Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Radio and Electronics
HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD >

HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Like Tree192Likes

HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 03-22-2013, 06:12 PM
  #2371  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
lewis110's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hallstead, PA
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Morpheus847
ok, got the 930 software loaded works great so far. I just ran boosted 17.5 in my short course with the stock software. With a 10.5 in buggy would it be best to run the stock software or mod software?
For a 10.5 i would still stick with the stock firmware.
lewis110 is offline  
Old 03-22-2013, 07:35 PM
  #2372  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Vegatron75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,033
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Been having a few issues w/ my SCT pro esc. The current layout has a real short run up to a small jump that you need to hit full blast.

A couple of times I've went to hit the approach to the the jump and had nothing, no acceleration.

Doesnt' seem happen very often, but I'd still like to stop it.

No lipo cut-off, no thermal protection.

Running the 4000kv motor, Tekno SCT, Nano-tech Aspec 6200.

Any ideas?
Vegatron75 is offline  
Old 03-22-2013, 08:04 PM
  #2373  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 136
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by microracer25
What would be a recommendation for a esc running 17.5 blinky offroad?
I received previous recommendations to look at the Xtreme Stock for 17.5 blinky offroad buggy. I see that Falcon Sekido has the Xerun 90a on sale for about the same price as the Xtreme stock. Would the 90a be a good choice for 17.5 blinky, since it would give me the ability to run a lower turn motor?

http://www.falconsekido.com/products...0a-sd-esc-blue
microracer25 is offline  
Old 03-22-2013, 10:38 PM
  #2374  
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston TX (formally Sou CA)
Posts: 1,220
Trader Rating: 90 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by microracer25
I received previous recommendations to look at the Xtreme Stock for 17.5 blinky offroad buggy. I see that Falcon Sekido has the Xerun 90a on sale for about the same price as the Xtreme stock. Would the 90a be a good choice for 17.5 blinky, since it would give me the ability to run a lower turn motor?

http://www.falconsekido.com/products...0a-sd-esc-blue
Yes, the 90a amp is the latest xerun design and it's perfect for stock racing. The only drawback is that you will need the programmer and computer to load the blinky firmware. I own the 120a and 90a and can't tell difference when running 17.5 or 8.5.

Also, The Xtreme stock is only a 60A.
Kuya_Kimo is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 06:27 AM
  #2375  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 136
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
Yes, the 90a amp is the latest xerun design and it's perfect for stock racing. The only drawback is that you will need the programmer and computer to load the blinky firmware. I own the 120a and 90a and can't tell difference when running 17.5 or 8.5.

Also, The Xtreme stock is only a 60A.
So, the Xtreme Stock is already in "blinky" mode? Can the Xtreme Stock have timing or boost, etc added to it?

If I went with the 90a, what would I need to program the software? LED program card, LCD box and a USB Link?
Sorry for the questions, I am not familiar with Hobbywings products.
Thanks

Last edited by microracer25; 03-23-2013 at 07:08 AM.
microracer25 is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 07:13 AM
  #2376  
Tech Master
iTrader: (67)
 
run_pais's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Columbia, MD USA
Posts: 1,282
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Vegatron75
Been having a few issues w/ my SCT pro esc. The current layout has a real short run up to a small jump that you need to hit full blast.

A couple of times I've went to hit the approach to the the jump and had nothing, no acceleration.

Doesnt' seem happen very often, but I'd still like to stop it.

No lipo cut-off, no thermal protection.

Running the 4000kv motor, Tekno SCT, Nano-tech Aspec 6200.

Any ideas?
hi,
it could be many things causing this. It looks like you are going from brakes to full throttle to get past the jump. which could mean you are having something to wierd going on with the start rpms or when suddenly drawing lot of current to get past the jump. Does this happen when the battery is fresh or only after a few laps??

- First check the wiring from motor to ESC if one of them is slightly loose your motor will run but you will loose power on sudden acceleration and your top end will be lost too.. happens to the best of us
- if not that replace your sensor wire.
- if you are using bullet connectors to your battery make sure you are not using the cage type connectors used for charging batteries. They will not be able to handle the current required and when you go from brakes to full throttle you are pulling a lot of current.

(I think im running out of ideas now)

- for fail safe I put a glitch buster on my receiver so when the receiver system is current starved the cap can drive the system. This is usually seen as a loss of steering and throttle power for a split second which might be the difference between making the jump or casing it.
run_pais is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 07:25 AM
  #2377  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Vegatron75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,033
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by run_pais
hi,
it could be many things causing this. It looks like you are going from brakes to full throttle to get past the jump. which could mean you are having something to wierd going on with the start rpms or when suddenly drawing lot of current to get past the jump. Does this happen when the battery is fresh or only after a few laps??

- First check the wiring from motor to ESC if one of them is slightly loose your motor will run but you will loose power on sudden acceleration and your top end will be lost too.. happens to the best of us
- if not that replace your sensor wire.
- if you are using bullet connectors to your battery make sure you are not using the cage type connectors used for charging batteries. They will not be able to handle the current required and when you go from brakes to full throttle you are pulling a lot of current.

(I think im running out of ideas now)

- for fail safe I put a glitch buster on my receiver so when the receiver system is current starved the cap can drive the system. This is usually seen as a loss of steering and throttle power for a split second which might be the difference between making the jump or casing it.
Full charge or less doesnt' seem to be an indicator. The few times this has happened didn't show one way or the other.

This little jump has no braking going on, little 180 into a small step-up and then "full blast".

