HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD
#798

Where is best place to buy the sct pro esc?
#800

Yes, just the box is hooked up to the computer. But, today I tried it on my other computer and sure enough it took the firmware the first time and the blocks on the lcd are gone. I have not tried it on an esc yet but it appears to be fine again. Really frustrating. I actually took that esc out of the car and put a different brand in just so that I could test the car out today.
#801
#802
Tech Regular

What combo do you guys recommend for a Mugen MBX6 ECO?
#803

80-150amp doesn't matter whick one
Same as the motor 2250kv or 2000kv
14th pinion happy days
14.8volts
Same as the motor 2250kv or 2000kv
14th pinion happy days
14.8volts
#804
Tech Regular
#805

Does anybody know if it possible to change timing on the can of the hobbywing 17.5 justock motor.
#807
#808
Tech Adept

The extra price of the V3 120 AMP is the price of another motor ($70) compared to a V2.1. But I think the extra telemetry and data recording is worth it. Some opinions on this!! (already got a speed passion 6.5T, don't need an extra motor, but a 5.5T combo would be the other option to getting the V3.)
#809
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)

I posted in a different thread but it looks like this may have been the right one...
This evening I ran my brand new HW ESC for the first time. This is an XERUN 150amp ESC on 4s. I ran for about 4 or 5 minutes on the track, then I just lost throttle completely like it hit the voltage cut. Turns out, it wasn't the low voltage cut though.
I tried two freshly charged batteries, and had no throttle. Just a blinking red LED on the ESC at first. I checked all my tx settings, checked throttle signal, checked wiring, checked ESC settings..all good. Eventually, the blinking went away and I just had a solid red LED on the ESC. After that, I found that the motor would run, seemingly fine, until I let off the throttle and let it stop. At this point, there would be no LED lit on the ESC. Then when I pulled the trigger, it would not run the motor again and the solid red LED came back on. I was able to 'push start' the car, then it would run fine again.
This was pretty repeatable. Push start, run fine, stop, no throttle response. Push start, and repeat. This was all with a Tacon 2000kv 1/8 motor by the way, in an RC8.2e with stock spur and 18t pinion. After the first run, the motor and ESC temps were reasonable...I forgot my temp gun at home but I could easily hold my fingers on either indefinitely. When I got home, I tried a Castle motor to see if the problem would persist, and it did. So the problem is definitely with the ESC I think.
Any ideas? If it's bad, what's the best way to get it replaced?
This evening I ran my brand new HW ESC for the first time. This is an XERUN 150amp ESC on 4s. I ran for about 4 or 5 minutes on the track, then I just lost throttle completely like it hit the voltage cut. Turns out, it wasn't the low voltage cut though.
I tried two freshly charged batteries, and had no throttle. Just a blinking red LED on the ESC at first. I checked all my tx settings, checked throttle signal, checked wiring, checked ESC settings..all good. Eventually, the blinking went away and I just had a solid red LED on the ESC. After that, I found that the motor would run, seemingly fine, until I let off the throttle and let it stop. At this point, there would be no LED lit on the ESC. Then when I pulled the trigger, it would not run the motor again and the solid red LED came back on. I was able to 'push start' the car, then it would run fine again.
This was pretty repeatable. Push start, run fine, stop, no throttle response. Push start, and repeat. This was all with a Tacon 2000kv 1/8 motor by the way, in an RC8.2e with stock spur and 18t pinion. After the first run, the motor and ESC temps were reasonable...I forgot my temp gun at home but I could easily hold my fingers on either indefinitely. When I got home, I tried a Castle motor to see if the problem would persist, and it did. So the problem is definitely with the ESC I think.
Any ideas? If it's bad, what's the best way to get it replaced?
Long story short, check all of your soldering and you will fix the problem.
Cheers
Kilroy
#810

I had exactly the same problem on a sensored speed passion speed control. At first I though it was the sensor wire, but it turned out one of the motor wires was loose at the speed control end.. During the trouble shooting process, I pulled my motor apart and after all the movement of the wires, the bad one fell off..
Long story short, check all of your soldering and you will fix the problem.
Cheers
Kilroy
Long story short, check all of your soldering and you will fix the problem.
Cheers
Kilroy
With issues like this I will usually start pulling things apart to find the problem, but I didn't want to go and cut their heat shrink off to inspect the solder joints...I figured if I did that and that didn't turn out to be the problem, I might be without any warranty at all.
Anyway, I got an RMA from HobbyPartz where I bought it and it's going back to them today.