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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

Old 11-18-2012, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by marine6680
Get the biggest tip that you can fit into the iron, and try that. You will probably need to order it online.

Use a little solder on the iron tip to help conduct heat into the connector.

Pre-tin the wire and immediately try to solder it in the connector while it is still hot, instead of letting it cool for a few seconds. This will decrease the amount of heat needed to be put into the components to heat them up enough.

Usually a bigger tip is the answer, when not possible, add 50* to your iron temp. Always try a bigger tip first, unless the task somehow prohibits one.

Remember the TK950 is a rebranded Hakko, so get hakko tips.
Thanks. I can't find the 4mm so it'll probably be the 5mm. The guys at the LHS said that with the wire I'm using, I need to go between 750-850*.

The cooling in the connector isn't intentional. Getting the wire while the iron is still touching the connector is the tricky part
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by shagino
Thanks. I can't find the 4mm so it'll probably be the 5mm. The guys at the LHS said that with the wire I'm using, I need to go between 750-850*.

The cooling in the connector isn't intentional. Getting the wire while the iron is still touching the connector is the tricky part
More heat... the battle cry of those who can't solder.


Get a little clamp to help hold the parts, and do not fill the cup of the connector with solder first, tin the wire, and put it in the empty solder cup of the connector, then apply heat and solder.

Once you learn the technique and practice a little, its much easier than pre-filling the connector.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:24 AM
  #333  
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Originally Posted by marine6680
More heat... the battle cry of those who can't solder.


Get a little clamp to help hold the parts, and do not fill the cup of the connector with solder first, tin the wire, and put it in the empty solder cup of the connector, then apply heat and solder.

Once you learn the technique and practice a little, its much easier than pre-filling the connector.
Great. Was confirming that you didn't agree. Thanks for the tips!
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:44 PM
  #334  
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Like I said, it requires a little practice and learning, but it works better when you get it figured out, though you may not think so your first couple times.

Pre-filling the solder cup is easier to teach/learn/show, but it makes a far inferior solder joint.
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:44 AM
  #335  
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Very good info, don't realy have problems soldering but I do have an isue with solderings comming loose, this is only due to a new motor I have installed, I guess it just draws too much, it was also giving isues for the ESC that I used (castle max pro) it would reset itself after 2 minutes of driving! Now I use a Tekin RS pro and it can handle it but the connections just get too hot and the solder melts, result loose connection after 8 minutes of driving! I have to check what solder I have but would the 63/37 solder hold. I run a slash ultimate with Tekin RS pro esc and 2.5 turn Fantom fusion2 motor, on 2S it is as fast as my 6.5 turn team epic short course monster

Greetz mando
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Mandooke
Very good info, don't realy have problems soldering but I do have an isue with solderings comming loose, this is only due to a new motor I have installed, I guess it just draws too much, it was also giving isues for the ESC that I used (castle max pro) it would reset itself after 2 minutes of driving! Now I use a Tekin RS pro and it can handle it but the connections just get too hot and the solder melts, result loose connection after 8 minutes of driving! I have to check what solder I have but would the 63/37 solder hold. I run a slash ultimate with Tekin RS pro esc and 2.5 turn Fantom fusion2 motor, on 2S it is as fast as my 6.5 turn team epic short course monster

Greetz mando
Mate to be honest if you are melting solder joints while using the rs pro I really think you should go back and learn to gear your motor right. As for running a 2.5 on a rs pro just be aware of timing and making sure you have a really good battery to be driving that sort of motor... Cause I can tell you now if its getting that hot to melt the solder on the outside what happens to the solder on the inside on the pcb's??

I really hope your running a battery that has good capacity and great amount of amp draw available as this can be a big problem as the battery is what makes your power not a big motor.... also if you get the chance to shorten your power wires do so and maybe have to sit down and work out a better capacitor bank to due to the lack of power creating the heat not as tho you have to much..... Hope the helps mate

Cheers
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jjfo80
I really hope your running a battery that has good capacity and great amount of amp draw available as this can be a big problem as the battery is what makes your power not a big motor.... also if you get the chance to shorten your power wires do so and maybe have to sit down and work out a better capacitor bank to due to the lack of power creating the heat not as tho you have to much..... Hope the helps mate

