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Old 03-19-2014, 01:21 PM   #1456
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BRCA 1/12 National Series Round 6 (Saturday)
Keith Robertson TQs and Wins LMP12/13.5 class with the VTX1 by one whole lap on the field!! Viper Team Driver Kevin Creaser finishing in 6th place. In the LMP12/10.5 class Viper driver Adam Catchpole would finish 5th overall, turning the fastest lap of the A Final.

BRCA 1/12 National Series Round 6 (Sunday)
Keith Robertson would return to qualify 2ndoverall and Win the LMP12 Sport class. In the LMP12 Open Modified class Adam Catchpole qualified 2nd and finished 2nd overall. Moving him to 4th in the final series standings.

Canadian On-Road National Championships.
Viper Team Driver Mark Smyka would use the VTX1 to TQ and win the 1/12 17.5 class. As well as being TQ and winning the 13.5 World GT Class.

https://www.facebook.com/notes/viper...19591074778110
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:43 PM   #1457
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Hey Nikos,
Will the "Motor Error Detection Code" on the new A64 firmware save the esc if the motor fails from an internal short? Running blinky 17.5 in TC with a VTX10R-BE. Also, is the VTX10 fan kit helpful for those running spec classes or just mod? IOW, will the ESC give better performance (say 4 minutes into a main) with the ESC fan even in blinky 17.5?
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:27 PM   #1458
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Can you buy all the cables on the viper's website?
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Old 03-20-2014, 06:08 AM   #1459
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How does the 21.5 motor fair in F1 foam blinky or even 1/12 blinky?

I found a motor that's 1/2 price here and Japan and wondering whether or not to scoop it up.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:29 AM   #1460
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I need to change the motor wires on my VTX-1. They are to short to run the battery transverse. So I had a couple of questions.

What kind of solder do you guys use to install the factory wires? Good old lead type or the crappy lead free?
The lead free crap seems way harder to desolder than the old lead type.
What iron, tip and temperature do you recommend to uninstall the factory wires?

I don't want to overheat the board and blow something up.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:37 AM   #1461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
I need to change the motor wires on my VTX-1. They are to short to run the battery transverse. So I had a couple of questions.

What kind of solder do you guys use to install the factory wires? Good old lead type or the crappy lead free?
The lead free crap seems way harder to desolder than the old lead type.
What iron, tip and temperature do you recommend to uninstall the factory wires?

I don't want to overheat the board and blow something up.
my guess is lead free due to regulations. Get some silver bearing solder from radioshack to reapply the new wires.

The biggest thing is to get a nice superhot tip on there for as short as possible. I run 16 awg in my pan and switched out the wire from the vtx1 so it left the cups at an angle.
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:48 AM   #1462
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d16dcoe45 - yes, that is the idea, to protect the esc from a spike coming from the motor or motor sensor.

racer034life - yes, but I am not allowed to type the link as it would be considered advertising (but you can check my sig)

EDWARD2003 - our VST motors are torque based not RPM based. So the simple answer is they run good, but gearing is very different from Torque based motors. I used the VST 21.5 to be in the F1 A Main at IIC and Snowbirds 2 years ago.

patorz31 - Baja is right, need a nice hot iron to effectives get the wires off, you want to do it one quick motion, or at worst several short ones. We do use an industrial solder, so it is nice and solid. Don't get too crazy over wire sizes - its not like the old NiMH days were ever bit of resistance mattered. Sometimes larger wire helps.....
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:14 PM   #1463
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Only wire I really dig using nowadays is TQ 13g black. Super flexible and nice and thin silicone coat but still enough enough copper to handle mod TC. Only issue I found is to very lightly tin, if you tin it too long it will suck up the wire and make it stiff.

Also, try to find 63/37 lead solder, it has a slightly lower melting point than "standard" 60/40 electronic solder. And don' rely on the rosin core, always add extra rosin before you solder.

I don't know what solder Viper uses at the factory but it has a pretty high melting point so you BETTER have a serious iron before you attempt to remove the factory wire. No 40 watt cone tip Radio Shack iron or you will be smelling some nasty odors coming from your VTX esc!!
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Old 03-20-2014, 06:02 PM   #1464
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"Our VST motors are torque based not RPM based. So the simple answer is they run good, but gearing is very different from Torque based motors. I used the VST 21.5 to be in the F1 A Main at IIC and Snowbirds 2 years ago."

Did you mean "gearing is very different from Torque based motors" RPM not Torque.

What's a decent roll out and timing point for your motors for F1 and 1/12?

Thanks for your prompted reply.
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Old 03-21-2014, 01:16 PM   #1465
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Edward - yes, sorry, fingers working faster than brain.

You would need a larger pinion on a VST motor to get a similar speed, but that changes rollout overall. We would even generally admit that in spec classes, motors are more for off road than on road in current configuration and against the "spec" that others are running.

I would have to go back and find my notes from F1 but 98-35 stands out in my mind. Don't hold me to it.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:39 PM   #1466
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Multi-Time IFMAR World Champion Marc Rheinard joins Xpert R/C

http://www.rcnews.net/2014/03/24/mar...joins-xpert-rc
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:13 PM   #1467
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Anything new coming from Viper in the near future? I am in the need of some new motors but I am willing to wait if you have something new coming.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:41 PM   #1468
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How long do you consider soon???
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:34 PM   #1469
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Our outdoor season starts in May (hopefully). So hopefully by then.
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:20 PM   #1470
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I installed my viper today. Very very nice machine. But i have a few questions

first of all. It is installed in an xb4. You have a little bar where the wires go under from escto motor. But with the cables under that and the esc taped on the chassis, The wires and poles are stressed. I don't know if the poles could damaged bend or ruined because of this?

My second thinking about it. The poles are very close to each other. When they're stressed they maybe bend a bit and touch each other? Now it is good and works. But i don't know if when landing a high jump they maybe get a shock and touches each other? Is that possible?

Really wan't to make sure. Because my previous lasted for 3 laps and broke...

Thanks so much !
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