radio trigger mod
 

have you ever wondered why your trigger travel doesnt follow the linear throw of your finger?when you are at full brake,you barely have the tip of your fingernail left on the trigger?and in a panic it slips off and your car nails the wall?
thats the case for me.some how my buddy manages to get the trigger in a full nelson,so this mod might not be for everybody,or every radio.i tend to throttle with the tip of my finger,and by the time i brake,all thats left is the tip on the trigger,which slips off once in a whille.

this mod i know works on the spektrum dx 2 and dx3 radios.it no doubt would void your warranty,but i am way beyond that so i went ahead to see what i could change.
what i managed to do was space out where the trigger assembly mounts on one side,and i ground a little off the other side.this will skew the throw of the trigger so that your finger is a little deeper in it at brake.some of the case needed to be ground for clearance,and i would suggest the spacing of the one side as oppossed to grinding the inside mount.
pictures are coming,so if you have any reservations,you can see whats inside,or just wish you would have done it.it is actually a pretty simple process,but can void your warranty,etc.the biggest risk is possibly damaging the antannae connector,as it is pretty fragile.

things to look out for while doing this are:
losing screws
losing the clear bind button
getting grindings in your radio
grinding teenie tiny wires by accident
BREAKING THE ANTANNAE CONNECTOR
pinching wires during reassembly
leftover parts cuz you worked on a messy bench
and maybe some others

first step is to seperate the cases,then you see this:1st picture



then remove the four screws that hold the circuit that has the antannae attached to it.be careful with the antannae wire,as its connector is pretty fragile.:2nd picture


bear with me as i have only figured out how to do attachments.

oops dont forget to put the clear bind button where you wont lose it,but will remember to put it back.

the last picture shows a screwdriver on one of the two screws that hold the trigger assembly to the radio.that screw is the one you want to space out.i used fuel tubing and a longer screw.the fuel tubing allows you to easily adjust the thickness by torqueing it down a little more or less.i ground down the boss on the other side a little bit,but it is a little risky cuz you can easily grind or cut through the thin wires around it.i also dont think that it really helps the final "feel" of the trigger,but it is up to you.
the first picture on this page shows where to grind.
the second is the screw i used ,lenght of fuel tubing,and stock screw.
the third is it reassembled.

one of the last steps is to grind the casing for clearance.

one thing that i didnt do but thought of later was to carefully line up and drill a small hole in the case to allow access to the screw on the spacer side,to adjust it if necessary.

when you reassemble it,dont forget the bind button as i have.be careful of pinching wires.


as long as you dont grind the inner boss,you should be able to go back to normal really easy if you dont like it ,except for grinding the case for the trigger clearance,which,imo,aint a big deal.

i would say good luck,but if you think you need it,then i might not suggest doing this.

hope this helps.lmk.


**********dont jack up your radio if you dont feel comfortable doing this**************

pics