Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Radio and Electronics
HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD >

HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Like Tree196Likes

HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 01-08-2014, 04:53 AM
  #5491  
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
 
BlackStarRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Miramar, Florida
Posts: 1,786
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mtn bkr
Okay, I am at wits end and am ready to give up on Hobbywing equipment. Had my 90a Xerun that I bought on eBay crap out right after calibrating. Bought a Justock from Hobbywing North America and that one has also stopped responding right after calibrating. Before I even installed it into my car I plugged it into my programming card to make sure it worked, and sure enough it did. Install it in my car tonight, calibrate it, test the throttle successfully and then it stops responding just like the 90a did. No longer works on the programming card and won't calibrate either. No beeps and no lighting of the LED.

I'm honestly at a loss for words. I've been racing for 13 years and have never killed an ESC, and now I have 2 brand new Hobbywings crap out within a 2 week span. Nothing has been connected incorrectly. All I did was solder the ESC to the motor, solder the Deans plug on and calibrate. I've used this same receiver, servo, battery and motor with Turnigy, Novak and LRP ESCs without issues so I don't believe it's my equipment causing this. I just put my Turnigy ESC back in and it's working fine with the exact same motor, battery, receiver, servo and sensor wire that seem to be killing the Hobbywing ESCs.

you know thats extremely weird, i have 4 sec's from HW and i have had my sctpro for over year and a half with no issues....
BlackStarRacing is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:18 AM
  #5492  
Tech Addict
 
nanoverse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 650
Default

Originally Posted by JFuel11
I am assuming you went with the 4000 or 4700KV Motors.

Basic Settings:
Running Mode: Forward/Brake
Drag Brake Force 5%
Voltage Cut-Off 3.0V/Cell
DDRS Start Mode (Punch): Level 9 (Max) Reduce if too much bottom end
Max Brake Force 100% - Reduce to 75% if brakes are way too strong

Advanced Settings:
Max Reverse - NA (If going to run reverse I only use 25 0r 50%
Initial Brake Force: =Drag Brake Force
Neutral Range Narrow
Boost Timing 0 (If running 4000KV Motor you may want to add 5 - 10 Degrees
Turbo Open Time NA (No Turbo on 4 pole Motors)
Overheat Protection Enabled
Turbo Timing NA
Boost Start RPM (4000 RPM)
Turbo Open Delay NA
Boost Timing ACC: 350


The best way to optimize your setup is as follow:

A - Gearing: Run with no timing in esc and work out best gearing for power and temp

B - Drop on tooth on pinion and start to add esc timing to increase overall power and top end if needed, watch temps.

Temps can rise very quickly when adding timing so go slow and add a little at a time and then test run and check temps 1 Min in 2 Min in and then every other min. until you reach race time!

Good Luck!

Alan
If the aim is to get smooth usable power more in line with the smoother powerband of 2-pole motors, on medium traction tracks then I would suggest these settings with the 4000kv.

Drag brake: 0 (Four poles have more than enough internal drag brake)
Punch: 3-6 (Again 4-poles are torque monsters as is, if you overgear then little more punch)
Timing: 0-3 (Start with 0)
Gear: Look what the gearing ratio is to achieve 1:1 and over gear one to three pinion sizes. This we have found to get the tire spinning into check and get that top speed.

If you have a super grippy surface than upping the punch is useful, otherwise it just adds to tire spinning.

Last edited by nanoverse; 01-08-2014 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Timing was supposed to be 10 degrees max and not setting 10.
nanoverse is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 08:20 AM
  #5493  
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
pballer2777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: dirty jerz
Posts: 1,854
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pballer2777
Quick question. I have the 120amp 1/8th scale esc with the 4274 2200kv esc. I was thinking about putting this combo in a 8t 2.0 truly for motorama. Would this combo be good enough for truly and what pinion should I start with?
anyone please?
pballer2777 is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:33 AM
  #5494  
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
 
BlackStarRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Miramar, Florida
Posts: 1,786
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nanoverse
If the aim is to get smooth usable power more in line with the smoother powerband of 2-pole motors, on medium traction tracks then I would suggest these settings with the 4000kv.

Drag brake: 0 (Four poles have more than enough internal drag brake)
Punch: 3-6 (Again 4-poles are torque monsters as is, if you overgear then little more punch)
Timing: 0-10 (Start with 0)
Gear: Look what the gearing ratio is to achieve 1:1 and over gear one to three pinion sizes. This we have found to get the tire spinning into check and get that top speed.

If you have a super grippy surface than upping the punch is useful, otherwise it just adds to tire spinning.
Hey quick question my software doesn't have these options for my sctpro.... Is there a special software to download?
BlackStarRacing is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 11:22 AM
  #5495  
Tech Addict
 
nanoverse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 650
Default

Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
Hey quick question my software doesn't have these options for my sctpro.... Is there a special software to download?
Load latest software from HW site and update prog box or just use the box to adjust settings and later update.

These should be visible through the box.

Edit: Sorry the timing was supposed to be about 10 degrees (0-4) max and not setting 10!
nanoverse is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 11:39 AM
  #5496  
Tech Elite
 
rcboy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 3,703
Default

Originally Posted by mtn bkr
Okay, I am at wits end and am ready to give up on Hobbywing equipment. Had my 90a Xerun that I bought on eBay crap out right after calibrating. Bought a Justock from Hobbywing North America and that one has also stopped responding right after calibrating. Before I even installed it into my car I plugged it into my programming card to make sure it worked, and sure enough it did. Install it in my car tonight, calibrate it, test the throttle successfully and then it stops responding just like the 90a did. No longer works on the programming card and won't calibrate either. No beeps and no lighting of the LED.

