drsmooth

iTrader: (33)

Got the switching reg in today. Installed it just a minute ago. Range checked with the antenna down. Walked to the other side of the house ( about 55 feet) with no problems. We'll see how it does at the track this Saturday.
Sorry for the crappy pic.

kamlooper

iTrader: (7)

Im not up on the terminology, or know what they look like.
I guess I could look on scrap pc parts or motherboards?

JOE_COOL

iTrader: (6)

Drsmooth,

I apologize in advance for my ignorance. I have read page 100 and see the multiple firmware versions these TX's can be upgraded to. Basically i wanted to know what's the best all around firmware i can upgrade to - does anything need to be done to TX to apply the firmware update or is it plug and play with usb cable. I currently have a Traxxas Stampede 4X4 VXL i intend on driving with the TX. I am assuming i can use the third channel to activate (turn on/off) some LED lights i have installed.

I am willing to make a donation via paypal for some quick and easy to follow advice on getting the best out of this TX, keeping everything simple, yet precise. No need for crazy trim and throttle settings - just the good ol basics, but at least nice enough to justify why i went with this TX over the Traxxas 2.4 system.

Thanks again for anyone's help - sorry to pin point you drsmooth, i saw the tech under your name, so i trusted you would probably have my answer.

Joe

Mattyhawk

I would suggest you seat the flat side of the VR against the board and give it a touch of glue (welder glue, thick ca, etc). In a hit, like dropping it, it has a higher chance of damage.

BTW: Congrats on the mod.

Mattyhawk

Newest firmware would be your best option. Yes, you have a few things to do to the TX to apply the Firmware.

Here is a step by step: http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5053464

You may just want to take a look at overkill RC, they have everything in a package with instructions: http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5053464

skree

The mods on page 100. lol. flash it with the latest 3 channel firmware - you get access to the crazy settings but you don't have to use them, i won't use half the stuff in that firmware especially the additional channel functions. If you're comfortable soldering 3 or 4 wires to the board and flashing the internal memory, buy the flash kit, then you can do more gt3bs or update your own. if not, some people offer this as a service.

the bearing mod to the steering is a really effective mod and inexpensive too.

8 low self discharge NiMH AAs and you're done. If you can solder, the regulator mod will pretty much double the TX runtime off a charge, make it more reliable but on NiMH batteries it isn't essential.

with ch3 just being an on/off i presume you can use it to power leds but wouldn't know how to wire it, not something i've ever had to do.

drsmooth

iTrader: (33)

No need to apologize. But the word "tech" is under everone's name, it refers to your rctech statis. But thanks for the vote of confidence.

To quote mattyhawk, "Newest firmware would be your best option. Yes, you have a few things to do to the TX to apply the Firmware.

Here is a step by step: http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5053464

You may just want to take a look at overkill RC, they have everything in a package with instructions: http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5053464 "
This would be a good way to go.

Yanisin

if you want just one set of LEDs turned only on and off. you don't need any firmware modifications at all.
you can just take electronics from some servo and solder out the motor and solder in the LEDs with the aproriate resistor instead of the motor. put this in the third channel on the rx and with the orinal firmware the 3ch switch will toggle the LED on or off.

Edit: I just forget.. you need to set the original potentiometer somewhere in the middle to have that work.
Edit2: damn.. seems like In my thoughts I'm somewhere else.. I mean the potentiometer in the servo you will be "reworking" into the "LED switch".

JOE_COOL

iTrader: (6)

Gouge is military speak Important/Useful knowledge

I'll read over the Instructions. hopefully i won't have to solder too much or anything at all. I'm ok at it, but i'd hate to melt the board or burn out a capacitor.

I was hoping there would be a way to make the switch on the 3ch act as an on/off to the lights plugged into the 3ch slot on the reciever. I guessi can take an old servo and do that trick, but i'd rather do it via the controller and firmware. Right now, if my memory serves me correct, if i plug the lights into the 3ch, they will automatically stay on the entire time.

Thanks again - i'll be sure to return to theforums with future questions

Joe

NotchBack5.0

First, thanks for everyone who has contributed to this thread. I just happened across this thread researching the GT3b vs GT3. Looks like after reading this thread, I am convinced to buy a GT3B and buy the parts to upgrade the firmware.

I wanted to make a recommendation regarding this thread. Through the thread, i keep seeing references to page 100, or the post # associated with the correct post. The information located on page 100 is great, and does a good job with a walk through of each mod. The problem is the links that contain the how to, do not describe why the mod is needed, or why someone would chose to do a particular mod. I had to spend a couple hours reading through this thread to determine why the Voltage Regulator would need to be replaced, and if it should be replaced only with LiPo, or standard alkaline/NiCD/NiMH. Adding another 25-40% run time between charges seems like a good reason to do the mod, but I did not find that info until just recently. I also had to search and search this thread to find a list of common issues, or reasons why the firmware updates are needed, and also found a few different questions with a very common theme; "WHY DO THESE UPDATES?" In my opinion, there should be quick description of the known issues the remote has, and why each upgrade/mod is needed, or how it helps. There also could be a link added to the first page linking to page 100. If page 100 is going to remain the info page, can the information for why a mod is needed be added to that response? I think it would cut down on the amount of repeat questions asked, and help to clean up this thread.

TIZAO

iTrader: (11)

Drsmooth Both links are dead!

tc5 man

anybody ?

i would just use a nimh rechargeble battery back also .

skree

100% should be full throw but all servos are slightly different and could need the extra range. ranges over 100% are to be used with care though as they can burn out the servo.

open the casing of the radio, pull out and desolder the original battery tray, put a plug on the end of the wires that matches to your battery pack. et voila! you can now run your nimh pack.

be a lot easier to just put 8 aa's in it though, unless you already have the pack

losikid67

Its because he copy/pasted mattyhawk, both are the same link

http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5053464

losikid67

You could take this

http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5399079

and a 4 pin cord to go with it

http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5399081

put the header in the cord, then put the header down through the holes

Tilt it up so it gets a good pressure/contact to all the pins, and press program on stvp

i also offer pre flashed and modded gt3b's

http://www.overkillrc.com/products.h...roduct=5583397