius. I am thinking this is way too hot, and it would probably be better to gear down a couple teeth and add boost/turbo to get more speed out of the motor. Is it possible to mimic a 5.5 motor using appropriate values for the punch, boost, turbo, etc? Does anybody have a good, fast esc setup that allows a 6.5 to perform like a 5.5?

Cheers,

Mark
Dear mark

Please send me an email at [email protected]
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