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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 12-11-2014, 09:18 AM
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Got a question about running the 120A v3.1 with 4-pole motors.

I just built a 22SCT 2.0 with Tekin Pro2 4-pole motor. I notice when I hook up the program box to read the stored temp/voltage/RPM info that the RPM is showing approximately double what it should be. I am guessing this is because the ESC is expecting a 2-pole motor, and when used with a 4-pole each revolution registers as 2 in the ESC.

My question is, will this screw up my boost and turbo? For example if the boost range is set at 6000RPM-20000RPM then when using a 4-pole motor will it actually be occurring at 3000RPM-10000RPM? Same goes for turbo, if it's set to kick in at 30000RPM then with a 4-pole will it kick in at 15000RPM?

Thank you in advance for any help.
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:44 AM
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Running a tlr22 SCT 2.0. w/ HW XERUN 3.120a Blinky

Where shoud I start the drag brake for 17.5?

Also for a mild Mod (8.5-10.5)?
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:48 AM
  #8283  
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Originally Posted by simplechamp
Got a question about running the 120A v3.1 with 4-pole motors.

I just built a 22SCT 2.0 with Tekin Pro2 4-pole motor. I notice when I hook up the program box to read the stored temp/voltage/RPM info that the RPM is showing approximately double what it should be. I am guessing this is because the ESC is expecting a 2-pole motor, and when used with a 4-pole each revolution registers as 2 in the ESC.

My question is, will this screw up my boost and turbo? For example if the boost range is set at 6000RPM-20000RPM then when using a 4-pole motor will it actually be occurring at 3000RPM-10000RPM? Same goes for turbo, if it's set to kick in at 30000RPM then with a 4-pole will it kick in at 15000RPM?

Thank you in advance for any help.
Hobbywing has mentioned several times here
On the forum that they dont condone the use of 4pole motors with that unit. Reason being is it stays on sensored mode throughout the whole throttle range and the high RPM's confuse the sensor at full throttle.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:13 PM
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Well that stinks. Guess that's what I get for buying first and asking questions later. I'm going to try it out at least with boost/turbo disabled and see how it runs. It's super smooth and didn't seem to have any issues at full throttle, but that was only on the bench.
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:03 PM
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Default Drag Brake

Originally Posted by impson
Running a tlr22 SCT 2.0. w/ HW XERUN 3.120a Blinky

Where shoud I start the drag brake for 17.5?

Also for a mild Mod (8.5-10.5)?
I find 5% to 10% is a good starting point all around. I personally don't use much more than 10% in most situation.

Good Luck
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
Hobbywing has mentioned several times here
On the forum that they dont condone the use of 4pole motors with that unit. Reason being is it stays on sensored mode throughout the whole throttle range and the high RPM's confuse the sensor at full throttle.
Can we get a post at the start of the thread with info like that? (like what a few buggy threads have)
With pics links sw updates hints tips gearing recommend starting points etc?
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Old 12-12-2014, 05:19 AM
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Can someone tell me what the difference is between the XERUN 3.0 and 3.1?

Can the 3.0 be upgraded to match?

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:31 AM
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.
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Old 12-12-2014, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
Can we get a post at the start of the thread with info like that? (like what a few buggy threads have)
With pics links sw updates hints tips gearing recommend starting points etc?
Cobra has to do that, he's the only one that can edit the first post.
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Old 12-12-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by impson
Can someone tell me what the difference is between the XERUN 3.0 and 3.1?

Can the 3.0 be upgraded to match?

Thanks
They both have the same internals. The only difference is the following upgrades on the V3.1... Heat sink is 1mm taller for better cooling, All aluminum case (v3 has a plastic lower half) and it not has silicone seals arounf the sensorport and programing ports for better dust proofing.
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:36 AM
  #8291  
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Default Pre Programmed Setting for Stock 10.5

My 7.5 has to go for service so had to install a 10.5 into my sct. Boost was set at 20 degrees with some turbo included as well. Motor behaved like my 7.5 with no heat probs whatsoever. Increased boost to 30 and eliminated turbo. Glad I picked up a stock spec now that I have discovered some of its benefits.
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Old 12-14-2014, 04:57 PM
  #8292  
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I recently installed the SCT-PRO-C1 81040250 (Black) in my SCTE. Running SMC 7500 mah batts, initially with my Lvc set to 3.2 it would cut after about 4 min on the track and the Batt would be at 3.8v per cell. I set the LVC to "none" after trying multiple settings with no success. Now comes off the track after a 7 min Qual and the batt is at 3.5. Life is good. However now that I am running a full race I am having trouble with the motor wires. Every other race my "A" terminal wire comes unsoldered. I have checked the motor temp and have never seen it over 130 degrees F. It's always the same wire. I have now re-soldered it 5 times. I'm running 13, 40 gears and there is no extra drag on anything. When running the truck is fast and smooth but this is annoying to the point I'm ready to drop the coin on a Tekin setup like everyone else is running.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:02 PM
  #8293  
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I recently installed the SCT-PRO-C1 81040250 (Black) in my SCTE. Running SC 7 500 ah batts, initially with my Lvc set to 3.2 it would cut after about 4 mind on the track and the Batt would be at 3.8various per cell. I set the LVC to "none" after trying multiple setting with no success. Now comes off the track after a 7 min Qual and the batt is at 3.5. Life is good. However now that I am running a full race I am having trouble with the motor wires. Ever yo the race my "A" terminal wire comes unsoldered. I have checked the motor temp and have never seen it over 130 degrees F. It's always the same wire. I have now re-soldered it 5 times. I'm running 13, 40 gears and there is no extra drag on anything. When running the truck is fast and smooth but this is annoying to the point I'm ready to drop the coin on a Tekin setup like everyone else is running.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:50 PM
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You never mentioned what motor you run.I run the 4000kv with a 16 pinion 100ft straight and never see heat above 130 in my 7lb. Tekno. I can hold my hand on the motor after 8 minutes. I run 8 punch and 7 timing too.
Paul
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
You never mentioned what motor you run.I run the 4000kv with a 16 pinion 100ft straight and never see heat above 130 in my 7lb. Tekno. I can hold my hand on the motor after 8 minutes. I run 8 punch and 7 timing too.
Paul
I'm running the XERUN 3656SD 4700kv motor, I purchased this as a combo, running a 13 tooth pinion and a 40 tooth spur. 130 to me is not hot enough for the wire to come un-soldered. so for some reason it seems only that one terminal is getting hot. The solder does not look broken when this happens the terminal solder is smooth and clean just like I heated it up with an iron and removed the wire. Power is always good then just stops when the wire comes unsoldered. there is never any indication of a problem leading up to this. I have turned the punch down to 2 and timing is at 5.
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