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Old 11-14-2011, 06:10 AM   #721
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So when your drift racing?? is it for a period of time or a certain amount of laps??? as you can change your rotors inside the motor for more torque as thats what your after and endbell timing at 15* for more torque and then gear quite tallish to utilize the torque everything is providing..... You can use some neutral brake and some drag brake to smooth the transition between throttle and brake too But if you have a viper speedie set your temp cut off at 210*f to 220*f and that will make the outside of the can of the motor to 165*f to 175* just as long as you use a good fan and heatsink which if your allowed to run use it cause it makes a big difference of about 20 to 30*f on my motor setup with a yeah racing tornado fan which runs off of a spare receiver channel.....

But since your not using full throttle would you like it still to be there above what you would use all the time as you can dial it out with expo on a decent 2.4ghz radio or change the throttle curves on the viper speedie????

Just some more food for thought mate
i will keep all this in mind mate and for now i will adjust the angle to 15* and add fan in my heatsink in the ESC (i already put small heatsink in the esc) and put fan also in the motor. i will set also 200*f in my motor and esc cutoff as i assumed the temp sensor reads from the inside and not outside the can or the outside the esc case. again tnx for the info
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:24 AM   #722
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i will keep all this in mind mate and for now i will adjust the angle to 15* and add fan in my heatsink in the ESC (i already put small heatsink in the esc) and put fan also in the motor. i will set also 200*f in my motor and esc cutoff as i assumed the temp sensor reads from the inside and not outside the can or the outside the esc case. again tnx for the info
Yeah sorry it does read on the sensor board the temp of the motor..... but if you keep the can on the outside at 160*f and below it will run all day and all night and be hasle free for a very long time.... I am only exploring new limits with pushing temps vs reliability so timing and all sorts of things.... I know everything there is to know now just the matter of doing all the testing myself and writting it down as I have spoken to a couple of very knowledgeable with the viper gear so I am all on the right track.....

Anything else just hola....
Fordy
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:15 PM   #723
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I'm having difficulty with the radio calibration process between vtx10r and a radiopost ts401. Anybody have any feedback?
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:10 AM   #724
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I'm having difficulty with the radio calibration process between vtx10r and a radiopost ts401. Anybody have any feedback?

Whats its not doing mate?? more details please
As for some of the vtx's and r versions I have found that when you do your radio calibration you press and hold the power on button until it beeps do dah do dah and the leave it for a short second and then pull full throttle and then it will beep again and then leave it to neutral then push full brake and mine have never made another beep until you leave it go back to neutral.

Then it goes thru its power up mode and happy days thats all with futaba gear and 1 cheap and nasty fly sky haha.....

All the same and always comes up with full brake and throttle....

That is with the original software that they are sent out with too... Not any updates have been done to any of my gear yet as the new software is only good for mod and not yet approved for blinky and stock spec classes yet

Try reversing your servo signals on your transmitter and try to calibrate it to as sometimes that can be a problem as it was with futaba and tekins speedie.

Any other questions fire away
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Old 11-16-2011, 05:37 AM   #725
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It's hitting max throttle and max brake before the trigger has fully traveled. I've re-flashed the firmware and I've hit the red button while holding full throttle and full brake (it works and beeps with throttle but not with brake). It just seems to resist a correct calibration. I'm trying to isolate whether or not it is the radio or the esc.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:50 AM   #726
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Originally Posted by b_recliner View Post
It's hitting max throttle and max brake before the trigger has fully traveled. I've re-flashed the firmware and I've hit the red button while holding full throttle and full brake (it works and beeps with throttle but not with brake). It just seems to resist a correct calibration. I'm trying to isolate whether or not it is the radio or the esc.
when it beeps full throttle let it go back to neutral and thenpush full brake and let it go back to neutral and then the speedo will finish the calibration without the last beep for full brake....

