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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 02-28-2016, 06:09 PM
  #10321  
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Originally Posted by Djchow85
Have your ESC hooked up directly to a PC/laptop with the HW software and you can upgrade the the firmware like that.
Ok thanks, I'm guessing I can get the HW software off their website and find the latest firmware.
Also, I have the $10 LED program box, I don't have the $25 LCD box so I don't know if I can load any new software to that?
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:37 PM
  #10322  
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Originally Posted by prosport
After messing with it for 2 days I tried a Novak 8.5 motor that has a built-in sensor cable and the car ran perfect! So I'll buy a new sensor cable for the Viper 5.5 motor and try it again.

Do I just go to the HW website and use a usb cable to download the latest software to the V2.1? What is the name of the latest software?
Not sure the latest firmware for that esc as it is older. Search the model and see what the latest is. Your program card will tell you what version is in it now. The LCD one.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:40 PM
  #10323  
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Originally Posted by prosport
Ok thanks, I'm guessing I can get the HW software off their website and find the latest firmware.
Also, I have the $10 LED program box, I don't have the $25 LCD box so I don't know if I can load any new software to that?
You should really invest in the LCD program box. It is much easier to do everything. Don't think you can do it through the other program box.
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:05 AM
  #10324  
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Will do, thanks.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:53 AM
  #10325  
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Hello, i have a problem i cant find any answers for. My car worked fine all day until it just shut off. I had the car stopped for a minute, it was still on, and then i give it some throttle as i was going to continue driving it just stops. So i pick it up, and it starts again like normal. Gave it some throttle and steering. All sermed fine. I put the car down and i come like 2-3meters and it shut off again.

Anyone with the same problem? Something i can fix?
Thanks in advance! Cheers//
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:04 PM
  #10326  
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Hey guys...
Hopefully somebody can help me out here. Have plenty of experience with sensorless BL setups, but this is my first venture into a sensored setup.

Recently picked up a XeRun 120A-SD v2.1 speedo for my Stam 4x4 - running Atomik Red 540 9.5T-3610Kv motor (see attached), both purchased NIB.

Not a racer, just wanted smoother throttle response at low speeds than the sensorless systems provide. All my HW ESC's - 5x Seakings + SL-60a, SC10(70A) & SC8(120A) car/truck ESC's have the caps built in/built on.

The XeRun speedo came with an external twin 470f cap bank, there's also a quad 470f version available (see attached pix) info bout both is here... http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?i...er_attr=5758.0

My question is... what if anything is the advantage to using the quad cap bank vs the twin cap bank??

Thanks in advance for help with my question.

Last edited by MDK_187; 03-05-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 06:54 PM
  #10327  
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I went with a hobbywing xerun v3.1 120A . I have it in a sc5m we run on indoor dirt track it is pushing a 6.5 turn motor. the motor came off track at 102 but the esc shut down I have it set for 150 shut down it temped 152. I do not run a fan yet I just ordered one today. I was running no bust. I was running 45% drag brake track on tight track. Do u have any suggestion what to look for or what I may doing wrong. Thanks Bill
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:18 PM
  #10328  
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Originally Posted by Andy63
Hello, i have a problem i cant find any answers for. My car worked fine all day until it just shut off. I had the car stopped for a minute, it was still on, and then i give it some throttle as i was going to continue driving it just stops. So i pick it up, and it starts again like normal. Gave it some throttle and steering. All sermed fine. I put the car down and i come like 2-3meters and it shut off again.

Anyone with the same problem? Something i can fix?
Thanks in advance! Cheers//
What kind of esc/motor do you have?

Check the following:
Battery voltage (esc might be going into low-voltage cut-off)
Sensor wire (if it has one)

Let me know
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:25 PM
  #10329  
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Originally Posted by 55Guy
I went with a hobbywing xerun v3.1 120A . I have it in a sc5m we run on indoor dirt track it is pushing a 6.5 turn motor. the motor came off track at 102 but the esc shut down I have it set for 150 shut down it temped 152. I do not run a fan yet I just ordered one today. I was running no bust. I was running 45% drag brake track on tight track. Do u have any suggestion what to look for or what I may doing wrong. Thanks Bill
First off, that's a LOT of drag-brake! Braking in general creates a lot of heat in RC systems.
What size wires are running to the motor? Too small can cause heat as well.

The fan will obviously help, but there is probably still another issue. Did you happen to temp the motor? Running a 2s battery I assume?
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:53 PM
  #10330  
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Originally Posted by 55Guy
I went with a hobbywing xerun v3.1 120A . I have it in a sc5m we run on indoor dirt track it is pushing a 6.5 turn motor. the motor came off track at 102 but the esc shut down I have it set for 150 shut down it temped 152. I do not run a fan yet I just ordered one today. I was running no bust. I was running 45% drag brake track on tight track. Do u have any suggestion what to look for or what I may doing wrong. Thanks Bill
Why the heck are you running w/out a fan?? Especially while racing

And... flamingtire is right, 45% drag brake is WAY too much, default = 10%

I attached a couple docs to help you out... one explains the various settings & provides recommended starting points. The other shows the programmable items with factory defaults in black.

