timritchieblue

iTrader: (4)

I totally agree...took me no less than 15 emails, Atleast 5 just to get RMA #. You did get RMA before shipping, I hope?

bigslashPE

maybe i shouldve asked here. can the Hobbywing 80amp esc handle a 3660 can ,2600kv brushless motor on a 2cell lipo? thanks guys.

Vegatron75

iTrader: (4)

Yeah. I got one. Checked the tracking and it was delivered on the 31st. I'm sure it will be ok.

DriveItLikeYSIT

iTrader: (93)

My HW V3.1 stock spec ESC has an odd error; the steering is working but my motor doesn't. The ESC beeps constantly and the power button is red. A possible cause according to the manual is the input voltage is not in the proper working range; the solution is check voltage of the battery pack. So I checked the lipos voltage & it was normal. I also tried a different lipo but the ESC still beeps. Does anyone know what's causing this error and or how to correct it?

Wolfenstein

I can't really figure out how or why the v3.1 is $100 more than the sct-pro.
Can somebody shed some light on this?
I've read that the sct-pro is for heavier 4x4 sc trucks, but I can't seem to make sense of why an esc half the price with the same 120a rating is better for a heavier truck.
I like that the v3.1 is offered waterproof, but that can't be worth $100

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

The 3.1 has 3 to 4 times the adjustments but it is sensored throughout the whole rpm range of the motor. This is a good thing when it comes to 2 pole motors but 4 pole motors will confuse the rpm sensor and has at times become erratic at full throttle. Hobbywing does not recomend the 3.1 for use with 4 pole motors and has advised everyone not to put them in 4wd SC.
Paul

timritchieblue

iTrader: (4)

I got my reply back from HW....6mo old xerun 150a esc,, non warenty repair. Since I'm a valued customer, I can buy a new one for $76. THANKS HOBBYWING. that's great customer service.

The program button stuck.

ccattie

iTrader: (5)

Hello,

I just bought a new Hobbywing 150a combo for my truggy and I've got some questions. One - the manual shows an on/off switch, but umm, I don't have one dangling off it anywhere. I just have the 3 wires for the motor and the signal/throttle channel line coming off. There is also a port for the motor sensor, but that isn't even in play just yet. So did HW stop incorporating a switch? Is it just hot once I connect up a battery? I didn't want to do that in case something was wack with my what I received and it would cause a problem if I tried to return it. It was brand new and had the tape on the box and the hologram showing it to be authentic. I bought it from a reputable seller as well. So umm, what is up with it? Am I missing a part or is there a button on the ESC itself that I'm just not seeing?

Second question, the throttle channel cable (is that the right name for it?) that goes to the ESC is just too short. Can I just use something like the attached picture? I know cutting it and soldering something is better long term, but I'd like to be driving soon and am still practicing my soldering skills on dummy wires. I'd eventually do it, but just want to know if this would be ok.

-c

brew99

iTrader: (6)

the last 150A I had definitely had a separate switch. I haven't bought one in a couple years though. Are you sure you have an authentic HW product? Secondly, you can use that extender no problem to lengthen the wires

brew99

iTrader: (6)

I'm assuming you tried to recalibrate the esc? Will it connect to the programming box at all?

ccattie

iTrader: (5)

Brew99 - As i said in my initial post, it was from a reputable seller and had the anti counterfeit holograms. I'll probably just return it and have them check the switch before sending me a new one.
-c

ChunkySoup

Hi there,
I am very new to RC Kits and recently built a Tamiya DT-03 Neo Fighter Buggy that is currently running just stock motor and parts. I bought a HobbyWing justock combo over the holidays and it arrived this week. I was in the midst of putting it together but I haven't got a clue as to how to attach the little tiny brass basket type plugs to the wires from the ESC. I also placed a couple on the receiving strip of the motor to see how well they hold and they seem really loose to me.

I apologize if this is a repeat post but I have searched for an hour on here now and have been unable to find out what to do or how to do it.

I am assuming solder is the answer but these baskets fit loose on the wires as well and I don't think solder is going to hold very well. Do I strip back the casing of the wire? Do I solder to the motor as well?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Chunky

DriveItLikeYSIT

iTrader: (93)

I was abLe to connect to the program box & PC app. I tried to recalibrate the ESC but the error alert continued. I also tried a different RX & radio w/o any luck. I'm gonna try a new ESC RX connector

idbdoug

iTrader: (40)

Have you tried a different battery? I once had a bullet style Lipo which had bad internal connection that caused a similar malfunction. Also, if you are using bullet plugs make sure your bullets still have solid soldering and wires going to battery are still in good condition
idbdoug

advpball

iTrader: (30)

brew 99
if you push the on button and sometimes it goes down crooked and gets caught under the case...if that makes sense ...do you have to unplug battery to shut off?it will give you steering but no throttle. hope that helps..happened last night to me,almost missed my race..