HECO

I have a futaba system. I guess calibration on all futabas are in reverse

bcane98

iTrader: (21)

I need to replace the switch on my XERUN 150A... the lip on the slider broke off, so I need to use a small plastic tool to turn it on. Any suggestions before I crack the case open?

kyok2

iTrader: (32)

My 150a is cutting out if I land a jump hard it will have to sit for a second like its rebooting up then it will go again. Any ideas what it could be.

neverfixed

iTrader: (1)

So to follow up. Hobbywing engineers rooted the problem (non defective) to running the motor with too much or not enough load which could be from poor gear meshing. Because I purchased the motor recently they will replace it for free this one time only. Good customer service and a quick response time earns a two thumbs up for me. Thank you Hobbywing!

cttech455

iTrader: (10)

That's great to hear I've been running an 8.5 v10 for over a year with no problems. In my case the hobbywing v10 replaced an 8.5 viper motor that smoked 3 minutes into a run. The motor was supposed have a 6 month warranty but only lasted a few weeks and viper pointed the fingers at me when I sent it back. The V10 ran cooler, made more power, and is still going strong in the same vehicle with the same gearing as the motor it replaced.

TeamOSG

iTrader: (25)

I did have it set up in the car with a batt and powered on. Also, now when I hook it up to my cpu via usb, all I get is solid squares.

Ulch

iTrader: (3)

I had a tough week. I had a 2600 kv mamba monster 2 system that was too fast in my new Mugen Truggy, so replaced it with a hobbywing xerun system 1800kv that i had in my E-revo. It used a 16t pinion and it made a funny noise after 10 minutes of running. I stopped immediately and found it smelled burned. Temp gun had it at 225-230 degrees. Is this normal?

My warranty is up as I purchased it a couple of weeks past the 6 month warranty. Does anyone know if I can get it fixed for cheap or should I just by a new motor? The motor had hardly any run time on it and I am running the same hobbywing setup in my e-buggy. The motor always runs cool in the e-buggy. can HW not run in Truggy set ups?

also burned up a orion motor in another e-buggy I had. The orion always ran hotter than my HW e-buggy. does HW make the orion motor too? I know they make the esc.
Thanks for any advice...ulch

COP4

I wanted to post this for any other guys who are or in the near future may have problems with their Hobbywing Xerun 150 amp ESC.

First off, the vehicle I have been working with is a 3903 series E-Maxx 16.8v. Well, it was once a dual brushed truck, but that was ditched for a brushless motor and a Hobbywing Ezrun WP SC8 120 amp ESC. First off, this is an excellent ESC! I used it for 4S power and it never once gave me any issues. Out of the box, installed and calibrated it ran my brushless motor without ESC programming. Do I recommend not programming? Not at all, but it was just a reference to how versatile that ESC is. I programmed it and ran it through all settings without fail. The low voltage cutoff could be set at 3.2v without issues. Soon, I was getting the itch to move up to 5S power. Therefore, the ESC had to be replaced, but will NOT be sold.

Moving on.
The meat of my current setup now includes the following:

- Brushless (same as I had with the WP SC8 120 amp ESC) Tacon 4074 2150 Kv motor, capable up to 5S power. 68t Spur gear and 21t pinion gear.
- Hobbywing Xerun 150 amp ESC (Blue)
- SPC Racing 2S 70C 7200 mah & SPC Racing 3S 70C 7200 mah batteries ran in series to get me a 5S power system. These are very powerful and hold an extremely well matched cell voltage.

Anyways, here are a few things I have encountered immediately after installation.

It did run out of the box....however, all of 10-15 seconds after the first throttle input. I calibrated it as per the instructions, but that alone was not enough.

I first cut back punch control to level 5, lowered the timing from the factory set 15* to level 2 (whatever degree that is), brake drag to 0%, reverse to 50%, brake force to 75% (E-Maxx is heavy), initial brake force to 0%, low voltage cut off at 3.2v (factory setting) and Lipo setting on Auto (factory setting). All the other settings were left at factory settings which are usually fine and don't need to be adjusted.

Anyways, these setting changes still did not correct the issue. I first thought I had a defective ESC. With a little bit of research I came up with two other changes to try before I had to send it in for a RMA replacement.

