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Old 11-12-2012, 06:30 PM   #1216
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Originally Posted by Fast410 View Post
Hi guys I have the viper vtx10 can not get it to calibrate to futaba 4pks,it goes into calibration mode but no beeps when you pull the trigger or brakes,I have throttle set to 100 percent and brakes to 100 ,the tekin i ran calibrates fine this viper will not any help would be great,also the drag brake does not work at all
Try a different model number on the radio or move the throttle trim up or down 2-4 clicks and re-calibrate. I have a 4pks as well and one of my model #'s does that unless I add a little "trim". Its the radio not holding a consistent neutral point, so the ESC doesn't know where to program it at. PM me is you have any other questions.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:13 PM   #1217
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Try a different model number on the radio or move the throttle trim up or down 2-4 clicks and re-calibrate. I have a 4pks as well and one of my model #'s does that unless I add a little "trim". Its the radio not holding a consistent neutral point, so the ESC doesn't know where to program it at. PM me is you have any other questions.
ok thanks i will try it i love the esc just figured it had to be something i was overlooking thats why i asked on this thread
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:44 PM   #1218
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Got it to calibrate took a few times but it is good now cant wait to try it at the track thanks for the help..
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:02 PM   #1219
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I am having trouble with a recently purchased (end of October 2012) VTX1 that I am trying to run in Mod 12th. I purchased it after recommendation from Josh at IIC, and figured it would be good to try in mod.

The first time I ran it everything was ok, although I did have an issue where right at the end of 8 minutes the ESC stopped providing power to the motor (steering was still working, lights on the on/off switch were on). However, pressing the on/off button wasn't doing anything, the ESC remained on until I physically unplugged the battery. The ESC was ~170 degrees, well below the ~190 number that Josh mentioned at Vegas his was coming off at.

Today I ran it in three races, each 8 minutes long. In the first one the speedo worked well, and came off at 180 degrees. Second run the speedo died right at the finish again, same symptoms as the previous time (~170 degrees, power button wasn't turning off the speedo, etc). In the last run the speedo started fine, but after about 2 minutes or so it kept randomly dying. Power would completely turn off to the entire car (no steering, no throttle), and no lights on the on/off switch. Give it a couple seconds and the ESC came back and the car worked. Eventually, though (4 minutes of this or so), the car shut off completely and wouldn't come back. I now cannot get the speedo to turn on at all. I have tried with multiple 1s batteries and a single 2s battery (to see if it was a voltage issue), and none of them have worked. No lights, no power, nothing.

I cannot tell whether it is a faulty on/off switch, or whether there is something wrong with the speedo itself. The behaviour while racing indicates the speedo, but when using the progauge to set up the speedo, the on/off button was not correctly registering my 1-second button presses.

For reference, I am running an LRP 4T motor. No boost in the speedo, and a completely normal rollout. I was given the impression at vegas that ~190 degrees was perfectly fine for this speedo, and I know Josh wasn't using a fan with his. As such, I am a little perplexed why with a 4t and no boost (nothing crazy) the speedo is having so many issues.

Anybody have any ideas? At this point I can't do anything with the speedo, as the progauge relies on battery power...if only I could use a pc usb cable too!

Thanks for any and all help!
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:27 AM   #1220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I am having trouble with a recently purchased (end of October 2012) VTX1 that I am trying to run in Mod 12th. I purchased it after recommendation from Josh at IIC, and figured it would be good to try in mod.

The first time I ran it everything was ok, although I did have an issue where right at the end of 8 minutes the ESC stopped providing power to the motor (steering was still working, lights on the on/off switch were on). However, pressing the on/off button wasn't doing anything, the ESC remained on until I physically unplugged the battery. The ESC was ~170 degrees, well below the ~190 number that Josh mentioned at Vegas his was coming off at.

Today I ran it in three races, each 8 minutes long. In the first one the speedo worked well, and came off at 180 degrees. Second run the speedo died right at the finish again, same symptoms as the previous time (~170 degrees, power button wasn't turning off the speedo, etc). In the last run the speedo started fine, but after about 2 minutes or so it kept randomly dying. Power would completely turn off to the entire car (no steering, no throttle), and no lights on the on/off switch. Give it a couple seconds and the ESC came back and the car worked. Eventually, though (4 minutes of this or so), the car shut off completely and wouldn't come back. I now cannot get the speedo to turn on at all. I have tried with multiple 1s batteries and a single 2s battery (to see if it was a voltage issue), and none of them have worked. No lights, no power, nothing.

I cannot tell whether it is a faulty on/off switch, or whether there is something wrong with the speedo itself. The behaviour while racing indicates the speedo, but when using the progauge to set up the speedo, the on/off button was not correctly registering my 1-second button presses.

For reference, I am running an LRP 4T motor. No boost in the speedo, and a completely normal rollout. I was given the impression at vegas that ~190 degrees was perfectly fine for this speedo, and I know Josh wasn't using a fan with his. As such, I am a little perplexed why with a 4t and no boost (nothing crazy) the speedo is having so many issues.

Anybody have any ideas? At this point I can't do anything with the speedo, as the progauge relies on battery power...if only I could use a pc usb cable too!

