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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

Old 05-05-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by NitroOB4You
Basically, the solder ( Kester 63/37 ) just balls up, sputters a bit if I move too much flow too quickly, and simply falls off the tips. Just yesterday, I even purchased a genuine Hakko bagged tip from my LHS...same thing.
Sounds like it needs a good old fashioned cleaning and tinning. Even a brand new tip needs to be properly tinned. I have 20 year old tips that are in perfect condition. Wipe clean the iron every time it touches a wire or post. Solder the joint, wipe clean on a damp sponge, maybe a quick touch of flux (paste in a 30 year old can) and another good cleaning... and so on. Clean clean clean.
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by marine6680
Yeah, just try gently twisting the wire strands back to its original position. Just don't twist too tightly, just enough, you want solder to flow between the strands easily.

Not as quite good as wire that was never deformed or birdcaged, but still good.
I should have clarified more. The wire that is slightly birdcages has solder in it. I don't think it will twist back together. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help marine6680.
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:27 PM
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Wow this thread is amazing, I have learned way more about lipos just here than I did googilein and ready what lipo companies have tocsay lmaooo thanks
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by padjr1
I should have clarified more. The wire that is slightly birdcages has solder in it. I don't think it will twist back together. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help marine6680.
Unfortunately no, you might be able to heat it up with the iron and use the tip and the table to help even it out, but other than that, starting fresh is best.

Birdcaged isn't the end of the world, and sometimes adjusting the shape of the wire may be necessary to help it fit to the post, which will cause some birdcaging, but usually you do the shaping as best you can before tinning. Sometimes if a flatter shape is needed, tinning then flattening it out will work.

Originally Posted by theblitzkidd
Wow this thread is amazing, I have learned way more about lipos just here than I did googilein and ready what lipo companies have tocsay lmaooo thanks
Glad its helping you.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RaigorStonehoof
thanks for your post,my rc heli need soldered so i think i can do it well.
I have this thread over on helifreak too, so head over there. Its a good site for info on helis.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:28 PM
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up, this thread needs to stay on the top
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Pulse_
up, this thread needs to stay on the top
It's stuck to the top, how far up do you think you were gonna bump it
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
It's stuck to the top, how far up do you think you were gonna bump it
Its the first one on the list as far as I see.

I'm just glad its helping people though.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:24 AM
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Default neg battery lead popping off

Ok I have a problem, hoping for some advice. I have a Tekno 4x4, tekin rx-8 and 4300hd motor, 7200 70c battery running bullet connectors right from esc. I am having issues with black/neg lead unsoldering itself from the bullet lead from esc, right at the bullet. I have turned current limit down to 50%, thought that helped, but after 3 pushed qualies, 2min into main pop, and it was barely 70degrees here in Michigan yesterday.

Sorry for length, and advice is appreciated.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by yamasledhead
Ok I have a problem, hoping for some advice. I have a Tekno 4x4, tekin rx-8 and 4300hd motor, 7200 70c battery running bullet connectors right from esc. I am having issues with black/neg lead unsoldering itself from the bullet lead from esc, right at the bullet. I have turned current limit down to 50%, thought that helped, but after 3 pushed qualies, 2min into main pop, and it was barely 70degrees here in Michigan yesterday.

Sorry for length, and advice is appreciated.
What style connectors are you using? Use solid bullet style connectors like these, Fantom, TQ Wire, Duratrax, etc.



Not spinning cage banana style like this, they heat up too much especially after some use.

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Old 07-29-2013, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by yamasledhead
Ok I have a problem, hoping for some advice. I have a Tekno 4x4, tekin rx-8 and 4300hd motor, 7200 70c battery running bullet connectors right from esc. I am having issues with black/neg lead unsoldering itself from the bullet lead from esc, right at the bullet. I have turned current limit down to 50%, thought that helped, but after 3 pushed qualies, 2min into main pop, and it was barely 70degrees here in Michigan yesterday.

Sorry for length, and advice is appreciated.
Do you have a nice clean solder joint?

If you are sure of a good solder connection, then something is causing abnormal heating issues.

Check your bullet connections, then check the ESC itself, and maybe the battery.

Post a picture of your solder connection after you get the wire back on, and I will take a look at it. Its harder to verify a good connection just by a pic, but I can rule out some problems.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:50 AM
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This has got to be the longest winded main topic in this entire forum ! That being said, there is an enormous amount of time and effort that went into creating this masterpiece of a "how to" for all those who needed the tips and wealth of information available here in! So, thanks for everything marine6680!
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Errokk
This has got to be the longest winded main topic in this entire forum ! That being said, there is an enormous amount of time and effort that went into creating this masterpiece of a "how to" for all those who needed the tips and wealth of information available here in! So, thanks for everything marine6680!
Ha! I can get a bit long winded at times.

That's only the basics... there is a lot more I could talk about, but it is not useful for RC needs. Unless your ESC gets a bullet hole in it somehow.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:42 PM
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I think a flux bottle will be better for me since they are more versatile compared to a pen as you explained via PM. In light of this, what needle size(s) do you recommend for R/C work?
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kenexcelon
I think a flux bottle will be better for me since they are more versatile compared to a pen as you explained via PM. In light of this, what needle size(s) do you recommend for R/C work?
Size? Well a small tip is fine, you don't need to drown the part. I am not sure what the sizes are exactly off the top of my head.

Basically, you do not want the smallest size, as small amounts of flux can dry out over a few days and any still in the tip may dry and clog it. (fixable with a little heat or a good soaking in alcohol) You also don't need the big sizes... Go with a size or two bigger than the smallest. About as big as a straight pin. (in fact, you can use a straight pin to seal the tip when not in use if you get the right size)
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