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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 01-02-2014, 09:38 AM
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 5th wheel
Buggy looks good
Thank you, buggy feels good too. Going to turn a couple laps tonight to break in everything.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:53 AM
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Default Battery Lead Issues

Originally Posted by d_scientist
Thanks a lot guys... will go back and check again.. hopefully thats the problem as I have been melting the battery lead solder 3 times yesterday!!!!
It sounds like you have some other issues going on as well.

Is this happening at the ESC or the Battery Connector?
You either have insufficent solder joints or are pulling way to many amps (usually other things heat up and melt down if pulling that kind of amps)

Let me know and also give more details on your setup please:

Car, Motor, Gearing, Battery... Anything you can think of please.

Thanks

Alan
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:54 AM
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Default Good Deal!

Originally Posted by Captcha
Thank you, buggy feels good too. Going to turn a couple laps tonight to break in everything.
Let us know if we can help with anything else!

Alan
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:45 PM
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Jfuel11
did i miss the Wright up you were working on?.
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:08 PM
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I was at the track the other day with my hobbywing sct pro ESC and it started to smoke. I'm not sure what there called but there the 2 little bettery type things that popped by the bettery leads. I've had it for a month, warrenty still up? Anyone help?
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wever75
I was at the track the other day with my hobbywing sct pro ESC and it started to smoke. I'm not sure what there called but there the 2 little bettery type things that popped by the bettery leads. I've had it for a month, warrenty still up? Anyone help?
Thought you sent it in for Warranty inspection. The caps popped sounds like,
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:03 PM
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So I have the HW XERUN SCT Pro Esc and 4700kv motor in my Tekno SCT410 and drove about 5 packs in it (2s 6500 mAh) and it ran great. Then suddenly it cut out, it was a fresh battery and no connections had come undone or anything. It seems when I push start it, it will go but as soon as it stops it wont start up again. LED wasn't flashing at all, restarted it and it began flashing red, then stopped, then started. It was inconsistent and would change every time I turned it on.

I saw some other people had the issue of it running only after a push start, but can't seem to find anyone who has solved the issue.

Any ideas or solutions anyone knows of? Also I've only had the ESC/motor for about a month now, would this possibly be a warranty worthy issue?
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TripleThick
So I have the HW XERUN SCT Pro Esc and 4700kv motor in my Tekno SCT410 and drove about 5 packs in it (2s 6500 mAh) and it ran great. Then suddenly it cut out, it was a fresh battery and no connections had come undone or anything. It seems when I push start it, it will go but as soon as it stops it wont start up again. LED wasn't flashing at all, restarted it and it began flashing red, then stopped, then started. It was inconsistent and would change every time I turned it on.

I saw some other people had the issue of it running only after a push start, but can't seem to find anyone who has solved the issue.

Any ideas or solutions anyone knows of? Also I've only had the ESC/motor for about a month now, would this possibly be a warranty worthy issue?
That's strange. I run the same ESC, I would try to recalibrate, try another sensor wire, lower the LVC, one at a time. And report back. A month old sure you can send it in for them to look at it. Just follow the instructions on the website.

Post your settings also, so JFuel and others can take a look.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:35 PM
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The latest firmware improves startup and low end control. Have you tried that?

I agree on the re-calibrate (need to after firmware anyway) and check the sensor cable.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:50 PM
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Default No Jerry... Not yet...

Originally Posted by 5th wheel
Jfuel11
did i miss the Wright up you were working on?.
Jerry,

You have not missed it yet. I am still working on it as it is taking more time then planned but I think will be very good. I am basically taking the information from the manual and then expanding on it with my personal experience and recommendations. Here is a sample below:

1C – Voltage Cutoff: This setting defines the low voltage cutoff for use with LiPo batteries, preventing over discharging. The ESC detects the battery’s voltage at any time, if the voltage is lower than the threshold for 2 seconds, the output power will be reduced 70%, after 10 seconds the output power will be completely shut off and the red LED flashes in such a way: “☆-☆-, ☆-☆-, ☆-☆-”. There are three main options for the cutoff setting.

• Option 1 – None: No voltage cutoff is used. Select for use with NiCd or NiMH battery types.
• Option 2 – Auto: The ESC detects the number of cells present in the battery pack used, and selects a suitable cut-off voltage.
• Option 3 – User Select: The level of the voltage cutoff is defined by the user. The setting selected is for the overall battery voltage. The cutoff can be set from 3.0v – 11.1v, with steps of 0.1v

Racer Tips & Suggestions:

 Option 1 – “No Voltage” should never be used for a Lipo type of battery unless you are troubleshooting a setup that is losing power or shutting down during a run. If disabled for testing make sure to leverage a fully charged lipo pack and ensure that it is only ran a few minutes and not run beyond safe discharge voltage.
 When leveraging Option 2 you are allowing the esc to assume the number of cells and voltage the battery has that is being run. Some Lipo packs of lower C rating or undercharged packs can cause issue with this option. I personally suggest leveraging Option 3 and setting the final pack voltage you choose to discharge the Lipo.

