I use 600*F for soldering on boards. Any good iron that can control the temp of the tip should work.

Tip selection becomes more important, as the components are getting smaller.


Soldering on boards means you need to follow the temp and time rules more closely.

any updated deals on soldering irons at 50 dollars?

I haven't looked into soldering irons for a while.

Great thread Marine, and way to stick with it for 6 years!

One good resource you might add to the front page is the NASA soldering guide NASA-STD-8379.3. You can find it with a Google search. It was their official criteria for soldering and inspection for space harnesses. It covers everything.

The custom built audio-philes are really into high quality soldering, wires and supplies. I found some great solder made by Cardas, which they call "Quad-Eutectic." It is an alloy of 4 metals, including silver and nickel, which gives it incredible wetting on silver and nickel plated wires.

Not a bad idea.

I never knew.
 

Marine6680,
I've soldered since childhood, built many Heathkits, etc.
Have always enjoyed soldering, and have had acceptable results.
Struggling lately with larger work, combining multiple ESC leads and soldering battery connectors. Just can't get it quite right.
Was still using a cheap iron and 60/40, never using flux.
Tried silver solder, but my joints were no better and the tip eroded badly.
I NEVER KNEW how much I didn't know.
I'm snipping off a bunch of stuff, re-tooling and looking forward to having some really nicely soldered connections.
Thanks for your generosity, and ongoing efforts. The videos are great.
And thank's to all the guys for the great questions/answers, very happy to have stumbled upon this resource!

Soldering for the First Time
 

As I constantly look at new brushless RC's and try to choose one to buy , I was given (for free !) an old sort of beat up RC8e. It does not run currently but it's not what you think. I was given it so that it may be my test subject as I learn how to solder. I'm being told that learning to solder is a must if I have any intention of sticking with this hobby for any length of time. So I'm doing it.

Anyway , does anyone have any advice as to which soldering station I should be looking at and where to buy ? Also , any tips about soldering would be greatly appreciated as well. I'll be looking on YT and Google for "how to" vids today.

The first post in this thread has a wealth of information.

Agreed but the tinning of wire leads is a bit vague if at all addressed and explained and this is written for those with at least some experience with soldering in some capacity.

The best way to tin wires (NASA guru's take notice - LOL) is to have the wire held static (soldering stations or anything that can hold a wire steady is a must for serious soldering) and place the iron's tip onto the wire and feed solder directly into the wire so it absorbs it. Too often I see people place solder onto the tip and then introduce it onto the wire, and while it appears to be tinned, the solder is merely encasing the leads on the outside, leaving the center bare. A good way to get wire to absorb solder is to dip your solder into paste flux, thereby coating it PERFECTLY without any excess. Then place the tip on the exposed lead and FEED the solder INTO THE WIRE SPARINGLY. Once you see the wire get coated STOP and then flip the lead over to see if it's coated on the other side, if not, do the same on this side and you should have a perfectly tinned lead. From there you tin the contact points so there's just enough solder to seep into the wire, but allow it to cool so you can place a small dollop of flux onto it. Then place your lead onto the contact point and heat the joint so they melt together. Remove the iron and hold steady and you should have a perfectly shiny, factory-like solder joint. I usually rewire my ESC's and people ask me how I got it to look like it came from the factory. Thankfully I was taught by a master welder who used to race with us when I was in my teens and have never had an issue with anything I've soldered.

QUICK TIP: For those whom don't have experience It's a great idea to use insulated alligator clips to hold your wires as they can get quite hot in no time, causing you to adjust your grip on them resulting in poorer joints.

I've used these for ages:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/09...g?v=1446835581

Thanks for the replies.

I will look over the write up section on tinning and see if it can be worded better.

I've been meaning to do a video series on soldering for some time but with 3 kids Mountain Biking, Painting lids and work & freelance… it's tough.

Awesome guide!

Do any of you have experience with the Circuit Specialists or BlackJack Solderwerks soldering stations seen on Circuit Specialists' website?

My new Circuit Specialists 75wt soldering station was delivered at 7:30. I have some soldering to do I'm three cars tomorrow so I will let you kn my new soldering station was delivered at 7:30. I have some soldering to do I'm three cars tomorrow so I will post up a review.

FYI, the irons they sell are the very ones RC Brands sell for a hell of a lot more. My recent experience with my buddy's 60wt Hakko wasn't at all impressive so I went with the 75wt model.

Here it is...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psukorlz4f.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psmmanjhtg.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psybz06sny.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psdx4kujjr.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psxgols1ur.jpg

Look familiar to anyone?

Can you say, with proof, that Circuit Specialists is the OEM for TrakPower or other RC brand stations?

Will the Hakko irons work with your new station?