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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 03-21-2013, 06:40 AM
  #2356  
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I think some one else said something about it cutting off about .3v too early as well. Just turn it down slowly until it gets where you want it. I honestly have mine turned off because I never use my cars off the track. If I'm running that low on batteries in a 5 min heat/main then something is majorly wrong!
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:57 AM
  #2357  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Anybody know why my 150 amp xerun wants to cut my batteries off early? I programmed it to cut off 3.4 volts per cell, but it goes into lipo mode at about 3.7 volts per cell.
If the voltage goes under 3.4V under load for 2 seconds, or more, it cuts.
But the lipo will easily restore to 3.7V then.
In general:
If you run stock motors, (13.5T or higher) or stock blinky classes, you can do with a voltage cut-off at 3.4V (per cell) because if the voltage cut-off comes, you still have some 10 seconds, to drive the car to a safe spot.

Now we are talking about the 150A ESC, and in general we are talking low wind motors, so heavier loads.
I have had my lipo cut-off at 2.6V/cell to get maximum runtime (4.30min) with my S966e on 4S, and the lipo's restored then to 3.1V....
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:09 AM
  #2358  
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Originally Posted by j3fron
i have problem....

1 of my U terminal 3656sd motor got snapped.
i mean one side/corner of U terminal, not both....

and i managed to soldered again using that 1 piece side/corner of broken U terminal after i soldered with side/corner U terminal that still in contact.

my question....
if i broken both U side terminal, can i change with other terminal/conector with banana split conecctor?
or just straight solder it? can it hold up?
yes I have seen drivers unsolder the U terminal and solder the wires directly to the board (wire was pushed into the hole the original U terminal was in). The board can hold up to the soldering job of doing the wire directly.
Note though that the 12 gauge wires do not easily fit into the hole and the U terminals are so easy to solder to that I would not take it off unless you need to (which in your case it looks like you need to).
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:06 AM
  #2359  
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Originally Posted by j3fron
i have problem....

1 of my U terminal 3656sd motor got snapped.
i mean one side/corner of U terminal, not both....
and i managed to soldered again using that 1 piece side/corner of broken U terminal after i soldered with side/corner U terminal that still in contact.
my question....
if i broken both U side terminal, can i change with other terminal/conector with banana split conecctor?
or just straight solder it? can it hold up?
Or just take the tabs off as i did and get rid of the use shape connector and put in the QTEQ quick connects and just back the hex screw out and the wire releases from the motor or esc depending what kit you buy...

http://www.reflexracing.net/QTEQ-Pow...pe_p_1277.html

Like this...


Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Anybody know why my 150 amp xerun wants to cut my batteries off early? I programmed it to cut off 3.4 volts per cell, but it goes into lipo mode at about 3.7 volts per cell. Think i'm gonna program it for 3.2 V.P.C. to get it where i want the esc to cutoff at. My question is, why does it do this? I'm running a 1900Kv motor 4s 4100mah batteries. Esc wasn't hot, motor was warm.
Common hobbywing issue that it cuts off early and usually doesnt even show the LVC light so most just drop the voltage til they are happy with where it cuts off but just be careful where you select to have it cut off
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:55 AM
  #2360  
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Originally Posted by lewis110
You want the LCD 3-1 (or 2-1) program box. The newest blinky mode is 508_No_Timing and the newest boosted firmware is 930 stock/mod I would reflash the esc and it should let you disable the overheat protection.

The LCD is better in my opinion. With led is mainly just for Ezrun speedo's where they are pretty generic. The LCD will tell you exactly what you are programing. The led just gives you a number.

Roger
thank you i misstyped, i have the LED i ordered the LCD
what firmware does the LED have?
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:44 PM
  #2361  
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Originally Posted by jrz93
thank you i misstyped, i have the LED i ordered the LCD
what firmware does the LED have?
The firmware in the program box doesn't really matter unless you have a new V3 esc and a V2.1 like your 1S speedo. You will have more options for programing and it actually spells out and tells you exactly what setting you are changing.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:04 PM
  #2362  
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Originally Posted by lewis110
It's been a common problem with some Tekins pro 4's. There is a reason that Tekin wants you to use the rx8 with it. The sensor problem comes from the motor being extremely noisey and the speed control gets confused which makes it go into sensorless mode. Novak had the same problem with them when they first came out. The rx8 works so well because after the motor gets up and running the speedo switches over into sensorless mode. Your not the first person to have this problem.

