HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD
#7533
Tech Master
iTrader: (83)

According to the instructions if you are using an external bec then you need a separate 4.8-6V power source to power the card. I'm using a high voltage servo so disconnected the esc's bec and wired in a separate bec. So my normal 3 wire connection from the esc to the receiver is only a 2 wire connection (disconnected the red wire) . Hopefully that makes sense.
Darren
Darren
#7534
Tech Master
iTrader: (236)

According to the instructions if you are using an external bec then you need a separate 4.8-6V power source to power the card. I'm using a high voltage servo so disconnected the esc's bec and wired in a separate bec. So my normal 3 wire connection from the esc to the receiver is only a 2 wire connection (disconnected the red wire) . Hopefully that makes sense.
Darren
Darren
#7535
Tech Master
iTrader: (67)

According to the instructions if you are using an external bec then you need a separate 4.8-6V power source to power the card. I'm using a high voltage servo so disconnected the esc's bec and wired in a separate bec. So my normal 3 wire connection from the esc to the receiver is only a 2 wire connection (disconnected the red wire) . Hopefully that makes sense.
Darren
Darren
Depending on the ESC, you will plug in the program card in a different spot, for the SCT pro you plug it into the fan plug; the V3 has a programmer port ; its ~6V on that port and program card should work fine irrespective of whether you have a BEC or not.
for the 150 amp ESC you plug the receiver wire into the program card.. now this is where it gets tricky. When using a BEC you want to remove the red (power) line on the ESC to receiver plug. As a tip; I never cut my ESC plug, instead I get a servo extender cable and remove the red line in it and then plug that into the receiver. that way when I need to plug the ESC into the program box I can. However if you already cut the red line on the ESC to receiver cable you can put in 5V~6V into the program box to get it to power on.
#7536
Tech Master
iTrader: (83)

for the 150 amp ESC you plug the receiver wire into the program card.. now this is where it gets tricky. When using a BEC you want to remove the red (power) line on the ESC to receiver plug. As a tip; I never cut my ESC plug, instead I get a servo extender cable and remove the red line in it and then plug that into the receiver. that way when I need to plug the ESC into the program box I can. However if you already cut the red line on the ESC to receiver cable you can put in 5V~6V into the program box to get it to power on.
#7537


Adjustable voltage to your servo and its fully plug and play, no more removing wires.
Paul
#7538
Tech Rookie

I recently purchased this combo and have had issues from day one. The main issue is shortly after running the car, the red and green led flash when the throttle is in neutral position. According to the manual this means: Over current protection, motor demagnetization, or motor is over load.
I have tried a variety of gear sizes as well as double checking all wires and solder joints. I am hesitant to run the car for any extended time out of fear of damaging either the motor or esc. I have also updated the firmware for the esc. Out of desperation I tried the latest version, 140627. Prior to that I tried 130520. None of these updates seem to make a difference.
The only way I was able to get the led's to stop flashing is by removing the sensor wire and running the setup as sensorless. I am fairly new to this hobby so correct me if I am wrong, but the sensor wire is what is relaying the over load message.
I have searched these forums and cannot seem to find any solutions to this problem. Any help or guidance/suggestions would be much appreciated.
I have tried a variety of gear sizes as well as double checking all wires and solder joints. I am hesitant to run the car for any extended time out of fear of damaging either the motor or esc. I have also updated the firmware for the esc. Out of desperation I tried the latest version, 140627. Prior to that I tried 130520. None of these updates seem to make a difference.
The only way I was able to get the led's to stop flashing is by removing the sensor wire and running the setup as sensorless. I am fairly new to this hobby so correct me if I am wrong, but the sensor wire is what is relaying the over load message.
I have searched these forums and cannot seem to find any solutions to this problem. Any help or guidance/suggestions would be much appreciated.
#7539
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (1)

I have a new Serpent Spyder SCT that weighs in over 5lbs. I am in the market for a new ESC and looking at the Justock Spec Race but have concerns that the truck is too heavy to use with this ESC. Plan on running 17.5T Blinky class.
Does the weight of the vehicle affect the performance of the ESC?
Does the weight of the vehicle affect the performance of the ESC?
#7540

I bought a SCT-Pro and raced it for the first time last weekend. I think it performed great..... except I would have to re calibrate it to my radio before my next run
. Is there a reason for this ?


#7544
Tech Master
iTrader: (111)

Well I decided to try and update my new stock spec v3.1 to see if it would stop shutting off mid run and now it is what they call bricked. I get the power on, servo works but can not shut it off, programming box and computer will not connect to it. So far not real impressed.
#7545
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)

99% of the time there is no need to update the program box. Unless you have an old box with both a 2.1 and v3 speedo