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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 03-01-2016, 02:21 PM
  #10336  
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Originally Posted by 55Guy
Thanks for feed back I have a fan ordered. i will be taking the drag brake to 10% or less. I will be checking the timing in the esc. I am a little clue less on this but i will start reading and figure it out. I will have to look in to what % timing the marks are on the back of the peak motor. just has marks no numbers.


thanks Flamingtire here is what i am running
ESC hobbywing Xerun V3.1 120A
motor Peak 6.5T
ESC to motor the wire is 13ga
ESC to battery is 12ga
the battery is 2S lipo 4600 70C
Your Welcome!

In post #10328 - flamingtire suggested checking your sensor wire - if you have one, I Googled your motor, you do.

I would like to follow that up with this tip (applies to everybody running sensored setups)... get yourself a sensor tester - all the one's I found are GT Power units. Some are sold under different names, Atomik, Integy, etc. but they're all GT Power units under the hood - see attached. The warranty slip says to goto Atomik's website to register it - funny didn't buy it from them

Lots of peeps sell them, this is the best price I could find... http://www.ebay.com/itm/251799383718...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - quick 'n' easy way to make sure all the sensors in your motor are working correctly.

Has a 9v battery inside, run a sensor cable from your motor to the tester, turn it on & slowly rotate your motor's shaft by hand. If all's well the lights will come on in sequence - easy to follow instructions show how to do it.

Hope that helps
Peace...
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Last edited by MDK_187; 03-06-2016 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 03-01-2016, 02:27 PM
  #10337  
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I've used mainly the 2cap on the v2.1. I only started having bugs with the ESC in indoor as carpet indoor puts more stress on my buggy vs outdoor (I hardly do many stacks in outdoor) plus how I drive in Indoor is obviously different. Shouldn't be any issues using the 2cap.
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:27 PM
  #10338  
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Thanks for the ideas and the links for information and I will test motor / sensor. What started out playing with toy cars in back yard with my three boys has grown to trying to race and go fast. But dang it sure is fun. Thanks every body Bill
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:14 PM
  #10339  
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Originally Posted by 55Guy
Thanks for feed back I have a fan ordered. i will be taking the drag brake to 10% or less. I will be checking the timing in the esc. I am a little clue less on this but i will start reading and figure it out. I will have to look in to what % timing the marks are on the back of the peak motor. just has marks no numbers.


thanks Flamingtire here is what i am running
ESC hobbywing Xerun V3.1 120A
motor Peak 6.5T
ESC to motor the wire is 13ga
ESC to battery is 12ga
the battery is 2S lipo 4600 70C
Okay, you've got good equipment, so no worries there.

Too much Timing in the ESC won't really "hurt" it, but it could damage the motor. You would notice the motor temps being noticeable higher than the ESC.

Most companies motor timing (the marks on the back of the can) max out around 60 degrees. A few companies (Trinity for example) have a few motors that allow 80 degrees, but that's not the norm. The "traditional" mean factory timing is between 30 and the 40 degrees, which is plenty for a 6.5. I run between 20 or 30 degrees on my mod motors. High timing just raises the power curve and overall RPM, but lowers runtime and increases heat.
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:31 PM
  #10340  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I think the logic here applies for adding more caps in general:

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html


This from novak looks good too:

http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/17

I got a HW V3.1 coming in that I couldn't pass up at the price, so it will go in a 4wd 1/10 buggy. I am thinking of getting either the 4 pack cap you have shown or maybe the Reedy one with the heatsinks, curious which is better.
Thanks for the great info!

The Castle site seemed more like they were just interested in selling you they're product, rather than explaining what the benefits are - JMO.

I found the Novak site to be much more useful from the theory standpoint, I bookmarked it for further reading.

In the end I decided to order the HW quad bank a couple hours ago, primarily because it's designed to be used with the model of ESC I have. Also if you look on the bottom of the PCB there's additional components, there's info on Novak's site about them.

I'm thinking they help to distribute the load equally among all four caps rather than the one closest to the ESC taking the brunt of it. But that's just a theory for now, still need to do more reading.

Something to keep in mind about cap banks...
There's a lot of variable's. For example, HW has two different quad cap banks, the one I posted a pick of and another that looks exactly the same except that it has 4x 330f 16v caps with red writing on top of them (HobbyPartz sells them) rather than the blue writing found on the 4x 470f cap bank. May seem trivial, but trust me, it makes a big diff.

Wildcat1971 mentioned the "Reedy" 4-cap setup. TA actually has three cap banks... the twin with heatsink that another member mentioned, 3-cap & 4-cap. Only thing I don't like about those is they don't tell you what the value of the caps are - unless I missed something.

