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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 01-04-2015, 02:09 AM
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Can someone give me any advice on the 4000kv vs. 4700kv sct motor options. What are the main differences in feel and maybe motor applications. Run on a avg size 1/8 scale outfoor track with medium traction.
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Old 01-04-2015, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
Can someone give me any advice on the 4000kv vs. 4700kv sct motor options. What are the main differences in feel and maybe motor applications. Run on a avg size 1/8 scale outfoor track with medium traction.
Both are smooth, the 4700 will have even more power. I would get the 4700 and dial out some power. IMO
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Old 01-04-2015, 05:31 PM
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Default Hobbywing SCT Pro Case

Is there a replacement case for the esc. The bottom plastic case broke and I can't locate a place to buy a new one. Thanks,
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Old 01-04-2015, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby A.
Is there a replacement case for the esc. The bottom plastic case broke and I can't locate a place to buy a new one. Thanks,
I would shoot Falcon Sekido a email. I have never seen one.
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FastPete
I would shoot Falcon Sekido a email. I have never seen one.
Thanks FastPete. I was able to order the case directly from HW
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:20 PM
  #8406  
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A couple of friends have contacted me recently for a problem with their SCT Pro and 4700kv SCT motor system. During a run, the system will run perfectly and suddenly stop working. The cause being any one of the three (A, B, C) motor wire coming unsoldered from the U-posts. After some searching this appears to be a pretty common problem, simply due to the huge amp draw this motor has. Here are some tips to prevent this from happening:

1. Use a good quality iron and solder. Silver solder is best for this application, and a decent soldering station should be able to melt it easily.
2. Make sure to tin the iron and wire enough to allow the solder to flow between the contacts easily.
3. I have found that removing the 1.5mm screw from the post of the phase in question (A, B, C) and sliding the gold post out makes it far easier to get a good angle on it and thus create a better connection while soldering.
4. Make sure your battery can handle the amp load this motor creates. This can also cause some high heat in the area.
5. Try turning down your throttle epa or gearing the vehicle down. It is indeed possible that the motor is heating up to very high temperatures, and coupled with the stress from the amp draw, the wire can pop off.

Hopefully this solves some issues that users are having out there
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:20 PM
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I just bought a xerun 150a esc and notice my battery seems to drain about 40% faster than it did with a tekin rx8 and a viper vtx8. I run it less than 3 mins and its down to 4.09 from 4.2. Thats a lot more than it used to. I could run 7 min races and be at 3.9 with the other esc's. Anyone else notice a shorter run time with these? Theres no way i could make a full race with this esc using 5000mah batteries
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Old 01-07-2015, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mtpocketsracing
I just bought a xerun 150a esc and notice my battery seems to drain about 40% faster than it did with a tekin rx8 and a viper vtx8. I run it less than 3 mins and its down to 4.09 from 4.2. Thats a lot more than it used to. I could run 7 min races and be at 3.9 with the other esc's. Anyone else notice a shorter run time with these? Theres no way i could make a full race with this esc using 5000mah batteries
Have you changed from the factory settings.that ESC comes factory set with timing and the punch set higher than needed.you should have no problems making runtime.I only run a 4100mah battery and have problem making a 10 min main using a tekin 1900 gen2.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:52 AM
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I have a Xerun ESC and I am trying to program it with the program card. I am following the instructions but the only values showing up on the screen are dashes that do not go away so I cannot change any values. Am I missing something here?
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by KmanM3
I have a Xerun ESC and I am trying to program it with the program card. I am following the instructions but the only values showing up on the screen are dashes that do not go away so I cannot change any values. Am I missing something here?
you are supposed to hook into the fan port not the receiver plug.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
you are supposed to hook into the fan port not the receiver plug.
not according to this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...nual/HW-20.pdf
or this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...W-SM805-en.pdf
and this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...l/HW-10-V2.pdf
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxntwv
Have you changed from the factory settings.that ESC comes factory set with timing and the punch set higher than needed.you should have no problems making runtime.I only run a 4100mah battery and have problem making a 10 min main using a tekin 1900 gen2.
I did run it with all the default settings. I'll try turning the timing it to 0 and the punch down. motor runs cooler than the other 2 esc's however.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by KmanM3
I have a Xerun ESC and I am trying to program it with the program card. I am following the instructions but the only values showing up on the screen are dashes that do not go away so I cannot change any values. Am I missing something here?
If it is anything other than the v3 or 3.1 Xerun, then you remove the plug from the receiver, and hook it to the program box. Only the newest V3/3.1 use the port directly on the ESC and do not require you to remove it from the receiver. If you are leaving it plugged into the reciver, ensure that your transmitter is turned off also.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:48 PM
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SCT Pro uses the fan port also.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:56 PM
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Does anybody know if there is a difference between the Hobbywing WP-SC8 ESC and any of the Rebranded WP-SC8 RTR ESC?
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