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FLYSKY GT3b Transmitter

Old 06-29-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kamlooper
I got my stms board today. Now I would like to know if it is possible to make a dig setup for a losi comp crawler work with any of the switches on the gt3b handle. If it can work just like the spektrum dx3r, thats perfect!
I read the info on page 100 but it specifys a dig setup for MOA.

Any help appreciated. thanks
You'll have to ask Losikid. He is experimenting with all the crawler stuff.

Originally Posted by NLpurplelambo43
I got this transmitter and I love it, haven't had any problems with the expo what so ever which is nice. I would like to ask if a Novak Havoc ESC, a high speed Savox servo, and this transmitter would work well without any glitching? Never had very fast servos, this one is going to be lightning fast, it's 0.07s at 60* I believe. Somewhere in that range. Never had any glitching problems with a servo, so what causes it to happen with the Savox and the FS-GT3B?
You wouldn't experience any glitching, but you may lose power during use. So just get a Spektrum power capacitor or make your own. They stor that little bit of needed power to keep the receiver on.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:03 PM
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So the problem isn't caused by the GT-3B? Where would I plug the capacitor in the receiver? I know there are only 4, one of them is for binding, so could I use the binding one for the capacitor and the VCC channel (don't know what VCC stands for) for the Transponder?
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:53 PM
  #1848  
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Originally Posted by kamlooper
I got my stms board today. Now I would like to know if it is possible to make a dig setup for a losi comp crawler work with any of the switches on the gt3b handle. If it can work just like the spektrum dx3r, thats perfect!
I read the info on page 100 but it specifys a dig setup for MOA.

Any help appreciated. thanks
you can map the switches with the new fw,iv set mine using the dr switch and ch3 button for using a 3d punk dig, #1695 post may help Losikid is onto the crawler set ups.
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by NLpurplelambo43
So the problem isn't caused by the GT-3B? Where would I plug the capacitor in the receiver? I know there are only 4, one of them is for binding, so could I use the binding one for the capacitor and the VCC channel (don't know what VCC stands for) for the Transponder?
it can happen with any radio, even big brands like Spektrum.

Any channel will do. But then that 4th one isn't used so may as well plug it in there.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:13 AM
  #1850  
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Originally Posted by QuangVuong
it can happen with any radio, even big brands like Spektrum.

Any channel will do. But then that 4th one isn't used so may as well plug it in there.
Thanks, I appreciate it. Will be getting the Novak one......
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:21 PM
  #1851  
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Will this radio bind with spektrum receivers?
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Will this radio bind with spektrum receivers?
Nope and nope to the vice versa.
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:18 PM
  #1853  
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Originally Posted by kamlooper
I got my stms board today. Now I would like to know if it is possible to make a dig setup for a losi comp crawler work with any of the switches on the gt3b handle. If it can work just like the spektrum dx3r, thats perfect!
I read the info on page 100 but it specifys a dig setup for MOA.

Any help appreciated. thanks
Yes sir, you would simply map one of the buttons (I would choose ch3 trim or d/r) to ch 3. Then probably use the mom (momentary) setup, or if you don't want to hold the switch while digging then i would use NOL (No Long Keys) and set your step rate to 100

Then when ch is at 0 hook up your dig linkage to your servo, you may have to trim the ch (i believe you have to go into the sub trim menu, so long click on trim) now set both your (left and right) epa's to 0 and slowly adjust them out till the linkage stops moving and the servo starts buzzing, then back it off afew clicks (%'s) so the servo stops buzzing. If the servo buzzes heavily because its bound you'll burn it up.

And yes the dig function is for dual esc's, a mechanical dig simple uses 3 positions. If you need anymore help lmk
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:27 PM
  #1854  
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For those who have bought a programming kit from me (programmer, 4 pin cable, usb, 90* header,) here is the initial install instructions, i'm still working on them though

http://www.overkillrc.com/GT3B%20Hac...raft%201.0.pdf
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:49 PM
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Losikid,

I got your programming kit today. Everything went smoothly and I've already reprogrammed the radio. I really like the 90 degree 4-pin connector. I did the cut out on my radio and it really makes it easy to reflash. Kudos!

Elisabeth
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Attached Thumbnails FLYSKY GT3b Transmitter-fs-gt3b_fwport.jpg  
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:08 PM
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Thanks losikid. Now I just need some quiet time to do the mods.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Elisabeth
Losikid,

I got your programming kit today. Everything went smoothly and I've already reprogrammed the radio. I really like the 90 degree 4-pin connector. I did the cut out on my radio and it really makes it easy to reflash. Kudos!