NOTE: the default [ESC] timing is WAY too much. I run 7.5 on my sensorless setups, NEVER have [ESC] heat issues even on hot summer days.

FYI: HW support also told me to run less than 10 in the ESC - if your motor has adjustable (aka mechanical) timing, then it prob starts @15 ~ 30 - add that to the 26.25 ESC timing and you've got a very hot very unhappy motor.

Hope that helps you out.
Peace
>
>

Last edited by MDK_187; 03-05-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:51 PM
  #10331  
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Thanks for feed back I have a fan ordered. i will be taking the drag brake to 10% or less. I will be checking the timing in the esc. I am a little clue less on this but i will start reading and figure it out. I will have to look in to what % timing the marks are on the back of the peak motor. just has marks no numbers.


thanks Flamingtire here is what i am running
ESC hobbywing Xerun V3.1 120A
motor Peak 6.5T
ESC to motor the wire is 13ga
ESC to battery is 12ga
the battery is 2S lipo 4600 70C
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Old 03-01-2016, 01:46 AM
  #10332  
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Originally Posted by flamingtire
What kind of esc/motor do you have?

Check the following:
Battery voltage (esc might be going into low-voltage cut-off)
Sensor wire (if it has one)

Let me know
Thank you so much for answering! I use Hobbywing v3.1 and hobbywing v10 5.5t.
I will try your suggestions and get back to you. Hopefully it helps!
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:56 AM
  #10333  
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Originally Posted by MDK_187
Hey guys...
Hopefully somebody can help me out here. Have plenty of experience with sensorless BL setups, but this is my first venture into a sensored setup.

Recently picked up a XeRun 120A-SD v2.1 speedo for my Stam 4x4 - running Atomik Red 540 9.5T-3610Kv motor (see attached), both purchased NIB.

Not a racer, just wanted smoother throttle response at low speeds than the sensorless systems provide. All my HW ESC's - 5x Seakings + SL-60a, SC10(70A) & SC8(120A) car/truck ESC's have the caps built in/built on.

The XeRun speedo came with an external twin 470f cap bank, there's also a quad 470f version available (see attached pix) info bout both is here... http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?i...er_attr=5758.0

My question is... what if anything is the advantage to using the quad cap bank vs the twin cap bank??

Thanks in advance for help with my question.
I think the logic here applies for adding more caps in general:

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html

... Cars/Trucks: With their high torque requirements – going from 0 to 100% throttle isn't easy on controllers or batteries - RC cars and trucks put enormous loads on brushless power systems. ...
This from novak looks good too:

http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/17

During normal operation of any high-current radio controlled speed control, the PWM control of the motor power produces an alternating voltage waveform (or ripple) onto the battery voltage. The amount of ripple current is dependent on the inductance of the motor. This means that a lower turn motor will produce a higher value ripple current.

A power capacitor (Novak PowerCap or Power Trans-Cap as shown below) is used to smooth this ripple out so that the average voltage available to the ESC is close to the battery voltage. This not only protects the electronic components inside the ESC, but also increases the partial throttle motor RPMs.
I got a HW V3.1 coming in that I couldn't pass up at the price, so it will go in a 4wd 1/10 buggy. I am thinking of getting either the 4 pack cap you have shown or maybe the Reedy one with the heatsinks, curious which is better.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:25 AM
  #10334  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I think the logic here applies for adding more caps in general:

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html



This from novak looks good too:

http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/17



I got a HW V3.1 coming in that I couldn't pass up at the price, so it will go in a 4wd 1/10 buggy. I am thinking of getting either the 4 pack cap you have shown or maybe the Reedy one with the heatsinks, curious which is better.
I used the reedy 4 cap. my caps never got warm in the wheeler, so unsure what the heat sinks are for. smaller caps charge and discharge faster (in general). several smaller caps are better than 1 big cap. I love the reedy caps, btw, the wire is much thicker than the HW wire and less prone to failing.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:02 AM
  #10335  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I used the reedy 4 cap. my caps never got warm in the wheeler, so unsure what the heat sinks are for. smaller caps charge and discharge faster (in general). several smaller caps are better than 1 big cap. I love the reedy caps, btw, the wire is much thicker than the HW wire and less prone to failing.
good stuff. I am looking at either the novak cap, the one with the PCB board or something like the reedy or HW 4 cap unit. any idea on if the board does something good I guess?
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