FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Lower it to 2.8-3.0

R1Joel

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a bec problem to me. Overloading the internal bec and browing out. I had the same problem with a Castle esc.
What servo are you running?

tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

Can someone tell me the difference between a 10.5T XERUN V10 Competition Brushless Motor and 10.5T XERUN Bandit Brushless Motor - Outlaw Edition

I want a motor I can use for Mod 2WD buggy

Thanks

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

If you are worried about ROAR Rules don't buy the Bandit. larger rotor more torque.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Like pete said lower the lvc to 2.8 or 3.0.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

I had to totally disable my HW BEC in both my 4wd SC and 1/10 4wd buggy. Even when I lowered the BEC to 2.8v per cell, I was having problems in the middle to end of the race. I think the BEC in the HW ESCs are just too sensitive. Sometimes when you pin the throttle hard and are pulling from a 2S battery with a big 4 pole motor like in Mod 4wd SC, you can spike the voltage below the cell minimum for just a fraction of a second . . . especially when you get about half way in to the batteries capacity. In my case when I came back to the pits and charged that battery, I still had 3000 mAh of a 6600 mAh battery remaining, so I know I wasn't truly in jeopardy of going below the minimum cell voltage. That and my previous ESC (Tekin RX8) with the same motor and battery would easily make it 10 minutes without going in to LVC. So, to me it seems like the HW ESC senses that split second burst that drops a cell below 3.2v and thus immediately goes in to low voltage cut-off. If you're a racer and rarely run more than 8-10 minutes at a time, you should be fine with the BEC disabled.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

I have never had a brown out issue even running the 4700kv in a ten minute main.

BryanAZ

iTrader: (2)

I am not sure. I will check tomorrow. What should it be set at?

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

What it needs to be at. You could go 2.8 need be.

Dirtburner2.0

Hey thanks for the quick reply pete. I turned auto calculate off, set the lvc to none just to see if that was the problem. Tried a different reciever. but the problem still persists. No beeps when I plug the batteries in but I get the green light. Then solid red when I push forward or reverse and no motor response but I get servo movement. Am I just missing something simple here?

trutledge83

Savox 1256

trutledge83

Will 2.8 or 3.0 Hurt my lipos?

suzukipro

iTrader: (33)

Had an SCTpro fail on me Sat in my sons car. I wasn't sure at the time so I tried everything I could to rule it out today and ended up replacing it with a spare RX8 I had. My 7yr old son ran the SCTpro / hobbywing 4000Kv combo in a Tekno SCT410 in sportsman class for the past 6 months with the radio travel limited to 27% which is about on par with the speed of the other vehicles in the class where we race. Would limiting the throttle travel somehow strain the SCTpro after continued use? Both the motor and ESC
always ran very cool rarely getting to 130°F after back to back batteries. The ESC will calibrate with the radio and the LED's indicate it knows when forward and reverse inputs are given, but the motor won't turn.

I re-soldered the motor leads and even tried a 9.5 motor I had and nothing worked short of replacing the esc

My gut thinks my son may have tried to install a battery when I wasn't around
and reversed the polarity, but he insists he didn't.

I have limited experience with Hobbywing and though someone may have some insight with this issue.

Thanks,

R1Joel

iTrader: (1)

Could be your issue. Savox are known to draw alot of current. What you are describing is the exact issue I was having with a Castle esc. I bought Hobbywing to solve it and it worked.
Might need an external bec with your set up.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Hooking it up reversed could have blown something, go here>http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/rma
and start an RMA Process....................