Elisabeth
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Awesome, glad to know it all went smoothly. How do you like the 4 pin cable? I put quite abit of thinking into how to get a nice looking, but very functional and tight fitting cable.

Originally Posted by kamlooper
Thanks losikid. Now I just need some quiet time to do the mods.
No problem, just lmk if you need help



Also i have 2 programming kits ready to ship, 5 more will be ready here in afew days once i get caught up on other orders and inventory...you can buy the kits at www.overkillrc.com

This first batch sold real quick between this forum and rcc, so i have el backlight kits in the works. Here soon i'll have some samples on their way, make sure they will work. But an el backlight will get quite abit of weight out of the top of the radio, and provide a even backlight all the way through, and it will still turn on and off with your back light timer. But beings i'm going have to get custom els' and foam pads cut my min order is 200. So i'm going to set a steep goal of 150 programming kits to be sold before i invest into el backlight kits...the el kits will cost $25-30 if my prices are the same when i actually order. I'm also working on afew other projects like a 1s lipo mod. So just keeping ya'll in the loop
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:16 AM
  #1858  
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im having a problem with my gt3b since changing the firmware. (forgot to save factory fw and such )
once i got it to program the new 3ch firmware it worked, so i then decided to program the new 6ch firmware in and after it said it was done i turned the radio offf then back on and none of the buttons work but the dial and the screen only show MOD0 or the batt voltage . so then i went and reprogrammed the new 3ch fw and the same problem is happening but also the dualrate switch works . what can i do to fix this? what did i do wrong?
any help would be greatly appreciated.

edit: reflashed 6ch fw and all is good no, just need to figure out dual esc mixing for both crawler and tracked vehicle

Last edited by benoj; 07-01-2011 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:27 PM
  #1859  
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Losikid,

The 4 pin cable is pretty slick. One possible suggestion. You could use a polaride male 4 pin header on the radio circuit board and mate it to a 4 pin female plug on the cable. This would provide two benefits. First, it would ensure that the cable isn't plugged in reversed. Second, since it's keyed, it would help ensure the cable easilty mates the pin header (e.g. no bent pinnes).

I think the pins are about 2.54mm (.100") pitch center to center, right? If so, Digi-Key has some connectors that might work.
For the radio circuit board, I'm thinking DigiKey part A1927-ND (TE Connectivity part 640457-4).

For the cable, I'm thinking DigiKey part A31019-ND (TE Connectivity part 3-643814-4).

Thoughts?

Elisabeth
Attached Thumbnails FLYSKY GT3b Transmitter-4-pin-polarized-header.jpg   FLYSKY GT3b Transmitter-4-pin-polarized-plug.jpg  
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Old 07-01-2011, 05:50 PM
  #1860  
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Originally Posted by Elisabeth
Losikid,

The 4 pin cable is pretty slick. One possible suggestion. You could use a polaride male 4 pin header on the radio circuit board and mate it to a 4 pin female plug on the cable. This would provide two benefits. First, it would ensure that the cable isn't plugged in reversed. Second, since it's keyed, it would help ensure the cable easilty mates the pin header (e.g. no bent pinnes).

I think the pins are about 2.54mm (.100") pitch center to center, right? If so, Digi-Key has some connectors that might work.
For the radio circuit board, I'm thinking DigiKey part A1927-ND (TE Connectivity part 640457-4).

For the cable, I'm thinking DigiKey part A31019-ND (TE Connectivity part 3-643814-4).

Thoughts?

Elisabeth
Yes i considered polarized connectors, But that would create a harder install as both the top and bottom section will need to be cut, it'll create a bigger hole making it easier for the elements to get into the radio and make a more noticeable hole.

Also polarized headers and connectors cost quite abit more than just standard stuff. And the ones you linked to simply "clamps" the wires into the plug i think, and that plug has to go aways in there so it will be real hard to pull on the plug to unplug it, because pulling on the wires may pull them out of the plug. I have a real nice pair of servo pin crimpers which the receptacles i am using uses servo plug contacts, so i get real tight crimps. so pulling on the wires is ok todo.

Also there is alittle arrow on the plugs i'm using. That arrow goes to the button side on the radio and on the SB1 side on the programmer...its also the black wire...so it should take just alittle brain power to plug it in correctly.
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