Nuff yakin
Peace
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Last edited by MDK_187; 03-06-2016 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:27 PM
  #10341  
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Default SCTpro loss of power and cut out - solved -

After two years of good service my sct pro came to have a loss of power and a cut out after only 5-6 min ride.
esc was warm (fan work well ) and the trouble came with any of my lipo.

so i disassemble it and change the thermal tape between the fets and the heatsink
problem seems to be solved.

also notice the poor quality of the case , wires and switch.
I change the switch by a 1/8 xerun,
isolate the wires (rx and switch),
and redo gaskets (case and sensor) with silicon.

the all things for something like 15 bucks... and now it works pretty well

hope it can help
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Old 03-02-2016, 12:19 AM
  #10342  
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Originally Posted by Cain
good stuff. I am looking at either the novak cap, the one with the PCB board or something like the reedy or HW 4 cap unit. any idea on if the board does something good I guess?
Cain,
Can't speak for the Novak or Reedy units, but on the HW 4-cap unit I provided a pic of in post #10326 the PCB board has surface mount components on the bottom of it (see attached pic) that are not on the 2-cap PCB that came with my XeRun v2.1

As for what they do, I'm going to venture a guess they help to distribute the load equally among all 4-caps & help with filtering?? Still have to do more research to find out for sure what they're for.

Meantime, follow the link to Novak's site that you provided in post #10333, they talk about those components - at least the one's that are on they're cap module anyways. Logically speaking, you would think the one's on the HW unit would be performing a similar function.

As I mentioned in another post, went with the HW 4-cap unit seen in the attached pic because it was designed to be used with the model ESC I have.

Hope that helps
Peace
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Last edited by MDK_187; 03-05-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:12 AM
  #10343  
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Originally Posted by 55Guy
Thanks for feed back I have a fan ordered. i will be taking the drag brake to 10% or less. I will be checking the timing in the esc. I am a little clue less on this but i will start reading and figure it out. I will have to look in to what % timing the marks are on the back of the peak motor. just has marks no numbers.


thanks Flamingtire here is what i am running
ESC hobbywing Xerun V3.1 120A
motor Peak 6.5T
ESC to motor the wire is 13ga
ESC to battery is 12ga
the battery is 2S lipo 4600 70C
Bill,
The Atomik-Venom motor I got is the same way, just has marks on it, came with the pointer centered.

Instructions say that timing can be adjusted by loosening the three screws (on the end cap) and rotating it. Rotating the end cap counterclockwise adds timing which increases the motor's RPM. That's not to say that yours works the same, just trying to help.

Only way I can think of to tell for sure is too use a KV/RPM meter - attached a pic of mine - loosen the three screws just enough so you can rotate the end cap, run the motor using the throttle trim on your Tx (DO NOT run it full speed with the trigger while it's unloaded) & measure the RPM's.

Once you have a baseline then you can rotate the end cap clockwise / counter-clock-wise to see which way cause's the motor's RPM's to go up.

Please note: the KV/RPM meter won't tell you anything about the timing (in degree's); it only tells you the motors actual KV rating & the RPM's at a given throttle setting.

Hope that helps
Peace
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Last edited by MDK_187; 03-05-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:47 AM
  #10344  
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Thanks I think i have a fighting chance to get my SC5M going and not over heating.

I have another hobbywing question ; my youngest son and I are ready to start putting a buggy together. It will have a 17.5T motor. I Have two ESC to chose from we already have. I don't know what the main differences are between them or if one is a lot better to use. one is a used hobbywing just stock club spec ESC the other is a new hobbbywing xerun XR10 just stock. They both say they have fixed timing at O.
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Old 03-02-2016, 10:02 AM
  #10345  
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Originally Posted by 55Guy
Thanks I think i have a fighting chance to get my SC5M going and not over heating.

I have another hobbywing question ; my youngest son and I are ready to start putting a buggy together. It will have a 17.5T motor. I Have two ESC to chose from we already have. I don't know what the main differences are between them or if one is a lot better to use. one is a used hobbywing just stock club spec ESC the other is a new hobbbywing xerun XR10 just stock. They both say they have fixed timing at O.
Use the XR-10 Esc
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Old 03-02-2016, 05:29 PM
  #10346  
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I'm using a HW V2.1 esc as I previously mentioned, How do I check the output voltage of the Castle 10a BEC? Do I just unplug it from the receiver with radio and car turned on and try to safely check it with a voltmeter on the black and red wires of the receiver connector? Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:59 PM
  #10347  
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will the V10 G2 17.5 motor going to be release? if yes, can you tell us when.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 55Guy
Thanks I think i have a fighting chance to get my SC5M going and not over heating.

I have another hobbywing question ; my youngest son and I are ready to start putting a buggy together. It will have a 17.5T motor. I Have two ESC to chose from we already have. I don't know what the main differences are between them or if one is a lot better to use. one is a used hobbywing just stock club spec ESC the other is a new hobbbywing xerun XR10 just stock. They both say they have fixed timing at O.
Okay, so the big difference is that the JuStock is rated for 45 amp continuous with 260 amp burst. The new XR10 is rated for 60 amp continuous with 380 amp burst. You will only really feel that if you have maximized every aspect of your system, but it doesn't hurt to an ESC that can handle more than you can give it.

The XR10 also has more programmable features, such as punch control, that the JuStock doesn't have.

Either way, they are both perfect for what you are looking to do.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:02 PM
  #10349  
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question for those in the know would a really hot 17.5 like a schuur speed select be held back by a justock xr10.

Been pretty happy with my esc but my motor combinations have been all budget based and wanted to get the best of the best and was wondering if my esc will be a limitng factor vs a better 2.1 or 3.1 hobbywing.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:19 PM
  #10350  
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Thanks I had installed the just stock yester day and was going to sell the xrun 60A one. But I think I will hold on to it so I can try it to compare. Thanks Bill
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