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-   -   twitching hi-tec servo (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/377384-twitching-hi-tec-servo.html)

yuppi1 03-06-2010 09:17 PM

twitching hi-tec servo
 
hi guys

i have a hs 635-hb servo that is really twitchy when it goes to centre after i apply the brakes. it is fine when i am on and off throttle but just when i am on the brakes.

This serov is about 2 months old and has had only 2 races

cheers for all answers

2tap 03-06-2010 10:12 PM

Many of the new servos have such a high step count (Pulse Traveling) they are always trying to find center. Buzzing noise.
Not your problem.
You have a bind in your linkage somewhere.
Take stuff apart until you find it.
One thing at a time.
Every thing must be COMPLETELY free.
Really..........


Control System: +Pulse Width Control 1500usec Neutral
Required Pulse: 3-5 Volt Peak to Peak Square Wave
Operating Voltage: 4.8-6.0 Volts
Operating Temperature Range: -20 to +60 Degree C
Operating Speed (4.8V): 0.18sec/60° at no load
Operating Speed (6.0V): 0.15sec/60° at no load
Stall Torque (4.8V): 69 oz/in. (5.5kg.cm)
Stall Torque (6.0V): 83 oz/in. (6kg.cm)
Operating Angle: 45 Deg. one side pulse traveling 400usec
360 Modifiable: Yes
Direction: Clockwise/Pulse Traveling 1500 to 1900usec
Current Drain (4.8V): 5.3mA/idle and 400mA no load operating
Current Drain (6.0V): 6.6mA/idle and 500mA no load operating
Dead Band Width: 4usec
Motor Type: 3-Pole Ferrite
Potentiometer Drive: Indirect Drive
Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing
Gear Type: Karbonite Gears
Connector Wire Length: 11.81" (300mm)
Dimensions: 1.6" x 0.8"x 1.5" (40 x 20 x 39mm)
Weight: 1.83oz. (52.1g)

yuppi1 03-06-2010 11:09 PM


Originally Posted by 2tap (Post 7100901)
Many of the new servos have such a high step count (Pulse Traveling) they are always trying to find center. Buzzing noise.
Not your problem.
You have a bind in your linkage somewhere.
Take stuff apart until you find it.
One thing at a time.
Every thing must be COMPLETELY free.
Really..........


Control System: +Pulse Width Control 1500usec Neutral
Required Pulse: 3-5 Volt Peak to Peak Square Wave
Operating Voltage: 4.8-6.0 Volts
Operating Temperature Range: -20 to +60 Degree C
Operating Speed (4.8V): 0.18sec/60° at no load
Operating Speed (6.0V): 0.15sec/60° at no load
Stall Torque (4.8V): 69 oz/in. (5.5kg.cm)
Stall Torque (6.0V): 83 oz/in. (6kg.cm)
Operating Angle: 45 Deg. one side pulse traveling 400usec
360 Modifiable: Yes
Direction: Clockwise/Pulse Traveling 1500 to 1900usec
Current Drain (4.8V): 5.3mA/idle and 400mA no load operating
Current Drain (6.0V): 6.6mA/idle and 500mA no load operating
Dead Band Width: 4usec
Motor Type: 3-Pole Ferrite
Potentiometer Drive: Indirect Drive
Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing
Gear Type: Karbonite Gears
Connector Wire Length: 11.81" (300mm)
Dimensions: 1.6" x 0.8"x 1.5" (40 x 20 x 39mm)
Weight: 1.83oz. (52.1g)

when you say linkage what exactly do you mean? When you say pull things apart do you mean inside the servo?

