I'll just agree to disagree with you and leave it at that. What you say is true about the wire, but I wasn't speaking to the flexibility. That said, if your removing solder from the wire, there is less of a chance that solder will wick further inside the insulation, at least not enough to make a measurable impact on flexibility. Again it depends on quality of tools and the skill level of those operating said tools.

Maybe so, maybe so. I've been doing this for over 20 years though, and I have yet to see anyone take this approach, even early in my career, even before that in my much earlier hobby years. Guess I just hang out with the wrong people lol. :) No lie though, not once, not ever.

I will admit to using a method like the drop method mentioned. Usually when not at a bench and not having wick with me.

Such a method does remove most of the solder very quickly though.

Solder wick works very well when the amount of solder is fairly small. Large amounts saturate the wick, and you have to move to a fresh section of the wick.

Wick also needs fresh liquid flux applied before use. The small amount of flux already in the wick is usually old and dry by the time you go to use it. Fresh solder makes wick work very very well.

Desolder guns... They work ok. They can remove larger amounts than wick, and more quickly.

But a heated desolder tool is best, and better still when equiped with a button controlled vacuum pump.

So long as you haven't globbed on a ton of solder, wick with fresh flux is a good method.

I have more respect for my electronic equipment than to drop it on the floor when a simple flick of the wrist will do the same job.

Or maybe I just don't have as much money available to replace stuff I've broken on the floor.

A simple flick does work usually. Dropping onto a surface isn't necessary most of the time.

Yes, I have this available to me and is a preferred method (to me anyways). I've flicked my share before, but usually just excess off the tip of the iron. Everybody has their own methods though. :)

This thread needs to be front and center again as soldering skills are not improving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8

Watch this video. Then watch it again.

Not a bad video. I would use the video to determine what a good joint looks like then read the first post of this thread so you know what equipment and temps to use.

The method shown in the video for solder cups works. It is plenty fine for most solder needs.

I don't use that method for aerospace though, not considered reliable enough for critical connections.

I just bought the 5mm chisel tip for my hako clone...
WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!

going from the 4mm chisel tip to the 5mm tip made such a massive difference doing motor and battery wires.... best mod ever

the ebay 63/37 is JUNK. i bought a roll and did two joints with it and saw it was junk.. looked like a dull dry joint... throw it out and buy some kester 63/37

when im removing esc wires i always cut them down to 1" from the esc... this lessens the heat sinking of the wire and improves speeds up the melting of the joint.

( youll need to pull the wire wiith needle nose pliers or youll have burnt fingers)

change your tip to a 5mm chisel tip. they are MUCH better to work with doing motor and batt wires...

also stop pushing down so hard on the wire. that is causing the wire to splay out. the wires should still be cylindrical. i suspect that your tip isnt big enough which is causing you to push down hard to try and get it to melt.