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-   -   Breaking Servos... 2 Questions (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/415713-breaking-servos-2-questions.html)

G33Kster 07-11-2010 01:36 PM

Breaking Servos... 2 Questions
 
Hey guys,
So I'm now on my second servo in my Evader ST in a little over a month (stripping gears due to a crappy servo saver). I've just been buying the cheap $10 Futaba servos because I'm not made of money and I don't race. Now I'm ready so spend a bit more money (hopefully less than $40), and I have 2 questions...

1. Will a hi-torque servo be less likely to strip gears, or more? Or would a metal-gear servo be my best bet in the never-ending battle against poorly designed servo savers?

2. How do you set up a servo saver properly? Is there a rule of thumb or something?

Thanks in advance :nod:

RC Dad 07-11-2010 06:26 PM

For bashing with your Evader I'd recommend something like a Hitec HS625 or JR 126MG. Both can be had for around $30-40. They have plenty of torque for steering your stadium truck, reasonable speed (.15-.17) and metal gear durability for bashing.

I'd run the servo saver as loose as you can without affecting the steering response. You should be able to force the v-shaped wedge in the saver to move with significant finger pressure but it should not be able to slide completely up and over the crown of the piece it fits into. With the better metal gear servos you can get away with running it tighter

G33Kster 07-11-2010 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by RC Dad (Post 7656914)
For bashing with your Evader I'd recommend something like a Hitec HS625 or JR 126MG. Both can be had for around $30-40. They have plenty of torque for steering your stadium truck, reasonable speed (.15-.17) and metal gear durability for bashing.

I'd run the servo saver as loose as you can without affecting the steering response. You should be able to force the v-shaped wedge in the saver to move with significant finger pressure but it should not be able to slide completely up and over the crown of the piece it fits into. With the better metal gear servos you can get away with running it tighter

Awesome, thanks :nod:. I found the Hitec one used on eBay in good condition for $20, so I think I'll go for it. Thanks so much for your help!

rglamis 07-11-2010 09:29 PM

yeah you cant beat a hitec servo for the price.hs-645mg is a good servo for bashing.little more tq then the 625.either servo you will be happy with.

G33Kster 07-11-2010 09:51 PM

Thanks. Went with the HS625MG and got it off eBay used for 1 weekend for $20 and free shipping. Now I have to get the servo arm set from Tower so I can fit it on my Evader, but I'd rather not pay $5 shipping for a $3 part. Maybe I'll wait until I order from Tower again, and until then I'll try to attach the Hitec to the Futaba spline mount :rolleyes:. I think for a temporary solution I could fill the servo horn with hot glue and then press it onto the servo spline. Sounds like a horrible idea, I know, but I just need something to last me a few weeks at most...

Fas1 07-11-2010 10:46 PM

Good luck with the "junk"..hitec's lower end servos have centering issues, I've gone through enough of them to know this, lower priced servos stick with the JR 590 or the JR 650..I know that the hitec fanboys will be all b hurt, but the truth will come out.

zanernator 07-11-2010 11:56 PM


Originally Posted by RC Dad (Post 7656914)
For bashing with your Evader I'd recommend something like a Hitec HS625 or JR 126MG. Both can be had for around $30-40. They have plenty of torque for steering your stadium truck, reasonable speed (.15-.17) and metal gear durability for bashing.

I'd run the servo saver as loose as you can without affecting the steering response. You should be able to force the v-shaped wedge in the saver to move with significant finger pressure but it should not be able to slide completely up and over the crown of the piece it fits into. With the better metal gear servos you can get away with running it tighter


i use the jr and hitec in my race cars because im cheap and they work good enough


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