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#1021
Shoots, I ordered tires this am and forgot about ordering the usb cable.
Did yours come with the 2 caps or the square on like Goots has?
#1022
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
If you want to change your firmware, you'll need the V-Link PC device that connects your ESC to your computer's USB port, and the V-Link Software.
Here are the instructions: http://www.viper-rc.com/pclink/updat...STRUCTIONS.pdf
#1023
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
If you got a Black Edition unit it will have the latest software. Otherwise you might want to check to be sure - can't speak for how quickly some retailers are turning them over - although the biggies keep ordering more, so they are selling them.
As stated before, you can check when the ProGauge links.
As stated before, you can check when the ProGauge links.
#1025
Tech Adept
this is was my setup both for a 10.5 and 13.5 motor:
Brake:
Strength: 100%
pwm freq.: 2500 hz
curve: linear
Dinamic brake:
trigger rpm: 11000
max brake strength: 25%
dinamic curve: linear
Throttle:
pwm frequency: 2500 hz
punch: 100%
curve: linear
dead band: narrow
Drag brake: 15%
Motor power:
acceleration boost
start rpm: 5000
finish rpm: 15000
max timing: 25°
Top speed timing:
slew rate: 15°/0,1
max timing: 25°
Ciao
Max
#1027
Tech Adept
Ciao Mike,
i was running 6,43 as fdr, re motor timing i was using an hobby wing motor with no motor timing on end bell:-)); for yr guidance max motor temp 54°celsius.
Ciao
Max
i was running 6,43 as fdr, re motor timing i was using an hobby wing motor with no motor timing on end bell:-)); for yr guidance max motor temp 54°celsius.
Ciao
Max
#1028
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Thanks again for the setup! It worked flawlessly! I ran it at about 6.6 fdr, with the motor at "N". It stayed around 110F earlier when it was still fairly cool outside, and got up to about 150F later when the air was much hotter and I was pushing it harder. I didn't have any trouble keeping up with the people running real mod motors.
-Mike
-Mike
#1030
Tech Champion
Ok I was running my VTX1 in 1/2th and noticed the ESC gets rather warm. We're running 13.5 blinky so I wouldn't expect it to work the ESC much even on the highest pulse width. I temped the ESC at 150ish in one of the runs which concerns me. My RS never even gets warm to the touch running in 1/12th yet my VTX1 even with its heat sink aluminum case gets up to 150ish running 1 cell 13.5 blinky? Is this normal? It just doesn't seem right to me.
#1032
Tech Champion
Oh I understand that is what the aluminum heat sink case is for...it just seems odd to me that an ESC with a plastic case and no heat sinks generates almost no heat in 1s 13.5 blinky but this one gets as warm as the motor. I am noticing a performance drop off at about 2mins into the race. I'm thinking it might be charger related at this point since I have changed motors, batteries, ESCs, and even the radio. But before I go buying a new charger I want to rule some things out...so the question is...is it normal for the VTX1 to get that warm running 1s 13.5 blinky? If it is that is fine...if it isn't then I need to figure out what is going on with the ESC.
#1033
Tech Adept
Thanks again for the setup! It worked flawlessly! I ran it at about 6.6 fdr, with the motor at "N". It stayed around 110F earlier when it was still fairly cool outside, and got up to about 150F later when the air was much hotter and I was pushing it harder. I didn't have any trouble keeping up with the people running real mod motors.
-Mike
-Mike
happy to read your comment, anyway did you made any change?, if yes what did you change?