Thanks for any and all help!
From what i know, if your ESC is resetting it has nothing to do with motor turn or runtime. It could be a faulty BEC or the receiver browning out due to low voltage. You might want to test running a receiver pack and see if that helps solve the problem. IF it still happens then i would suggest going through Viper RMA and send it in for warranty.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:49 AM   #1221
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
However, pressing the on/off button wasn't doing anything, the ESC remained on until I physically unplugged the battery.!
I've had issues with turning my vipers off when the centre on my radio drifts (you see the F/N/R flicking or not on N). Just clicked the trim up or down a bit and it turns off using the button after that.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:06 AM   #1222
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LloydLoar - Where is your low voltage cut-off set at?? This sounds more like the trouble to me where the speed control is kicking in "lipo protection" when you get the battery down to lower voltage. I had this problem initially and then with the lower voltage cut it was no problem.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:20 AM   #1223
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Chris - Awesome to hear, glad you like it!!

Luppi - What motor are you using?? I would think that 35t would be too low for the gear. Honestly, I would guess more 38-44t would be proper depending on your motor timing and track size. You should see motor temperature in the 170-185F (2s lipo correct?). Higer PWM (16k) should make more top speed but you will loose punch. I know in 17.5, we have ranged from 8k-16k PWM depending on the punch we need while maintaining the gear for the top speed. If you are at 35t, try 38t and see if the punch is ok - If yes and temp is under the 170-185F then try more gear. If the punch is not enough and temp is under the 170F-185F, then try lower PWM (maybe 8-12k) and check agian. You just have to make a balance of the top speed/punch with the correct gearing/PWM and motor timing.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:55 AM   #1224
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Luppi how big of a track i ran my f1 last week in foam with a 21.5 2s and i was geared at 110/36 on a track 64/40 i know in vegas with rubber tires and bigger track we were at 110/38 just so you know ..

also what motor was it a viper or another brand ? that will help with gearing
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:24 AM   #1225
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Originally Posted by ARC USA View Post
From what i know, if your ESC is resetting it has nothing to do with motor turn or runtime. It could be a faulty BEC or the receiver browning out due to low voltage. You might want to test running a receiver pack and see if that helps solve the problem. IF it still happens then i would suggest going through Viper RMA and send it in for warranty.
I have tried plugging the speedo into a 2s pack and it still won't turn on, so I am not convinced that it is an issue that a receiver pack would solve. I have one I can test with, though, so I might give that a shot. Thanks for the help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
I've had issues with turning my vipers off when the centre on my radio drifts (you see the F/N/R flicking or not on N). Just clicked the trim up or down a bit and it turns off using the button after that.
Hmm I will have to check that out once I get the speedo to actually turn on

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
LloydLoar - Where is your low voltage cut-off set at?? This sounds more like the trouble to me where the speed control is kicking in "lipo protection" when you get the battery down to lower voltage. I had this problem initially and then with the lower voltage cut it was no problem.
Hi Josh, this is Chris Hillier. My low-voltage is set to 3.0v right now. My batteries are coming off at 3.6v after 8 minutes of mod, so I don't think it is a low voltage cut-off issue. I have also tested it with a 2s pack and the speedo still doesn't turn on. I had originally thought the cutting-out issue might be related to voltage, but at this point I can't even get the speedo to turn on to test it out, and with the batteries coming off quite a bit higher than the cut-off, I am not convinced. Thanks for the help, please let me know if you have any other ideas.

FYI, the profile I was using on the speedo was #6 (on-road mod, no boost) but with 20% drag brake.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:10 AM   #1226
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
Chris - Awesome to hear, glad you like it!!

Luppi - What motor are you using?? I would think that 35t would be too low for the gear. Honestly, I would guess more 38-44t would be proper depending on your motor timing and track size. You should see motor temperature in the 170-185F (2s lipo correct?). Higer PWM (16k) should make more top speed but you will loose punch. I know in 17.5, we have ranged from 8k-16k PWM depending on the punch we need while maintaining the gear for the top speed. If you are at 35t, try 38t and see if the punch is ok - If yes and temp is under the 170-185F then try more gear. If the punch is not enough and temp is under the 170F-185F, then try lower PWM (maybe 8-12k) and check agian. You just have to make a balance of the top speed/punch with the correct gearing/PWM and motor timing.
I use Viper VST 17.5, 35 timing, on F1 Chassis, Foam Tires 53-52mm, 2s Shorty, track is 30x20, but it is full thottle curve + straight, very fast!
I try with this tips! I will definitely be useful for 13.5 blinky class and F1 Rubber
Thanks Josh and smyka!
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:47 PM   #1227
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luppi any time i will be doing some more f1 and sedan testing this weekend since i am not able to do us indoor champs due to work so i will have some other info monday for you
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:01 PM   #1228
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Mark - use Carissa's v2 F1 car and get me a set up!!!!!!
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:50 PM   #1229
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30x20 (meters) = 100' x 65' - Just so you know Mark...lol... Luppi is looking for 17.5 Blinky gear - Were you running 21.5 blinky or boost?
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:08 PM   #1230
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luppi any time i will be doing some more f1 and sedan testing this weekend since i am not able to do us indoor champs due to work so i will have some other info monday for you
thanks!
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