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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 01-15-2013, 04:18 AM
  #1621  
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Originally Posted by Brian Miskolczi
MowingGrass- Here is the part number for the combo I would suggest: 81040230 This is the 150A Speed control, 2200kv motor and programing box. If you would like a little less power the 81040220 has the 1800KV motor, with the same as listed above. I would go with the 2200kv.
Man thank you so much for your reply i saved it so i can know what to buy thanks again!!!!
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:26 AM
  #1622  
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Is the motar pretty reliable?
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:32 AM
  #1623  
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I just saw this new dtx offering: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LNCADE&P=G

That esc looks to have a very familiar profile. I think it's a great move for dtx if it is the HW esc under that case.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:51 AM
  #1624  
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Mowingrass: All of the hobbywing products are very reliable. There are many people on this forum that have been using hobbywing for a long time and if you read through some of the pages you will see reliability is a huge plus from peoples experiences.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:39 PM
  #1625  
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I agree with brian! Cannot beat hobbywing reliability. I would go through 5 other 1/8 scale escs from other manufacturers before one hobbywing! Performance is amazing also!
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:53 PM
  #1626  
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As a non sponsored user of HW i must say it is better then all other products i have used... for the quality its below priced!!!! lol
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:52 AM
  #1627  
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Thanks brian and all you guys been doing some reading in this thread one more question will i have to change bearings or anything when i first get it or are they ready to go?
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:10 AM
  #1628  
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Originally Posted by Mowingrass
Thanks brian and all you guys been doing some reading in this thread one more question will i have to change bearings or anything when i first get it or are they ready to go?
The bearings are of a high quality just like the rest of the motor.....
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:59 AM
  #1629  
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As a user financially sponsoring Hobbywing I have to say I'm very happy with my HW motor and ESC.
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:11 AM
  #1630  
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Unhappy Red and green light's flashing, auto sensorless

Hello all
I have the red/green light flashing issue as well with my hobbywing xerun 150 and my Orion Vortex r8. The motor is a Orion Vortex MR8 4 pole. I have also tried it with a Tekin T8 2 pole with another sensor cable. So at the end of the day, 2 different motors, 2 different ESCís, 2 different sensor cables. It will only go sensorless under a load. I can get it to do immediately just by putting a little load on it or simply putting my buggy down on the carpet. I have tried the LVC at 3 volts, aluminum foil around the sensor cable. I have a thunder power 65C so I donít think the battery is the issue. I have e-mailed Hobbywing and they replied with I need to buy a Hobbywing motor The only thing I have not been able to try is disabling thermal protection. When I go to that programming step, it will not allow anything other than 1 meaning (enabled)
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:57 AM
  #1631  
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Originally Posted by babydaddy
Hello all
I have the red/green light flashing issue as well with my hobbywing xerun 150 and my Orion Vortex r8. The motor is a Orion Vortex MR8 4 pole. I have also tried it with a Tekin T8 2 pole with another sensor cable. So at the end of the day, 2 different motors, 2 different ESCís, 2 different sensor cables. It will only go sensorless under a load. I can get it to do immediately just by putting a little load on it or simply putting my buggy down on the carpet. I have tried the LVC at 3 volts, aluminum foil around the sensor cable. I have a thunder power 65C so I donít think the battery is the issue. I have e-mailed Hobbywing and they replied with I need to buy a Hobbywing motor The only thing I have not been able to try is disabling thermal protection. When I go to that programming step, it will not allow anything other than 1 meaning (enabled)
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
My solution for the exact issue -- post #1594
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by skipper_tim
My solution for the exact issue -- post #1594
Thanks a lot for the reply. I have over looked your post previously. I use deans connectors going to a 4s thunder power lipo. Your suggesting I bypass that entirely at least for testing? The ESC is wired directly to the motor with a good solder connection
Thanks
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:41 PM
  #1633  
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I've searched multiple threads and can't find an answer.

I'm running a Losi 22 buggy with a 13.5 ( Novak or Tekin at this time) and need an ESC.

I'm trying to decide between a Hobbywing Xtreme Stock and the Hobbywing Xerun 60A.

We don't run "blinky" . Pretty much as long as its 13.5 you're good and the tracks that I run at pretty much don't "Tech" the cars.

I want an ESC that I can put into a 2wd SCT,4wd buggy, 2wd buggy, basher etc because as we all know, we change cars / classes like we change underwear.


Is there an advantage with one ESC over the other?
Probably should ask if the EzRun 60a would be OK as well.

Last edited by pbTarget; 01-16-2013 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:24 PM
  #1634  
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Originally Posted by babydaddy
Hello all
I have the red/green light flashing issue as well with my hobbywing xerun 150 and my Orion Vortex r8. The motor is a Orion Vortex MR8 4 pole. I have also tried it with a Tekin T8 2 pole with another sensor cable. So at the end of the day, 2 different motors, 2 different ESC’s, 2 different sensor cables. It will only go sensorless under a load. I can get it to do immediately just by putting a little load on it or simply putting my buggy down on the carpet. I have tried the LVC at 3 volts, aluminum foil around the sensor cable. I have a thunder power 65C so I don’t think the battery is the issue. I have e-mailed Hobbywing and they replied with I need to buy a Hobbywing motor The only thing I have not been able to try is disabling thermal protection. When I go to that programming step, it will not allow anything other than 1 meaning (enabled)
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Originally Posted by skipper_tim
My solution for the exact issue -- post #1594
Ok, I have bypassed the deans connector and did a temporary direct solder with the same results. So in other words, everything was direct even the motor to the esc. I have also tried another lipo. I was monitoring my BEC with a multi meter and it was consistently 5.8 volts. I also disconnected my transponder and servo and capacitor just to be sure nothing was causing a problem. I am using a Futaba 4pk. I am thinking of trying another radio.
It is odd that I can’t disable thermal monitoring via onboard programming. I am suspicious of this being the issue. From what I understand, there is a signal that is sent from the motor or esc for thermal protection. I can’t help but to wonder if this is the culprit.
So as of right now…
Tekin Rx8’s catch fire or blow out
Hobbywings last long but can only go sensorless LOL
I race with a couple of people who have programmers, I am going to try to play with the firmware
Thanks for the help so far and (Any) other Ideas would be very appreciated!
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:35 PM
  #1635  
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What are your timing and punch set at?

Timing will affect this. Punch will also affect this.

How does your car run without the sensor cable plugged in at all? I wouldn't even bother running sensored with a low KV motor. I think you may be surprised by how well it runs sensorless.

Try it. I know that isn't the point, but it's just one less thing to fail.

I had the same issue with my Ten Shock Sc411 5200. HW told me the same thing, that it wouldn't work. Well... it works great now. After installing different firmware, then re installing the original firmware, I only got the issue in reverse. Then limited my reverse to 25%, and the problem was gone. Hasn't popped up since, no matter what battery I run.

You might try a smaller pinion too. If it is indeed an error from not being able to meet the amp demand, gearing down will help. I think mine was just a glitch, kind of what yours sounds like. If it's a glitch, it will run perfect with the cable unplugged. If it's an amp supply issue you will still get cogging sensorless.
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