Help with hobbywing ESC setup
 

I just installed the 60A Hobbywing ESC and a 17.5T Epic brushless motor. I am getting a delay when I hit full throttle. I have adjusted the punch to most agressive with no change.

The motor says it comes at 0 timing, I have tried differnt timing set ups on the ESC with no change either.

Fully charged Lipo, what am I missing? It's like a split second starts then it cranks up to full throttle, on the gorund it creates kind of a slow cogging type start?

Sensored type motors often use a different type of winding pattern than sensorless motor designs. With a lower resistance, high Kv motor, almost any ESC can power it up smoothly and keep the driver happy. But, when it comes to lower KV, high resistance motors, like a 17.5, most sensorless controllers will have a very hard time starting a sensored motor in this range without cogging. There has been some success stories floating around on the forum, but more often than that you will find many posts similar to yours. Just to be sure, I do suggest checking your connections very closely. The ESC settings can make a small difference, but it sounds like you are having a pretty big cogging issue. Also, make sure you watch temps closely, cogging can heat up a motor to dangerous levels before you know it.

I would suggest picking up a sensorless design motor. You can find them very cheap at places like HObbyPartz.com and they are proven to perform very well. On the proper motor these Hobbywing ESCs are some of the smoothest I have ever driven.

Thanks, I thought about that right after I tried. I have a 13.5T sensorless motor, looks like I am moving up a class in racing.

As far as I know "EZ" runs do not support brushless motors. I can tell you from experence that that ESC paired with a quality sensorless motor is as smooth as any sensored set up. But if you look over the specs of sensorless ESC's you'll see that many of them support sensored motors, but according to the manual it only states "sensorless".
This is cut & copied from the manual


1.5 Motor Supported: Sensorless Brushless Motor

No mention of sensorless. Im not 100% shure it wont work. Ive read that some sensorless ESCs do support sensored and some do not. But Ive read where people have ran Novaks with Ezruns. If theres a pause before it goes forward maybe switch your throttle in the other direction on your TX and switch 2 of the 3 motor wires. Actually that sounds like it could work. It has a few second stall before it goes in reverse. So try that.

I will try that and report back as I just put a sensorless matching hobbywing 13.5 hobbywing motor in and same problem.

Well I'm stumped. I tried the reversing throttle trick no luck. I am running a sensorless motor in it so that should not be an issue now. Delayed full throttle still. It has good partial throttle no cogging, I am talking when you stab the throttle full right away, I get the delay.

Radio adjustment perhaps? I am still learning all of those, its an Airtronic MX-3X.

I think I am going to hook up another LRP sensorless ESC I have and see if I get the same issue.

Do you have more throttle w/o the dlay in reverse?

Yes, just checked, off nuetral there is no delay heading into reverse like there is forward??

And for further clarification at partial throttle no bucking at all and when I slam full throttle off partial no delay. It is only when slamming from neutral position?

are the brakes working normally? Maybe your actually running the esc in reverse, and the motor wires are swapped making it think you are correct.

Brakes are working normal, reverse has the correct double delay when coming off forward throttle as well.

I have also tried reversing motor wires and running radio throttle trim in reverse and normal, same condition either way.

hmm, I am sure you have tried recalibrating it to the tx, but throwing that out there. What if you try trimming the neutral until it start to move, then backing if off just a click or two so it will sit still, and punch it? I have had 2 out of probably 15 of the ezruns that acted funny. When you slam the throttle wide open, they would just sit there like they didn't react to the throttle input at all. The leds wouldn't respond or anything. It was only a slam from a dead stop. If you eased into it a tad it would take off fine, no cogging. Have you messed with any of the timing, or punch control settings?

I have recalibrated several times. The throttle trim is as you say right before it moves but that does not seem to affect it.

LED's all reading correctly at various inputs. Its not as bad as whay you describe in that it resonds just slowly before it gets it hole head of steam going.

I have tried various throttle punch settings as well :weird:

Im almost shure you are runnng it backwards. Try calabarating it backwards maybe...:confused:. I have had several Ezruns and Xeruns and this sounds like your backwards, Im shure of it!

Can you clarify what you mean by running it backwards? I have tried reversing motor wires, the throttle on my transmitter, what else is there?

I've only been swapping the outside wired, A &C, should the instructions say you swap any two?

Thanks for your help

I mean that in forward it runs full throttle and theres a pause befor the ESC will go in reverse and the defult is 50% throttle force. So when you say it runs without delay and fast in reverse, but theres a delay in forward and if its not quite as fast then its backwards. URGG...I wish you where right down the street and Id have you all squared up! Im going to PM you my phone number. Maybe I could be of more help while talking directly to you! Call me! YGPM;)

Hey any luck here?

If you have a Futaba, or a rebranded Futaba (comes with some RTRs), you will want throttle reversed on your controller. Most other brands should be in the normal position. Dont forget that every time you switch throttle direction, you must re-calibrate the ESC to your throttle position. After calibration if it moves backwards you switch any two motor wires. If you have any throttle settings such as end points on your radio you will want those at 100% before calibration.

No luck yet, it's an Airtronics MX-3X which has adjustments for everything and everything.

When you say 100% on end points which specifically, I cleared all the settings to a standard default on the radio to make sure nothing I set was odd.

I read a couple old threads that say this delay may be normal while the ESC energizes and figures out where the rotor is. I have other sensorless ESC's that do not do this though or at least at a level so low I can't tell.

maybe ur battery cannot give the instant punch to the motor?

try reflash your esc too

Default should be right on, just make sure you have completed calibration after you reset the radio.

You should not notice any delay, just like with your other sensorless controllers. I have used almost every brand available of sensored and sensorless and the EZRun should be as quick and smooth off the line as any.

Aside from setup, there are only a few other options: I see poor connections cause most problems, weak batteries, and faulty equipment are other possible causes. If you have other motors or ESCs available to test that would be a good idea to eliminate any potential problems.

Recalibrate your radio. This time with your throttle set 95%.

Works like a charm for me.

solution
 

After having the same issue today, it's led me here and I have figured it out. Hopefully can help others.
The problem is your sensor lead. It's either:-

A. Not plugged in the right way.
B. Not plugged in all the way.
C. Damaged (not likely).

Solution:-
A. (Make sure it's plugged in the right way).
There is a small locating tab on each side of both plugs. They slot into the motor and esc. It's possible to push the plug in the wrong way. Look closely.
B. (Make sure the plug is pushed in all the way). You can use a small flat blade screw driver to carefully push it in all the way, pushing on either side of the plug.
C. Try another sensor lead.

When I unplugged the the lead, the esc characteristics did not change. That's when I thought it may be the problem. Trying another lead, making sure it was in the right way and fully in, it worked. So I plugged in the original lead, making sure, right way and pushed in fully and presto, all good. 👍

You're replying to a 10 year old thread.