My soldering skills are ok, motor wires are ok, sensor wire is pretty new.

I'm using the solid bullets. Although, the nano=tech battery holes seem to be a little larger than the bullets that I have.

I'm going to try some castle bullets and see if they fit a little tighter.

Also going to use a glitch buster next time I run it.

This sudden loss of power is very infrequent. It's still a problem though. Last race, I cased this jump and a the 2nd place Losi landed on me, luckily my truck held and he bounced off, otherwise this could have cost me....
Vegatron75 is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 07:38 AM
  #2378  
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
 
maddog9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 1,303
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

wrong area sorry.

Last edited by maddog9; 03-23-2013 at 09:05 AM.
maddog9 is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 02:27 PM
  #2379  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Commerce Twp. MI
Posts: 928
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rippen
I have a 3656SD 4700KV coming, what pinion gear should I use in a SC10 4X4 with a 62 tooth spur.
Anyone
rippen is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 02:39 PM
  #2380  
Tech Master
iTrader: (67)
 
run_pais's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Columbia, MD USA
Posts: 1,282
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Vegatron75
Full charge or less doesnt' seem to be an indicator. The few times this has happened didn't show one way or the other.

This little jump has no braking going on, little 180 into a small step-up and then "full blast".

My soldering skills are ok, motor wires are ok, sensor wire is pretty new.

I'm using the solid bullets. Although, the nano=tech battery holes seem to be a little larger than the bullets that I have.

I'm going to try some castle bullets and see if they fit a little tighter.

Also going to use a glitch buster next time I run it.

This sudden loss of power is very infrequent. It's still a problem though. Last race, I cased this jump and a the 2nd place Losi landed on me, luckily my truck held and he bounced off, otherwise this could have cost me....
lets see...
- we still got the bullet connectors. The ones I have are split so you can spread them with a flat head to ensure a good fit. Not sure if yours is different or solid; this is important! PAul Rush was helping a guy out and he realized he was using the caged connectors and once we changed it his issue was resolved. his car would lose power intermittently too.
- try the glitch buster
- also maybe try running a different battery, maybe the one you got is spent.

Theres lot of team drivers who visit this forum and we will be happy to help you figure this one out.
run_pais is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 02:44 PM
  #2381  
Tech Master
iTrader: (67)
 
run_pais's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Columbia, MD USA
Posts: 1,282
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rippen
Anyone
on the sc10 4x4 with the 4700KV motor try 12T. go up or down 1 tooth depending on the size of the track.
run_pais is offline  
Old 03-23-2013, 05:50 PM
  #2382  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
TCCustoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 1,512
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rippen
Anyone
I used 13t on my SCTE with 13/40 gearing and it ripped
TCCustoms is offline  
Old 03-24-2013, 01:15 PM
  #2383  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 209
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default hobbywing v3

Can someone post a good setup for the v3 in a 4x4 sct. I would like to try one and am looking for a good starting point.

Thanks
wkidder is offline  
Old 03-24-2013, 02:11 PM
  #2384  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Norway
Posts: 354
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Vegatron75
Full charge or less doesnt' seem to be an indicator. The few times this has happened didn't show one way or the other.

This little jump has no braking going on, little 180 into a small step-up and then "full blast".

My soldering skills are ok, motor wires are ok, sensor wire is pretty new.

I'm using the solid bullets. Although, the nano=tech battery holes seem to be a little larger than the bullets that I have.

I'm going to try some castle bullets and see if they fit a little tighter.

Also going to use a glitch buster next time I run it.

This sudden loss of power is very infrequent. It's still a problem though. Last race, I cased this jump and a the 2nd place Losi landed on me, luckily my truck held and he bounced off, otherwise this could have cost me....
Are the servo taking a vacation at the same time also? This happened to me, and it was my servo drawing too much amps.
ridgeracer is offline  
Old 03-24-2013, 04:08 PM
  #2385  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 10
Default XERUN 120a SCT PRO issues

Hi. I recently purchased a xerun sct 120a esc from my local hobby shop. I installed it with a sensored trinity d3.5 17.5 turn motor and 2 cell, 5000Mha, 30C LiPo battery in my Associated SC10. I programmed it according to the instructions.

I had been running the Associated XP SC700 speed control and Reedy 3300kv motor. Everything ran great with this set up.
When I put in the new speed control, I started running it with the default settings. When I pulled the throttle the truck ran slow for about half a second and the green light came on and then after half a second both lights came on and it went full speed. I thought it might be the punch mode, so I tried several different levels from 1-9. Each setting, the same thing happened.

Also, as I was racing, when I would go full speed down the straight away and then slow down to make a hairpin turn, when I start to pick up speed again, the truck pretty much dies. There is no throttle and it just rolls for about 3-4 seconds. The throttle is unresponsive, but the steering keeps working as it should. As long as the truck keeps moving, it works fine. When it stops, the half second delay in throttle happens. When it goes full speed and stops, it takes 3-4 seconds to respond again.

The other thing that happens is when I change any of the settings, the motor becomes reversed. I have to change the settings, then go into the "motor rotation" setting and switch it.

I have tried 2 different motor sensor wires, and 2 different batteries, 2 different controller/receivers as well as 2 different motors. I've tried just about every combination of settings in all 12 items.

Do you have any ideas? Is there a setting I'm not getting? I just bought this on March 21. Is there anything I can try? I'd love to not have to send it away since I pull all my connectors on it and don't want to be without a speed control for too long.

Thanks for your help.
whitey_75 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.