cheers

merdith6 03-07-2010 12:12 AM

OK
 
Digital servos really want to be exaxtly centered. Like the above guy said they have more steps in the movement. Like frequency in a speed control the more steps the more resolution and precision throughout the travel. There may be a little binding in your steering or throttle, but that might not be your problem. I think it's just time to put some new gears in your servo, they develop slop and the distance between the teeth on the gears is more than the steps in resolution on the servo, so it hunts to center moving back and forth really fast. Especially when the wheels are off the ground, like on startup on the box or on the gate or while refueling. Really it's not going to hurt anything and won't affect your driving, but if you want it gone, and it is a little irritating I know, you just need to order a gear set for the servo. It's easy to replace the gears, just be gentle. And you could have some binding in the servo saver. The two top screws that hold the top plate to the two posts, or some tie rod ends are gritty or, and it happens alot, the pivot balls are too tight, like in a mugen. As for you the throttle servo is twitchy and it's a new servo. You may have too much strain on it at neutral. The brakes should be free at neutral, so try loosening the end stops on the brake rods f and rear. And lessen the end points on the brake side, and make sure at full throttle the carb isn't all the way slammed open, give it a little room forchassis flex and so on. about 1.5mm and when at neutal make sure the rod that opens the carb isn't tight against the stop on the end when you give it gas it needs a little gap there too. 1mm is fine. the part that the servo arm pulls to open the carb with the set screw. And finally check the brake cam that pushes the brake pads against the disks. Sometimes the bottom that fits into the diff holder is tight and can cause weird issues too. Just make sure everything is free moving and not crammed together. Check all the wires and make sure there aren't any damaged wires going to the reciever. And what radio are you using, my old fm radio did that, but if it's a 2.4 then that's not it. Try a different servo, if it goes away then send in the servo to be checked out.....Stuff happens....But I thing somethings jammed up like the above guy said.

yuppi1 03-07-2010 12:51 AM


Originally Posted by merdith6 (Post 7101183)
Digital servos really want to be exaxtly centered. Like the above guy said they have more steps in the movement. Like frequency in a speed control the more steps the more resolution and precision throughout the travel. There may be a little binding in your steering or throttle, but that might not be your problem. I think it's just time to put some new gears in your servo, they develop slop and the distance between the teeth on the gears is more than the steps in resolution on the servo, so it hunts to center moving back and forth really fast. Especially when the wheels are off the ground, like on startup on the box or on the gate or while refueling. Really it's not going to hurt anything and won't affect your driving, but if you want it gone, and it is a little irritating I know, you just need to order a gear set for the servo. It's easy to replace the gears, just be gentle. And you could have some binding in the servo saver. The two top screws that hold the top plate to the two posts, or some tie rod ends are gritty or, and it happens alot, the pivot balls are too tight, like in a mugen. As for you the throttle servo is twitchy and it's a new servo. You may have too much strain on it at neutral. The brakes should be free at neutral, so try loosening the end stops on the brake rods f and rear. And lessen the end points on the brake side, and make sure at full throttle the carb isn't all the way slammed open, give it a little room forchassis flex and so on. about 1.5mm and when at neutal make sure the rod that opens the carb isn't tight against the stop on the end when you give it gas it needs a little gap there too. 1mm is fine. the part that the servo arm pulls to open the carb with the set screw. And finally check the brake cam that pushes the brake pads against the disks. Sometimes the bottom that fits into the diff holder is tight and can cause weird issues too. Just make sure everything is free moving and not crammed together. Check all the wires and make sure there aren't any damaged wires going to the reciever. And what radio are you using, my old fm radio did that, but if it's a 2.4 then that's not it. Try a different servo, if it goes away then send in the servo to be checked out.....Stuff happens....But I thing somethings jammed up like the above guy said.

hi

thank you so much for your response.
i took the servo out of the car and connected with nothing attached and the servo is still doing the same thing. i opened the servo and nothing seems to be wrong with the gears. I have attached the video to sort of show you. i no it is crappy but all i am doing in the video is going from throttle to brake and as you can see it does twitch. thank you

does hi-tec have a warranty?

cheers


http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/..._Video0003.jpg

Tree 03-07-2010 12:39 PM

Hitec has one of the best warranties in the business. Contact them and they will take care of you. I burned a 5955TG servo (user error) a couple of years ago and the sent me a brand new 7955TG. Now that service.

By the way, how's that Alpha engine working for you in your Matrix? I'm thinking about getting one.

Duster_360 03-07-2010 12:39 PM

Yes, Hitec has a warranty - send it in and you'll prob get a new one in return. The few I've sent back were just replaced.

yuppi1 03-07-2010 10:16 PM


Originally Posted by Tree (Post 7102849)
Hitec has one of the best warranties in the business. Contact them and they will take care of you. I burned a 5955TG servo (user error) a couple of years ago and the sent me a brand new 7955TG. Now that service.

By the way, how's that Alpha engine working for you in your Matrix? I'm thinking about getting one.

hey mate it is a gun engine! i would highly reccomend it to you. And for the price. Also the australian distributor has awesome customer service. I run the z852 and has soooo much power. I say go for it!

cheers

Tree 03-08-2010 07:49 AM

I just wanted something that would push our rolling brick of a car without any problems. I'm thinking about going with another chassis manufacturer once my driving skills improve.:D I think I will place an order for a S852 for my truggy and a Z852 for my buggy. Thanks for the info.

By the way, what pipe are you using for your Z852?


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