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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 05-04-2014, 02:35 PM
  #6796  
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Originally Posted by FastPete
Strange, I would try it, you need to download Winrar to open it.
Thanks for the response. the file I downloaded from falkonsekido was a .zip file and I downloaded winzip and tried to extract the file and had no luck.

Should I be looking for a .rar file? because I just saw the one and it was a .zip and the free version of winzip didnt want to seem to work for me.

Thanks
Sean
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:46 PM
  #6797  
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Originally Posted by lewis110
You need the LCD program box
Can you use the programming card or do you need the LCD programmer? and is there much difference between the 2 in 1 and newer Multifunctional box?
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:11 PM
  #6798  
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Originally Posted by darkscope001
Thanks for the response. the file I downloaded from falkonsekido was a .zip file and I downloaded winzip and tried to extract the file and had no luck.

Should I be looking for a .rar file? because I just saw the one and it was a .zip and the free version of winzip didnt want to seem to work for me.

Thanks
Sean
You can get WinRAR for free to. That's what you need to open it.
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:45 PM
  #6799  
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can anyone answer my question about punch rates switch point on the previous page
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by darkscope001
Thanks for the response. the file I downloaded from falkonsekido was a .zip file and I downloaded winzip and tried to extract the file and had no luck.

Should I be looking for a .rar file? because I just saw the one and it was a .zip and the free version of winzip didnt want to seem to work for me.

Thanks
Sean
I use www.7zip.com to unzip my files and never had a problem.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:01 PM
  #6801  
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Can I ask what you guys are gearing the EZrun 4700kv in a Slash ? Have a 53t spur
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Vegaspilot
Can you use the programming card or do you need the LCD programmer? and is there much difference between the 2 in 1 and newer Multifunctional box?
The older 2-1 programmer you will need to update the firmware on the program card if you have both the v2.1 style ESC and v3 series. The new multifunction 3-1 program card is good for any ezrun or xerun ESC it has a bigger memory and also comes with a lipo cell checker built in.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:05 PM
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[QUOTE=5th wheel;13236798]can anyone answer my question about punch rates switch point on the previous page[/QUOTE/]

The punch rate in the first initial punch of power either from a stop or out of a corner. Its the rate from 0rpm til whatever you have the start rpm set at for your boost. Also if you have the punch switch set at 40 then the first 40 percent of throttle movement is the first stage and the last 60% of movement is the 2nd stage of punch.

Roger
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mydudrevo
This is completely wrong! Those batteries are fine you can use a 2000 mah 15c if you want and it's not gonna hurt the esc, the batteries will puff immediately but the esc would be fine. And the to day that he should only use those batteries on a 120amp esc, really? The esc doesn't pull the power it's more like a valve allowing the motor to draw through it. And unless its way over geared the motor shouldn't draw enough amps to hurt the esc.
I did not say that the batteries would kill the ESC, but yes, they will certainly die (mine did not puff, just lost Cell 1 due to current draw).

Faulty motors can kill ESC's, batteries going bad aren't a great thing either. You basically don't want anything faulty in your electrical system lest it takes something else down with it.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:10 AM
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My 150a just died after a couple of years of trouble free use.

I intend to replace it with a 120a for my 1/8 ebuggy with a Tenshock 6pole unsensored motor.

Do the HW ESC's still have a problem with the Tenshock motors? Which software version should I use?

Will the 120a be ok or should I get another 150a?

Thanks
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cricha
My 150a just died after a couple of years of trouble free use.

I intend to replace it with a 120a for my 1/8 ebuggy with a Tenshock 6pole unsensored motor.

Do the HW ESC's still have a problem with the Tenshock motors? Which software version should I use?

Will the 120a be ok or should I get another 150a?

Thanks
IMO and what I have seen, the SCT Pro is more than enough (its what I use) in my 1/8 buggys. But the Tenshock is hit or miss. And 6 pole I wouldn't with the SCT Pro.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:00 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply FastPete.

I was running a HW150 & Tenshock combo. HW had a notice of which firmware to use with Tenshock motors. So that's the firmware I used and didn't have any problems

Problem is I can't find that notice on the HW website anymore. As a dealer are you able to please help me with that?

Why don't you recommend using the 120a with Tenshocks?

Thanks
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:31 AM
  #6808  
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I had a very strange problem last weekend and would like to see if anyone else has had the problem and how to fix it.

I have been using HW all year in all my cars and they have worked great until now. My V3.1 is in a 2wd buggy with the V10 17.5t motor. It is in blinky mode and has worked flawlessly for months. I raced both quals without a problem. Then for the main event, all I did was change the battery pack. When my race was up, my buddy pushed on the on/off switch like always as I was on the stand, I wiggled my wheels and he set it down. I gave it throttle but nothing happened. There was steering but no motor. He picked it up and tried to turn it off and back on, but still nothing.

I can down off the drivers stand and took the body off. I checked all the wires and they were good. I turned off my radio and back on. I unplugged the battery and plunged it back in and turned the ESC on again, but still nothing. It was as if the ESC was not calibrated yet. So I tried to recalibrate it. I held the button down until it flashed, then pushed it again while in neutral, but then the motor went full throttle on its own. So I unplugged the battery again. Plugged it back in and now when I checked the steering servo, the servo worked but the motor would run at the same time as if the ESC was also on channel 1. If I touched the throttle, the motor would go full speed, then stop after a few seconds. I tried to recalibrate again with no luck.

The race started without me, so I went back to the pits. I tried again to recalibrate it and this time it worked. I turned it off and back on now it seems to be working normally.

So my question is - what happened? I did not touch anything from Q2 and the main event.
Also, if it some how lost calibration, will it happen again and should I send it in for repair and why would it not recalibrate until the 3rd try?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by cricha
Thanks for the quick reply FastPete.

I was running a HW150 & Tenshock combo. HW had a notice of which firmware to use with Tenshock motors. So that's the firmware I used and didn't have any problems

Problem is I can't find that notice on the HW website anymore. As a dealer are you able to please help me with that?

Why don't you recommend using the 120a with Tenshocks?

Thanks
Im surprised it worked well with the 150A they don't normally play well with 4 or 6 poles. Now the SCT pro does with 4 pole, and their latest firmware has improvements to work with Tenshocks. Maybe some of the guys I seen didn't have it geared right, I have had a few work ok with the SCT Pro.

Its just the latest firmware you use in the SCT Pro for the Tenshock.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:58 AM
  #6810  
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VPPro, what transmitter are you using?

I've been having a similar issue with an Orca esc with my M12. It is intermittent and thus it's difficult to trace the fault. Turning both my tx and rx off & on again seems to do the trick.

Is anyone running the HW120a with a Tenshock 6 pole motor sucesfully?
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