HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD
#8406

A couple of friends have contacted me recently for a problem with their SCT Pro and 4700kv SCT motor system. During a run, the system will run perfectly and suddenly stop working. The cause being any one of the three (A, B, C) motor wire coming unsoldered from the U-posts. After some searching this appears to be a pretty common problem, simply due to the huge amp draw this motor has. Here are some tips to prevent this from happening:
1. Use a good quality iron and solder. Silver solder is best for this application, and a decent soldering station should be able to melt it easily.
2. Make sure to tin the iron and wire enough to allow the solder to flow between the contacts easily.
3. I have found that removing the 1.5mm screw from the post of the phase in question (A, B, C) and sliding the gold post out makes it far easier to get a good angle on it and thus create a better connection while soldering.
4. Make sure your battery can handle the amp load this motor creates. This can also cause some high heat in the area.
5. Try turning down your throttle epa or gearing the vehicle down. It is indeed possible that the motor is heating up to very high temperatures, and coupled with the stress from the amp draw, the wire can pop off.
Hopefully this solves some issues that users are having out there
1. Use a good quality iron and solder. Silver solder is best for this application, and a decent soldering station should be able to melt it easily.
2. Make sure to tin the iron and wire enough to allow the solder to flow between the contacts easily.
3. I have found that removing the 1.5mm screw from the post of the phase in question (A, B, C) and sliding the gold post out makes it far easier to get a good angle on it and thus create a better connection while soldering.
4. Make sure your battery can handle the amp load this motor creates. This can also cause some high heat in the area.
5. Try turning down your throttle epa or gearing the vehicle down. It is indeed possible that the motor is heating up to very high temperatures, and coupled with the stress from the amp draw, the wire can pop off.
Hopefully this solves some issues that users are having out there

#8407

I just bought a xerun 150a esc and notice my battery seems to drain about 40% faster than it did with a tekin rx8 and a viper vtx8. I run it less than 3 mins and its down to 4.09 from 4.2. Thats a lot more than it used to. I could run 7 min races and be at 3.9 with the other esc's. Anyone else notice a shorter run time with these? Theres no way i could make a full race with this esc using 5000mah batteries
#8408

I just bought a xerun 150a esc and notice my battery seems to drain about 40% faster than it did with a tekin rx8 and a viper vtx8. I run it less than 3 mins and its down to 4.09 from 4.2. Thats a lot more than it used to. I could run 7 min races and be at 3.9 with the other esc's. Anyone else notice a shorter run time with these? Theres no way i could make a full race with this esc using 5000mah batteries
#8411

not according to this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...nual/HW-20.pdf
or this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...W-SM805-en.pdf
and this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...l/HW-10-V2.pdf
or this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...W-SM805-en.pdf
and this, http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...l/HW-10-V2.pdf
#8412

I did run it with all the default settings. I'll try turning the timing it to 0 and the punch down. motor runs cooler than the other 2 esc's however.
#8413
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)

If it is anything other than the v3 or 3.1 Xerun, then you remove the plug from the receiver, and hook it to the program box. Only the newest V3/3.1 use the port directly on the ESC and do not require you to remove it from the receiver. If you are leaving it plugged into the reciver, ensure that your transmitter is turned off also.