I'm honestly at a loss for words. I've been racing for 13 years and have never killed an ESC, and now I have 2 brand new Hobbywings crap out within a 2 week span. Nothing has been connected incorrectly. All I did was solder the ESC to the motor, solder the Deans plug on and calibrate. I've used this same receiver, servo, battery and motor with Turnigy, Novak and LRP ESCs without issues so I don't believe it's my equipment causing this. I just put my Turnigy ESC back in and it's working fine with the exact same motor, battery, receiver, servo and sensor wire that seem to be killing the Hobbywing ESCs.
When you calibrate, are you sure youre doing it in the correct sequence? If you do not do it correctly the esc will lock up and not respond because its trying to 'center' itself and it cant because the throttle range is incorrectly set.
rcboy1 is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 11:50 AM
  #5497  
Tech Initiate
 
bstadtler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Port Saint Lucie
Posts: 39
Default motors

This an email I got from FalconSedko after I sent my motor back for repairs
YW13INV1223-1

Dear

Our RMA has inspected the ESC at multiple levels. The sensor board got burned out and it needs to be completely replaced. This happens from various reasons but mainly by power related source (over surged current, irregular current C). You may want to check the brand, age, and current stability level of batteries, most importantly connect wires correctly.

As you are our value customer, we will issue the brand-new replacement this time with no extra charge. Please find the inspection summary.

=== Inspection Summary ===

Motor: Xerun 4068SD Brushless Blue Edition
Term: non-defect,
Purchased from authorized Dealer - YES
Instruction: Provide a brand new motor
Service Charge: $89 - waived
S/H: $8.99 - waived
Total: $0

It refers to my escape but they replaced my motor; it would bind up on me.
Are they talking about a motor or speed controller? What board burned up?
I'm using their esc's with their motors and SMC 65C 4 cell batteries and my other car works great. Just the one bad motor so far. This also happened on a Novak escape and motor; which is why I switched to Hobby-wing.
What do you guys think?
bstadtler is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 12:03 PM
  #5498  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
 
mtn bkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 667
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rcboy1
When you calibrate, are you sure youre doing it in the correct sequence? If you do not do it correctly the esc will lock up and not respond because its trying to 'center' itself and it cant because the throttle range is incorrectly set.
I followed the sequence in the instructions. If it's locks up shouldn't it still respond to the program card?
mtn bkr is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 05:33 PM
  #5499  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mtn bkr
I followed the sequence in the instructions. If it's locks up shouldn't it still respond to the program card?
When it locks up, are you able to disconnect power and then go through the steps again for calibration, or is it completely not responding even after sitting a while?

Have you tried reversing your throttle channel prior to calibrating to see if that helps?
treys1 is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 05:44 PM
  #5500  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
 
mtn bkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 667
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by treys1
When it locks up, are you able to disconnect power and then go through the steps again for calibration, or is it completely not responding even after sitting a while?

Have you tried reversing your throttle channel prior to calibrating to see if that helps?
No longer responds to attempts at calibrating. Throttle channel on my radio is currently reversed.
mtn bkr is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 05:49 PM
  #5501  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mtn bkr
No longer responds to attempts at calibrating. Throttle channel on my radio is currently reversed.
Hmm....

Are you using an external BEC? If so have you pulled the red wire on the ESC?
treys1 is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:41 PM
  #5502  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
 
mtn bkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 667
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by treys1
Hmm....

Are you using an external BEC? If so have you pulled the red wire on the ESC?
No external BEC. I was initially able to calibrate and have it respond to a slight pull of the throttle. After 2-3 seconds it stopped responding to any throttle input and further calibration attempts have been unsuccessful. When I plug it into my program card I only get negative symbols for all 3 displays. Still powers up the receiver and fan just fine.
mtn bkr is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 07:11 PM
  #5503  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mtn bkr
No external BEC. I was initially able to calibrate and have it respond to a slight pull of the throttle. After 2-3 seconds it stopped responding to any throttle input and further calibration attempts have been unsuccessful. When I plug it into my program card I only get negative symbols for all 3 displays. Still powers up the receiver and fan just fine.
Ah, I was going to say try to re-flash the firmware but it sounds like you have the LED program card, not the LCD that hooks up to the computer.

If you just bought it follow the instructions here http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/rma to send it back and have it fixed.

I'm sure if the gear is new they will take care of it.

Last edited by treys1; 01-08-2014 at 07:42 PM.
treys1 is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 08:23 PM
  #5504  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
 
FastPete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Orland Park IL
Posts: 5,311
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by treys1
Ah, I was going to say try to re-flash the firmware but it sounds like you have the LED program card, not the LCD that hooks up to the computer.

If you just bought it follow the instructions here http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/rma to send it back and have it fixed.

I'm sure if the gear is new they will take care of it.
Sorry was away today guys. I read all this I agree get a RMA send it back let them take a look at it. Im sure they will take good care of you.
FastPete is offline  
Old 01-08-2014, 08:28 PM
  #5505  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by FastPete
Sorry was away today guys. I read all this I agree get a RMA send it back let them take a look at it. Im sure they will take good care of you.
I've got your back... LOL
treys1 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.