Cheers
Fordy
bateries are no problem, I have 6 thunderpower 6000mAh 65C 2S bateries the thing is that the solders on the esc itself (bottom end of the posts) are not melting so I think I need other solder, the gearing should be ok, 16/50 if I change that I will do wheelies all the time! was also thinking of installing a fan to keep the solder cool!

greetz mando
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:08 AM
  #338  
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Originally Posted by Mandooke
bateries are no problem, I have 6 thunderpower 6000mAh 65C 2S bateries the thing is that the solders on the esc itself (bottom end of the posts) are not melting so I think I need other solder, the gearing should be ok, 16/50 if I change that I will do wheelies all the time! was also thinking of installing a fan to keep the solder cool!

greetz mando
Ok next thing will be to go lead free solder as its hard to apply but has a way higher melting point. With the tekin you can run a fan on the solder posts so that way it will cool them as tekin have said thats where they cool their speed control as that is the biggest amount of surface area that the most amount of heat is.

With no heatsink thats what tekin uses as their heatsink.

I hope that helps mate.
PS if your motor is cold or running at a good temp then maybe you need to gear UP not down as the motor to topping out and running at top rpm for to long and the power is going thru the esc with no load. If the motor is hot gear down if the esc it hot gear UP. So a bigger pinion til you bring your esc temp down and your motor temp up.
You want your motor to be at the right temp so then the whole system can be running all perfect.

Cheers
Fordy
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:03 AM
  #339  
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Thanks for the tips, esc was getting kinda hot but not overheated I will moniter the temperatures

Greetz mando
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:46 PM
  #340  
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Also check to ensure your wire is of adequate size. Maybe try a size or two larger.

Also a poor solder joint from not allowing the solder to melt fully can cause resistance at the joint, and that can cause high resistance. If that happens, then you get more heat from high current through the connection.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:56 AM
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The TrakPower TK950 = Hakko 936 right? I bought a 5.2 tip form amain and the tip falls straight out. The list of irons supported says 936. Is there an adaptor that I need or did I get the wrong tip?

This is the one I got:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ide-Chisel-Tip
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by shagino
The TrakPower TK950 = Hakko 936 right? I bought a 5.2 tip form amain and the tip falls straight out. The list of irons supported says 936. Is there an adaptor that I need or did I get the wrong tip?

This is the one I got:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ide-Chisel-Tip
Unless its obviously smaller than the hole, then it should be it. The set screw should hold it.

Hakko offers two different irons for the 936, the normal one, and a larger one.

The TK950 comes with the larger one.

Last edited by marine6680; 01-13-2013 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:01 AM
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First and foremost, thank you for this thread, HUGE HELP!

Read a large volume of the posts and have watched the video, but I have a few questions. I am Installing my RX8 & 4600 kv motor in my SCTE and had a couple of quick questions.

1) ESC is rated at 210 Amps continuous current is 8 ga or 10 ga wire a better choice than 12 ga?

2) If 8 ga/10 ga wire is a better option, will 8 or 10 fit on the ESC posts?

3) I have a 2.4mm chisel tip, should I be using a 3.2mm chisel tip for this application due to the large posts instead?

4) Do I need to use flux on the brand new ESC/motor posts before I solder?

Sorry for the Noob soldering questions, but I'd like this to look as nice and work well. Also in case people don't know, the sensor cable doesn't come with the ESC.
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:07 AM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by jayhawknavy02
1) ESC is rated at 210 Amps continuous current is 8 ga or 10 ga wire a better choice than 12 ga?

2) If 8 ga/10 ga wire is a better option, will 8 or 10 fit on the ESC posts?

3) I have a 2.4mm chisel tip, should I be using a 3.2mm chisel tip for this application due to the large posts instead?

4) Do I need to use flux on the brand new ESC/motor posts before I solder?
1) Use the largest wire that fits. Bigger is better when high amps are concerned.

2) I do not have that ESC, so I can not answer that. Sometimes if a wire gauge is too large, you can adjust the shape, maybe flatten the wire before tinning, then it will fit better.

3) When it comes to large wire and larger ESC posts, the bigger the tip the better. I would say try and find the largest tip they make for your iron.

4) Flux is always a help, especially for tinning fresh wire, posts, and connectors. New components have a thin layer of oxides that prevent solder from bonding properly. Old solder connections have a thin (or thick) layer of oxides. Flux removes that layer. That is the why flux exists, to remove impurities and allow better molecular adhesion of the solder to the base metal.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:46 AM
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Thanks! Appreciate that shipmate!
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