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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 03-06-2015, 06:55 PM
  #8821  
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Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger
Need suggestions/help, I have an xerun 60a 2.1 and a hobbywing 2.0 led program box and after following the proper connection sequence the programming box instantly lights up with just dash marks and stays that way, what am I doing wrong?

This all started because my brakes felt weak so I wanted to program 100% brake power and after the led box didn't work I tried to manually program the esc and it wouldn't go into full program mode I just got three quick green flashes and then nothing. To make matters worse I no longer have reverse so I must have reset the esc to the defaults. The closest I've got to getting the esc into program mode was by allowing all of the red flashes/beeps to cycle (about 12) and right before the point were my esc does the three quick green flashes I let off the set button and then it went straight to only showing red flashes after I hit the set button which I can get up to 5 reds to flash before a new green flashes once then quickly red once, then green twice red once, and finally green three times then red then no lights. For the last series of lights once I hit the initial green light no matter how long I hold the set button or even hit it multiple times changes anything and the green/red cycle I just described happens the same every time.

Sorry if my post is confusing I'd just really like to have some brakes and it's frustrating not being able to program them in. I'm an airplane guy transitioning into cars and love my hobbywing esc's I have in my planes and they have always been a breeze to program.

Thanks in advance,
Paul
Paul..... where are you plugging the box in at? sounds like you're plugging in at the wrong location or reverse polarity.
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:06 PM
  #8822  
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I'm plugging in on the top right, I've also tried the left and even tried taking the red wire out and using a separate battery pack. I have a hobbywing 120a and the programming box works perfect so I'm not sure why my xerun 60a won't work.
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Old 03-07-2015, 01:05 AM
  #8823  
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Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger
I'm plugging in on the top right, I've also tried the left and even tried taking the red wire out and using a separate battery pack. I have a hobbywing 120a and the programming box works perfect so I'm not sure why my xerun 60a won't work.
Top right? are you using a LED program card instead of a LCD program box? Also just to make sure you are using the receiver wire on the speedo.


edit: I just reread your post and seen it says LED. The LED program card will only work with the xerun 60 amp if you have the 508 blinky firmware installed i believe. If it has any boost settings it will not work.
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Old 03-07-2015, 08:40 AM
  #8824  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
if my motor bearings are shot in my 4700 will it make a really loud sound and be almost binding?
I order new ceramic bearings from Boca bearings and hope this fixes it
Pete? What do you think?

When I disconnect the motor the drivetrain is nice n free.
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:48 AM
  #8825  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Pete? What do you think?

When I disconnect the motor the drivetrain is nice n free.
I never heard one with bad bearings. I never had to replace bearings in any motor. Their just like the bearings in the vehicle. I would pull it apart and give them a feel. I would be curious.
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:52 AM
  #8826  
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Originally Posted by Structure26
Had a question about the base of the wires on the Hobbywing ESCs...

In the event that I would have to replace a wire or two on the ESC, would I would be able to cut the shrink wrap and re solder new wire to the posts...? Or are there even posts to solder to underneath the current shrink wrap?

Thanks.
Every Hobbywing I have ever had including the cheap Justock had posts. I'd be very surprised if this one did not.
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Old 03-07-2015, 05:44 PM
  #8827  
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figured out what my problem was, when I went to download the new version of software into my programmer somehow a Monster Truck profile was uploaded and that had A LOT of drag brake in it.

When i went to the hobby shop and we redownloaded the software the right profiles came thru and now my car is perfect.

Whew, I almost bought a new motor, not that's that is a bad thing. Only spent 9 bux at the hobby store today that is a record.
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
figured out what my problem was, when I went to download the new version of software into my programmer somehow a Monster Truck profile was uploaded and that had A LOT of drag brake in it.

When i went to the hobby shop and we redownloaded the software the right profiles came thru and now my car is perfect.

Whew, I almost bought a new motor, not that's that is a bad thing. Only spent 9 bux at the hobby store today that is a record.
Glad you got it figured out.
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:46 PM
  #8829  
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me too!

got Ceramic bearings for the motor on the way for it, so it should be smooth as glass now.
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:03 AM
  #8830  
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I run 1/18 oval with the EZRUN 18 and 25 amp esc's.
I am getting SOLID GREEN AND RED if I stop and no forward or reverse but do have steering.
If I shut it off and turn it back on it is ok for a few laps.
I did notice it cogging trying to go into forward and reverse the race before.
TRIED
1. DIFFERENT MOTOR
2. DIFF RECEIVER
3. BATTERY
4. TURN OFF THERMAL PROTECTION, THE ESC OR MOTOR NEVER GETS WARM
5. SHUT OFF VOLTAGE PROTECTION
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Old 03-08-2015, 06:09 AM
  #8831  
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Originally Posted by HBRob
Every Hobbywing I have ever had including the cheap Justock had posts. I'd be very surprised if this one did not.
Thanks, I'm hoping I don't have to remove the wires but you're right, it would seem to make sense to me that they'd have posts, just in case.
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Old 03-08-2015, 09:12 AM
  #8832  
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Originally Posted by ICEMAN96
I run 1/18 oval with the EZRUN 18 and 25 amp esc's.
I am getting SOLID GREEN AND RED if I stop and no forward or reverse but do have steering.
If I shut it off and turn it back on it is ok for a few laps.
I did notice it cogging trying to go into forward and reverse the race before.
TRIED
1. DIFFERENT MOTOR
2. DIFF RECEIVER
3. BATTERY
4. TURN OFF THERMAL PROTECTION, THE ESC OR MOTOR NEVER GETS WARM
5. SHUT OFF VOLTAGE PROTECTION
Have you tried a new sensor wire?
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Old 03-08-2015, 12:21 PM
  #8833  
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Hi there.

Just received my JS5 just stock combo esc and 17.5 motor. Starting to get everything wired up and I notice that where the wires connect to the motor there appear to be scokets or plugs (for lack of a better term). I also see that three small round gold barrel looking pieces also came witht me kit. The barrel piece does fit over the ends of the wire.

I am wondering if these barrels are to be soldered onto the end of the the wires and then individually plugged onto the motor ? Or should these connection always be soldered?

Or do I just ignor these pieces and solder the directly to the motor ?
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Old 03-08-2015, 12:38 PM
  #8834  
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Originally Posted by ICEMAN96
I run 1/18 oval with the EZRUN 18 and 25 amp esc's.
I am getting SOLID GREEN AND RED if I stop and no forward or reverse but do have steering.
If I shut it off and turn it back on it is ok for a few laps.
I did notice it cogging trying to go into forward and reverse the race before.
TRIED
1. DIFFERENT MOTOR
2. DIFF RECEIVER
3. BATTERY
4. TURN OFF THERMAL PROTECTION, THE ESC OR MOTOR NEVER GETS WARM
5. SHUT OFF VOLTAGE PROTECTION
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Have you tried a new sensor wire?
THEY ARE SENSORLESS. I JUST NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE SOLID GREEN AND RED MEAN, When they are one there is no forward or reverse and stay on when triggered in forward or reverse but steering works
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:29 PM
  #8835  
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So here is my issue.

I have an Xerun V3.0 that I have had for a couple of years. Last night it wigged out. The switch stopped working and it would not power on or off. I could still hold the switch and get it into programming mode. When I plug it in it turns on right away.
There was a slight burned electronic smell. Everything seems to work. I have steering and power. However when I go to full power the throttle will stay there and then drop down to maybe half throttle even though I have not changed the throttle settings.

I am running it with a D4 6.5 in an xray xb4. I actually checked the temp when it came off the track and it was at 115 F. This was the run that it went broke on.

Any help would be appreciated.
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