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Old 09-18-2012, 06:20 PM   #1066
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It starts from when you release the throttle until it hits the target rpm, then will switch to regular drag brake.

The curve is where you are positioning the braking or throttle power. Like moving the power curve up and down. Different from the expo on your radio with just mellows out the throw, this is really moving the curve.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:26 PM   #1067
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Originally Posted by smyka View Post
as for push to drag brake i know they are different thats why i said how tekin came up with it to get rid of the nasty turbo lag they had when comming out of the timing function if you lifted all the way from full boost your car would feel like you down shifted from 5th to 2nd and push control kinda fixed that .

mark smyka
Well it evolved into that...the push control was out previous to BL back in the brushed motor days to counter act the natural braking in the brushed motors. The FX had it before the RS was even out.
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:01 PM   #1068
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Originally Posted by nikos2002 View Post
It starts from when you release the throttle until it hits the target rpm, then will switch to regular drag brake.

The curve is where you are positioning the braking or throttle power. Like moving the power curve up and down. Different from the expo on your radio with just mellows out the throw, this is really moving the curve.
I just took a look at the A55 User manual.

"A Smart Brake System set up example:
We set Trigger RPM at 15000 with Max Brake Strength at 15% and Drag
Brake at 5%. When the throttle is released, the system detects the motor
is at 25000 RPM. The Smart Brake System will kick in with drag brake
strength 15%. When the RPM drops to 15000, the Smart Brake System
will start decreasing motor RPM progressively with drag brake force from
15 (Max Brake Strength) down to 5% (Drag Brake) and this is based on
the Dynamic Curve parameter setting.
The key parameter is the trigger RPM. It is motor RPM and track layout
dependent. A good set Smart Brake System set up will assist you to have
more precise cornering and moreover to reduce lap time."

That's a much, much better explanation than last time I looked.

So, EXP+ would make it so that braking strength stays closer to Max Brake Strength longer as RPMs drop? And EXP- would make the drag brake drop off faster as RPMs drop?

I'll have to play with it again. I haven't messed with it since sometime last year.

-Mike
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:11 PM   #1069
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Default Spliting the case

I would like to replace the receiver wire in my VTX1. How do you take apart the case?

Thanks Greg G
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:50 AM   #1070
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the case is really not designed to be taken apart. it would also void any warranties if it was opened.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:20 AM   #1071
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the case is really not designed to be taken apart. it would also void any warranties if it was opened.
This is one of the few things that I don't like about my Viper ESCs. I like for my wiring to be nice and neat with specific length wires running between my components. With the VTX-1 in my 12th scale and WGT, I have a bunch of servo wire bundled up and zip-tied. It looks pretty hack compared to when I had other ESCs in those cars. Maybe you guys should look at using a shorter lead wire on the 1s speed controllers since they're meant for chassis that are usually confined in regards to electronics space?

My second complaint is the location of the sensor wire port. What sadistic person chose that location? Every time I'm at the track and see another Viper owner changing out a sensor wire, I'm guaranteed that I'll hear quite a few explicatives being uttered.

My only other gripe is that it's necessary to have a battery in the car and the ESC turned on in order to change any settings. It's nice to be able to tune your ESC while your battery is charging between races. I do this all the time with my Hotwire/Tekin ESCs since the programming device provides power to the ESC when plugged in. Maybe a revised Pro Gauge that has its own battery source (12v lithium button cell?) to power up the ESC while changing settings would be possible in the future?
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:30 AM   #1072
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Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
This is one of the few things that I don't like about my Viper ESCs. I like for my wiring to be nice and neat with specific length wires running between my components. With the VTX-1 in my 12th scale and WGT, I have a bunch of servo wire bundled up and zip-tied. It looks pretty hack compared to when I had other ESCs in those cars. Maybe you guys should look at using a shorter lead wire on the 1s speed controllers since they're meant for chassis that are usually confined in regards to electronics space?

My second complaint is the location of the sensor wire port. What sadistic person chose that location? Every time I'm at the track and see another Viper owner changing out a sensor wire, I'm guaranteed that I'll hear quite a few explicatives being uttered.

My only other gripe is that it's necessary to have a battery in the car and the ESC turned on in order to change any settings. It's nice to be able to tune your ESC while your battery is charging between races. I do this all the time with my Hotwire/Tekin ESCs since the programming device provides power to the ESC when plugged in. Maybe a revised Pro Gauge that has its own battery source (12v lithium button cell?) to power up the ESC while changing settings would be possible in the future?
Just buy a pack of Futaba plugs, the sensor cable is not that hard to change. Line it up push it a tiny bit in and do the rest with a 1.5mm.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:02 AM   #1073
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Default Receiver wire change

I understand about voiding the warranty with opening the case, but the issue is I shortened the cable already by changing the plug. I have now changed radios and need to change the receiver plug again. I don't have enough lead coming from the speed control now to reach the new receiver location.

What should I do?

Thanks Greg G
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:15 AM   #1074
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Originally Posted by Swampracer View Post
I understand about voiding the warranty with opening the case, but the issue is I shortened the cable already by changing the plug. I have now changed radios and need to change the receiver plug again. I don't have enough lead coming from the speed control now to reach the new receiver location.

What should I do?

Thanks Greg G
It's a bit sloppy, but you could buy or make a short extension cable.

-Mike
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:44 AM   #1075
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An extension cable is an option but I prefer one lead.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:38 AM   #1076
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An extension cable is an option but I prefer one lead.
I'm with you on that one...I wish more companies were making ESCs and servos with replaceable leads.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:48 PM   #1077
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I forget the name of the company (bought at stormer), but it's just the pins. You can shorten the wire and put on new pins. Just re-apply the plug.

Sensor wire question- never looked at it as an issue. How often are you replacing sensor wires? I very rarely replace them (my experience).

ProGauge question- the idea of the ProGauge was so you didn't need a whole computer set up to make the adjustment, and it could be done quickly trackside. Adding batteries making it bigger, complicates the work and the process (what if that battery dies?).

Thanks for the feedback though everyone. It's always interesting to see what people want. You never know what changes happen in the future.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:49 PM   #1078
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:55 PM   #1079
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I appreciate the feedback, but I have already shortened the receiver wire. I need a longer wire now, because of a new radio, receiver and receiver location in the car.

Just wanted to know how to open the case? Oh well. I guess I will go back to using last year's speed control
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:31 PM   #1080
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Originally Posted by Swampracer View Post
I appreciate the feedback, but I have already shortened the receiver wire. I need a longer wire now, because of a new radio, receiver and receiver location in the car.

Just wanted to know how to open the case? Oh well. I guess I will go back to using last year's speed control
What I would do is buy of pigtail with whatever servo lead you are using. Take the pins out of the servo lead attached to the speedo and then remove them leaving exposed wire. Then carefully, using low heat and a little bit of solder; solder each of the three tiny wires together individually from the speedo to the pigtail. Tidy it up by putting a tiny piece of heatshrink around each solder joint, then press all three heatshrinked joint together in a triangle of sorts and put one big piece of heatshrink around all three. I have used this same method on my speedos and servos. The solder joints conduct the electricity no problem, it looks tidy, and you can lengthen and shorten the wires at will. I do agree though, servos and speedos with removeable leads to put in whatever lead for your application would be sweet.
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