redbones

What does a 13mm rotor do? Does it make it faster or just more torque?

Jamison R

iTrader: (65)

I have a team powers actinium. I'm running it in 12th scale and it has to be push started. When starting the main it just sits there for a few seconds and then starts rolling. Once going it's a fast motor. Just doesn't start off at all. All my other motors work fine. I'm guessing sensor board. Anyone else have this issue? If so any help much appreciated

Jamison R

iTrader: (65)

Changed the sensor wire and same thing. It needs to be push started. Im running 100mm rollout with max timing. Tried less timing and it did nothing to help.

John Wallace2

Could be that or a lot of other things. Check the sensor wire and make sure it is not damaged and check the solder joints at the motors. Both have caused cogging with my motors in the past, as well as bad sensor boards. Also check the current limiter or punch controi on the ESC to make sure you are getting enough current to the motor to get it started.

PS do you have steering when the car is sitting there just before it starts moving?

fx35rc

iTrader: (8)

This actinium motors are fast!! I tried a 17.5 yesterday and its fast like my $130 R1 premium.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I have both and the R1 premium is no where as fast overall in 5 minute main. The Team Powers has slightly more fade near the end of the run but it is still faster lap after lap.

Jamison R

iTrader: (65)

Yes I have steering. Running the hobbywing 1s. Any idea of settings? And my Team Scream works fine with this sensor wire. I have soldered twice. Im 99.9% its sensor board. Just hoping for a little more info.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

The 1s had some cogging issues and such, have you tried updating the firmware on your hw?

Advil

iTrader: (19)

I am not famiar with the HW line of speed controls. PM me your info and I will get you a new sensor board in the mail.

Art

John Wallace2

Yep it does sound like the sensor board. When you said the car just sat there then started up, it sounded like you were getting brown out and the receiver and/or ESC got below it minimum operating voltage and shut off especially with 1C. I've experienced that with my Tekin ESCs and it then takes a few seconds for the ESC to restart before I have motor again. I'm not familiar with the high end HW ESCs either, but if the sensor board doesn't fix the problem check the ESC. BTW I fixed my brown out problem by setting the current limiter on my ESC to 80 amps instead of the default setting of unlimited.

James321

Jamison R Please try turning your throttle curve to custom and changing the bottom to start at 15-20% This should get rid of cogging at bottom end of throttle.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Does the V1, V2, and Actinium use the same sensor board?

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

I've been saying this for so long. The Team Powers motors are definitely right at the top of best spec motors and they are reasonably priced.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

After doing a little bending around of my sensor board my Actinium 17.5 now reads perfect on my motor checker, each phase is exactly the same number of degrees of advance. I wonder if it will help as much as we seem to think...

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Just wondering how you determined which way you had to go. Was this visually, kinda like bending the sensor tabs until it looked right? My motor phases are off a few degrees and I was wondering if it's even with it to try.