Switch over to the hobbywing 3656sd 4000kv motor and you won't have a problem. Plus you will have more power. Not putting down the Tekins but the rotor in the hobbywing is so much bigger it just allows the motor to do a better job.
Picked up a 3656 motor...problem solved. Plus, it's waaay faster and runs approx 20 degrees cooler. Great bang for the buck.

Also, I was stoked to find out my local track is now a Hobbywing dealer.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:33 PM
  #2363  
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Originally Posted by cstoeltzing
Picked up a 3656 motor...problem solved. Plus, it's waaay faster and runs approx 20 degrees cooler. Great bang for the buck.

Also, I was stoked to find out my local track is now a Hobbywing dealer.
You should listen to the Team guys when we let you know how much power these motors make. More and more racers are switching over at my local track and they are faster than they were before. You can also turn down the punch and timing and still make your tires look like nickles coming down the straight............... I recommend on the SC PRO and the 4000kv motor you adjust your punch to 2 and timing to 1.
Paul Rush
HWNA
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:13 PM
  #2364  
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Those connectors are awesome. I've not seen them before. Too bad my 4274 doesn't have solder tabs like that. Boo!
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:52 AM
  #2365  
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guys i was wondering can the version 3 (V3) software be loaded safely onto the older 60,90,120 v2.1 esc's. I used to have a 60a in a short course truck and liked it real well. Now I have a 120a brushless hobbies lt4 and the software looks pretty much like the older hobbywing stuff. I am wanting to load it with the hobbywing software V3 if possible because of the added adjustability in boost and turbo. Also I am going to be running a older 10.5 in my 2wd buggy, would I want to use the stock software or Mod software?
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:20 AM
  #2366  
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Originally Posted by Morpheus847
guys i was wondering can the version 3 (V3) software be loaded safely onto the older 60,90,120 v2.1 esc's. I used to have a 60a in a short course truck and liked it real well. Now I have a 120a brushless hobbies lt4 and the software looks pretty much like the older hobbywing stuff. I am wanting to load it with the hobbywing software V3 if possible because of the added adjustability in boost and turbo. Also I am going to be running a older 10.5 in my 2wd buggy, would I want to use the stock software or Mod software?
As far as I know the brushless hobbies speed control is pretty a Hobbywing copy. You can not load the V3 speed control firmware into a V2.1 esc or a copy of. The brushless hobbies esc even uses the hobbywing pc program. Once you hook up the speedo to the pc it will list available firmwares. With that said the newest firmwares for the V2.1 all start with V3 I know its confusing at first. You will beable to get away with stock firmware, the 930 stock/mod is the newest ones nor boosted.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:28 AM
  #2367  
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yea that's why I got it pretty much I had very good luck with the 60a I had and the 120a lt4 was the same price I could get the new 90a for, plus I still had my 2 in 1 program box. I downloaded the v3 usb software and it has a couple of v3 software listed when I hook up the speed control. So that can be loaded to the lt4 right.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:44 AM
  #2368  
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ok, got the 930 software loaded works great so far. I just ran boosted 17.5 in my short course with the stock software. With a 10.5 in buggy would it be best to run the stock software or mod software?
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:21 AM
  #2369  
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77
have u had any problems out of ur 1/8 speed control????
LOL sorry i have had some stuff going on the past few days. and no, the Xerun has got to be the best speed control out there in my opinion. I've ran the smaller, less expensive 80amp in a monster truck that weighed near 12 pounds--for four years straight. Of course that was 2-3 years ago when i bashed
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:01 PM
  #2370  
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I have a 3656SD 4700KV coming, what pinion gear should I use in a SC10 4X4 with a 62 tooth spur.
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