I changed the low voltage cutoff to 3.0v and that fixed the issue! I guess the draw sucks down the voltage in the batteries more than 3.2v or right at it. It is either that or the ESC's low voltage cutoff detection does not read exactly like it should. Regardless, the change from 3.2v to 3.0v low voltage cutoff change fixed the issue.

I had sent this issue to Hobbywing, but had already figured out after their Customer service support representative, John responded back.
He advised to change the low voltage cutoff setting to either 3.2v or 3.0v. He also advised to change the timing setting to 0* for any brushless setup above 2S power. He stated this would preserve the life of the motor and the ESC. The higher the timing will net you a bit more power, but in turn, it will also make the motor run hot and possibly burn up the ESC. He also stated to switch the Lipo setting from Auto to the Lipo power I would be using. The Auto setting still worked and detected all 5 cells of my batteries, but I changed it to read 5 cells for safe measures. John further advised to utilize the punch control settings between 1-3. I set mine to level 6, which is my preference.

I could not leave well enough alone so I tried out punch level 9 and max timing. All I can say is, WOW! Crazy powerful and very fast! I have no need to keep it at those levels so, I dialed timing back to 0* and punch to level 6.

I hope this post helps others who have issues with this ESC. Hobbywing's customer support seems to be friendly, helpful and respond very fast. Their tech services seem to be very kind, supportive of their products and have the desire to help one get to the root of the issue and solve problems. Thumbs up to these guys!

James

dirtbikekid33

can anyone tell me the correct size of bearings for the 4700 1/10 motor are I got
5/13/4 and 5/16/4.

strafe

iTrader: (2)

Mine is not a technical problem but a very large service problem with falconsekido.com. I placed an order with next day delivery and payed the $72 dollar. I then waited for any confirmation of shipment with no response. I followed up with e-mail and a telephone call yesterday with no response. Today I again followed up as my order still said unfulfilled. After my second email to falconsekido.com, I received a shipping notice finally.... They had shipped my order with the $20 shipping method. This is now going to be a total delay on my 1 day order of 7 days. They offered to refund the difference but with zero justification and zero support. I have been nothing but polite up until this point and find this to be beyond bad service from a company who previously had a very good reviews all around.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Switch is turning off and back on, replace the switch. My 120a did this Sat. You can also test it by cutting the switch off and twisting the red and black wires together, if you run it and it does not shut off it is the switch.
Paul

COP4

This would severely upset me as well. I would send
[email protected] an email regarding this order transaction to see if they would offer some assistance. If I paid for 1 day shipping costs, and they did this to me, I would be very upset as well. I mean falconsekido is Hobbywing's main official USA supplier of their products. I'm certain they would help rectify a better solution than what falconsekido had to offer to you.

I hope you get treated fairly and take care of this for you!!

Producer

Hi guys! I am new here. Desperately seeking some help from the pros for my freshly built yeti kit. So i've completed the kit, dropped in the new motor and esc combo and cogging happened. Well i am not sure if it really cogging/stutter but i know its not natural. Ive uploaded a video on youtube, please check it out, see if you guys had the same experience.

When i squeeze the trigger slightly/softly, the pinion would move back and forth but its not turning. I have to give a slight push in order to make it move. When i squeeze more, it would than start turning as per usual. I have full control over the speed i.e. faster or slower. As soon as it stops and you want it to move again, the stutter happens again.

At first i thought I've over tighten some screws, so i took it out of the housing to check, it will still behave as per my explanation. No contact point with anything at all!

Also to note that, I've also tried testing the motor only by itself not connected to anything except the pinion gear. Still the same effect.

Some folks are is saying that my motor is running in sensorless mode even though I've connected the sensor wire. So we are suspecting either the port or the cable is faulty.

Below are the information of my setup.
-Stock kit gearing 32p 64T spur gear,didnt change anything in transmision
-Stock 16T pinion gear
-Hitec 7955TG Servo
-Turnigy Nanotech 5300mah 2S2P 30-60C discharge
-Hobbywing Xerun SCT Combo 3400KV + 120A ESC

Here is the video i made.
worldwideweb.youtube.com/watch?v=ar4LI1uhos0

Thanks in advance!

jakeg1973

iTrader: (20)

Would this motor be to big for a tekno et48 truggy

bstadtler

Your mesh does not look right but that's probably not your problem.
Someone will probably be familiar with your problem.