My Applications:

 I usually run Option 3 and specific the exact voltage I want to discharge my lipo battery down to during a run. This varies on the pack, class and duration of racing I plan to run.
o 2WD Mod Buggy (Lower Amp Draw Class), I typically run a 4800 – 5000 25 – 50C Mah Lipo battery and have little worry of running out of power for even 10 minute main, so I set this Option 3 to 6.4 Volts allowing a balance pack to discharge down to a very safe 3.2 volts per cell.
o 2WD Stock Buggy & 2wd Stock SCT/Truck (Lower Amp Draw Class), I typically run 6000+ 90C+ Lipo battery and again have little or no worry of running out of power for even 10 Minute main, so I set this to Option 3 to 6.4 Volts. This allows the pack to stay in a very safe discharge voltage. I mainly do this because I often like to go out for long practice session where I will run a battery down to the voltage cutoff.
o 2WD Mod Short Course, 4WD Short Course or 4wd Buggy (High Amp Draw Class) require a greater demand on a Lipo battery. Plus run time may be at a premium in some of these classes depending on class, track, driver and conditions. I tend to run Option 3 and set voltage down to 6.0 Volts to maximize run time and reduce false Low Voltage Issues under heavy load.
 Lower C Rated Lipo and False Low Voltage Issues: Under heavy loads a lipo battery can have the voltage pulled down fast (known as voltage sag) for a brief moment. This is typical of running High Amp Draw Setups/Classes with batteries that are not up to the task (Lower C Rated Lipo). Even quality packs can have this issue under heavy loads. You can reduce this issue by running a lower Voltage Cutoff. I have run as low as 2.8 Volts per cell in some cases to maximize run time and reduce this issue. Keep in mind this is not sustained voltage only voltage under load. Most often even at 2.8 Volts per cell cut off the Lipo will show above 3.0 volts per cell after LVC was triggered.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:59 PM
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Default Pete is right...

Originally Posted by TripleThick
So I have the HW XERUN SCT Pro Esc and 4700kv motor in my Tekno SCT410 and drove about 5 packs in it (2s 6500 mAh) and it ran great. Then suddenly it cut out, it was a fresh battery and no connections had come undone or anything. It seems when I push start it, it will go but as soon as it stops it wont start up again. LED wasn't flashing at all, restarted it and it began flashing red, then stopped, then started. It was inconsistent and would change every time I turned it on.

I saw some other people had the issue of it running only after a push start, but can't seem to find anyone who has solved the issue.

Any ideas or solutions anyone knows of? Also I've only had the ESC/motor for about a month now, would this possibly be a warranty worthy issue?
Pete has you going down the right direction. This sounds mostly like a sensor issue of some sort. As Pete Suggested try the following:

- New Sensor Wire
- Make the additional test that Pete had stated and report back your findings.

If those items do not resolve the issue it sounds like the esc may not be transitioning from sensor to sensorless run mode. It does this on its own and leverages Sensored run mode at low RPMs to get the car up and running smoothly. It could also be the sensor board on the motor as well. If you by chance have a different motor you can test with that would confirm if it is a motor or esc issue.

If we can not resolve all Hobbywing products sold through Authorized North America Dealer can be sent in for warranty and inspection. The work and the inspection is done right here in the US! Check out link below for warranty info:

http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/rma

Good luck and report back the news... good or bad please!

Alan
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:01 PM
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Default Spot On!!!

Originally Posted by treys1
The latest firmware improves startup and low end control. Have you tried that?

I agree on the re-calibrate (need to after firmware anyway) and check the sensor cable.
Good Advice!
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:05 PM
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Default The Capacitors do blow every now and then on any brand...

Originally Posted by wever75
I was at the track the other day with my hobbywing sct pro ESC and it started to smoke. I'm not sure what there called but there the 2 little bettery type things that popped by the bettery leads. I've had it for a month, warranty still up? Anyone help?
I have had the caps let go every once in a while... Used to blow them on another brand of esc very often.

Does the ESC still run/work?
Does it turn on?
You could attempt to replace them yourself if you like as you can order a new set from the website or you can send in the ESC for service/repair/Warranty Inspection which is done right here in the US. This service is offer when ESC is purchase directly or from Authorized HWNA Dealer.

For more information see link below:

http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/rma

Good Luck and sorry for the trouble!

Alan
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:17 PM
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hey guys, just wondering i got the new 80A waterproofed esc and the 8.5t motor, the bullet connectors that came the combo that needs soldering onto the motor terminals doesn't look like it'll fit the pre-soldered on connectors on the motor?
did u guys solder it straaight onto the motor or those connectors?
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