Then when u let the brake go back to neutral it will cycle through its lights and beeping and you will have full brake and throttle...
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:15 AM   #727
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Default 17.5 blinky setting

Hi, i need assist on 17.5 blinky setting. My FDR is 3.2. I'm newbie that couldnt understand wats in the progauge of that PWM etc. Coz in the manual it doesnt explain all those things. Hope that somebody here could help me to set or even better gave an explanation wats in the progauge. Thanks
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:51 AM   #728
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Hi, i need assist on 17.5 blinky setting. My FDR is 3.2. I'm newbie that couldnt understand wats in the progauge of that PWM etc. Coz in the manual it doesnt explain all those things. Hope that somebody here could help me to set or even better gave an explanation wats in the progauge. Thanks
This is in the Manual:

Brake PWM Frequency:
Parameters are 2000Hz / 2500Hz / 3200Hz / 4000Hz / 8000Hz / 12000Hz / 16000Hz PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation and is rated in Hertz, meaning cycles per second. A lower frequency will have a more aggressive braking feel. A higher frequency results in smoother braking, is more precise, and increases the ESC temperature.

Throttle PWM Frequency:
Parameters are 2000Hz / 2500Hz / 3200Hz / 4000Hz / 8000Hz / 12000Hz / 16000Hz PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation and is rated in Hertz, meaning cycles per se-cond. A lower frequency will have a more aggressive throttle feel and have less motor RPM. A higher frequency results in smoother throttle, is more precise, produces more motor RPM, and increases the ESC temperature.

I run mostly boosted, and low turn modified but for me is more than enough 4000Hz, i think is more kind of a feeling on the trigger. Trying to be simple is: high Hz gives you softer feeling and stresses more the ESC and low will give more agressive feeling. New firmwares gives more Hz options to choose.

EDIT: correction made due to work distraction. Thanks Fordy.
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Last edited by jorgesimes; 11-16-2011 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:11 AM   #729
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I run mostly boosted, and low turn modified but for me is more than enough 4000Hz, i think is more kind of a feeling on the trigger. Trying to be simple is: low Hz gives you softer feeling and higher will give more agressive feeling and stresses more the ESC. New firmwares gives more Hz options to choose.


Opposite mate.... lower pwm is more aggressive and more temps created in the motor and harder on the battery...
Higher pwm is nice and smooth with both brake and throttle... but esc does get warmer with higher pwm on throttle as higher rpm is created but if your not smooth on the throttle is will make the esc work harder.... higher pwm for throttle is NOT a replacement for current limiting.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:15 AM   #730
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Originally Posted by hypertunerz View Post
Hi, i need assist on 17.5 blinky setting. My FDR is 3.2. I'm newbie that couldnt understand wats in the progauge of that PWM etc. Coz in the manual it doesnt explain all those things. Hope that somebody here could help me to set or even better gave an explanation wats in the progauge. Thanks
Just wondering running a fdr of 3.2 are you running on a big open track?? Cause with that fdr your endbell timing will be lower aswell...... Otherwise temps will kill you.
Then having a nice smooth car and setup right will help and a decent heatsink and fan but 3,2 fdr is still very very low......

Any other questions fire away
Fordy
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:50 AM   #731
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Default Thanx for the explanation

Thanx a lot bro for the explanation. Been busy recently n will try to set it when have time. Everybody here running FDR around 3.1 to 3.3. Maybe u could suggest me any FDR that i could try. I'm using Team Power motor. Thanx
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:28 PM   #732
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Here is the setup most of the Viper On-Road guys are using. I hope this gives you more options to tune your car.

Brake

brk strength - 100%
brk PMW freq -3000Hz
brk curve - Linear

Drag Brake

Neutral Brk - 10%

Dynamic brk
Trigger RPM - 11000RPM
Max brk strength - 0%
Dynamic curve - Linear

Throttle

Thr PMW freq - 3000Hz
Thr punch - 100%
Thr curve - Exp 1+
DeadBand - Narrow

FDR 3.7 with 45* max timing and fan on the motor can. You can also try using a 12.3mm rotor and this will give you more RPM at the end of the straight. Hope this helps

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Old 11-16-2011, 08:52 PM   #733
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Thanks Ekim628 for the setup. Will give it a try. Thanx again.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:05 PM   #734
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Yup. Its quite big open track with about 30-40 meter street. For Blinky here we are not allowed to play with the motor endbell timing. Its totally zero timing. Perhaps u guys out there can give me more ESC setup suggestion. Thanx guys.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:40 AM   #735
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Have any of you guys tried running a booster for 1s?
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