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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

Old 12-26-2009, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by PaPeRo
Thanks, I will give it a try. I have a feeling I will like it better than the Novak SS.
No doubt about it



Originally Posted by marine6680
Lead free sucks, and silver solders are more poisonous than the leaded stuff. 63/37 is the best solder you can use.
Yea I wasn't gonna say the over priced rc solders suck but you pretty much took the words outta my mouth on that one.
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Old 12-26-2009, 07:08 PM
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Excellent thread Jar Head...I thought I was decent at soldering but learned some good things in reading this that I will apply right now as I solder up my new ESC and motor!!! Thanks for taking the time to write this up.....Devil Dog!!!

Semper Fi!!!!

1st Mar Div
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Old 12-26-2009, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sugelle
Excellent thread Jar Head...I thought I was decent at soldering but learned some good things in reading this that I will apply right now as I solder up my new ESC and motor!!! Thanks for taking the time to write this up.....Devil Dog!!!

Semper Fi!!!!

1st Mar Div
OORAH!
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:32 PM
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Hello again Marine!

Quick question... I can't seem to find my stash of "good" leaded solder...

So I think I'm gonna order some off Ebay...

I just wanted to verify that I'm getting the right stuff.

I realise it's a little thin, but I do work on electronics as well, so the small wire works better for that... I can twist it to double up the thickness in R/C applications.

I just need to verify that its the correct stuff..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidR
Hello again Marine!

Quick question... I can't seem to find my stash of "good" leaded solder...

So I think I'm gonna order some off Ebay...

I just wanted to verify that I'm getting the right stuff.
Unfortunately there is no right stuff on eBay. All have a D.O.M. (date of manifacture) older than 3 years or unknown.
This one has an (intentionally?) damaged D.O.M.
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:58 PM
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Yeah... I guess I forgot about that...

Even if I were to find my stash of old solder it's probably 20+ years old anyway. It's stuff my grandfather brought home from work YEARS ago when he worked for Bendix (then bought by Allied Signal, Now Honeywell) as an EE.

It's been working good for the years I've been in the hobby though... Which is probably 10 or so.

Anybody got a good source on solder anyway?
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Old 12-27-2009, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidR
Hello again Marine!

Quick question... I can't seem to find my stash of "good" leaded solder...

So I think I'm gonna order some off Ebay...

I just wanted to verify that I'm getting the right stuff.

I realise it's a little thin, but I do work on electronics as well, so the small wire works better for that... I can twist it to double up the thickness in R/C applications.

I just need to verify that its the correct stuff..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Originally Posted by Imbuter2000
Unfortunately there is no right stuff on eBay. All have a D.O.M. (date of manifacture) older than 3 years or unknown.
This one has an (intentionally?) damaged D.O.M.
Originally Posted by DavidR
Yeah... I guess I forgot about that...

Even if I were to find my stash of old solder it's probably 20+ years old anyway. It's stuff my grandfather brought home from work YEARS ago when he worked for Bendix (then bought by Allied Signal, Now Honeywell) as an EE.

It's been working good for the years I've been in the hobby though... Which is probably 10 or so.

Anybody got a good source on solder anyway?
That is the right kind and that is a good brand. The DOM is smudged a bit but I can see Jan of 08, but don't hold me to that. Amazon sells it for around $25 for a spool and an online electronics place will be around $30.

The older stuff will work fine, so long as it was stored well indoors, but the flux core will be dry and it may be corroded on the outside. Just use extra flux and it will work and flow pretty well.

Yeah that is on the thin side for batteries and ESCs, but if you can only have one roll, the thinner stuff is more versatile. You can always double or triple wind some to use on larger components like you said.
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:52 PM
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Traxxas confirmed that the solder tabs of the TRX connectors are brass coated. No word if the plug end is gold or not, no specs on the traxxas site that I seen but other places list it as gold.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by marine6680
Thats a lot of amps!
True also, it's very common I see ppl having wires disconnected from motor. Not forgetting ESC poofed.... including solder leads spill on the car bodyshell in between race.

Last edited by Toh WL; 12-29-2009 at 05:54 AM.
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:35 PM
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I am going to try to get a video made. I will try to get it done at work on break. I will need to do it in our Back shop area because there are no cameras allowed near the aircraft. The Back shop is a general use area, so its not as tidy and organized as I like but will do fine.
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:31 PM
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So the statements "Wide surface area, gold-plated terminals" and "Two sets of gold metal pins" on Towerhobbies can be false? bad thing to know

and I read that "Brass is only 28% as conductive as copper. Some bronzes are as low as 7% as conductive as copper", so why this choice??

Originally Posted by marine6680
I am going to try to get a video made. I will try to get it done at work on break. I will need to do it in our Back shop area because there are no cameras allowed near the aircraft. The Back shop is a general use area, so its not as tidy and organized as I like but will do fine.
Great, thanks!
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Imbuter2000
So the statements "Wide surface area, gold-plated terminals" and "Two sets of gold metal pins" on Towerhobbies can be false? bad thing to know

and I read that "Brass is only 28% as conductive as copper. Some bronzes are as low as 7% as conductive as copper", so why this choice??


Great, thanks!
Well it solders well, and its a thin layer so the resistance is not that big of a deal.

And I forgot my camera today, will try to get it made when I go in on Saturday.
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Old 12-31-2009, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by marine6680
Well it solders well, and its a thin layer so the resistance is not that big of a deal.
Do you suggest to use the added RMA rosin for gold or brass coated surfaced too?

Originally Posted by marine6680
And I forgot my camera today, will try to get it made when I go in on Saturday.
Thanks!
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Imbuter2000
Do you suggest to use the added RMA rosin for gold or brass coated surfaced too?
Flux is always a help, on nice new shiny parts and wire, a thin coat is enough. Those flux pens work well on new parts.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:45 AM
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I got the radio shack 64-053 for christmas but, I can't find any tips. Anyone know where to get them or will a different model have tips for this? In store by me do not carry them.
Looks like its a Madell AT201D, still haveing a hard time finding tips though.

Last edited by gas-man; 01-01-2010 at 11:58 AM.
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