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Old 09-03-2012, 08:22 PM   #1021
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I just got mine about a week ago...does it have the latest software on it? How do I tell what version it is? I have another on the way for my WGT car
Follow the instructions to get the esc into programming mode, plug in Pro Gauge and link to esc. When succesfully linked it will show the version.

Shoots, I ordered tires this am and forgot about ordering the usb cable.

Did yours come with the 2 caps or the square on like Goots has?
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:32 PM   #1022
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I just got mine about a week ago...does it have the latest software on it? How do I tell what version it is? I have another on the way for my WGT car
When you Link the ESC to the ProGuage, the first screen after linking tells you the current firmware version on your ESC. Instructions for the proguage: http://www.viper-rc.com/downloads/Vi...ser_manual.pdf

If you want to change your firmware, you'll need the V-Link PC device that connects your ESC to your computer's USB port, and the V-Link Software.
Here are the instructions: http://www.viper-rc.com/pclink/updat...STRUCTIONS.pdf
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:27 PM   #1023
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If you got a Black Edition unit it will have the latest software. Otherwise you might want to check to be sure - can't speak for how quickly some retailers are turning them over - although the biggies keep ordering more, so they are selling them.

As stated before, you can check when the ProGauge links.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:17 AM   #1024
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Can anyone recommend a good starting point for:
Vtx10 EDIT: still on a30
ballistic 10.5 boosted
4wd TC
Roughly 120x60 ft asphalt
Big yeah racing fan on motor
No fan on esc

Usually a moderately technical but flowing layout. Not a lot of hairpins.

-Mike
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:42 AM   #1025
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Can anyone recommend a good starting point for:
Vtx10 EDIT: still on a30
ballistic 10.5 boosted
4wd TC
Roughly 120x60 ft asphalt
Big yeah racing fan on motor
No fan on esc

Usually a moderately technical but flowing layout. Not a lot of hairpins.

-Mike
Ciao Mike,

this is was my setup both for a 10.5 and 13.5 motor:

Brake:
Strength: 100%
pwm freq.: 2500 hz
curve: linear

Dinamic brake:
trigger rpm: 11000
max brake strength: 25%
dinamic curve: linear

Throttle:
pwm frequency: 2500 hz
punch: 100%
curve: linear
dead band: narrow

Drag brake: 15%

Motor power:
acceleration boost
start rpm: 5000
finish rpm: 15000
max timing: 25°

Top speed timing:
slew rate: 15°/0,1
max timing: 25°

Ciao
Max
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:44 AM   #1026
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Thanks, what about gearing and motor timing?

-Mike
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Old 09-07-2012, 03:58 AM   #1027
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Ciao Mike,
i was running 6,43 as fdr, re motor timing i was using an hobby wing motor with no motor timing on end bell:-)); for yr guidance max motor temp 54°celsius.

Ciao
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:39 PM   #1028
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Thanks again for the setup! It worked flawlessly! I ran it at about 6.6 fdr, with the motor at "N". It stayed around 110F earlier when it was still fairly cool outside, and got up to about 150F later when the air was much hotter and I was pushing it harder. I didn't have any trouble keeping up with the people running real mod motors.

-Mike
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:24 PM   #1029
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Thanks Max!!!
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:59 AM   #1030
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Ok I was running my VTX1 in 1/2th and noticed the ESC gets rather warm. We're running 13.5 blinky so I wouldn't expect it to work the ESC much even on the highest pulse width. I temped the ESC at 150ish in one of the runs which concerns me. My RS never even gets warm to the touch running in 1/12th yet my VTX1 even with its heat sink aluminum case gets up to 150ish running 1 cell 13.5 blinky? Is this normal? It just doesn't seem right to me.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:59 AM   #1031
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Shouldn't be an issue, the Aluminum casing on the VTX1 is there to draw heat off the circuit board. Rather have the case get hot, than any heat just sit on the circuit board. Performance is always the biggest measure.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:42 PM   #1032
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Oh I understand that is what the aluminum heat sink case is for...it just seems odd to me that an ESC with a plastic case and no heat sinks generates almost no heat in 1s 13.5 blinky but this one gets as warm as the motor. I am noticing a performance drop off at about 2mins into the race. I'm thinking it might be charger related at this point since I have changed motors, batteries, ESCs, and even the radio. But before I go buying a new charger I want to rule some things out...so the question is...is it normal for the VTX1 to get that warm running 1s 13.5 blinky? If it is that is fine...if it isn't then I need to figure out what is going on with the ESC.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:58 PM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Thanks again for the setup! It worked flawlessly! I ran it at about 6.6 fdr, with the motor at "N". It stayed around 110F earlier when it was still fairly cool outside, and got up to about 150F later when the air was much hotter and I was pushing it harder. I didn't have any trouble keeping up with the people running real mod motors.

-Mike
Ciao Mike,
happy to read your comment, anyway did you made any change?, if yes what did you change?
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:10 PM   #1034
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Ciao Mike,
happy to read your comment, anyway did you made any change?, if yes what did you change?
Nope, I ran it as-is. It was my first time trying mod. So as soon as I found that the power and temps were good, I focused on trying to get the car to handle.

-Mike
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:11 PM   #1035
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InspGadgt - PM me your settings - lets check to make sure there isnt anything in there that could causing heat (i.e. not efficient set up). Nick
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