Brake power?
 

So I am racing on a budget. I have a 10bl60 HW ESC - which I am running USGT 21.5t - so I cant draw more than the ESC will put out.. great - power is fantastic.

I am also the type of driver that needs some drag brake - I cant drive all into a corner and blip the brakes and go.. not to mention with this esc and a USGT motor even SLAMing on the brakes does not really slow the car that fast at all.

Im older, and back in the FET esc days you used to have so many FWD FETS and usually 1 or 2 .. or crazy.. up to 4 FETS for brake/REV. These new escs - how is the braking power decided???

THe car is a Mugen MTC2 - after everything 1357g on track, but getting brake out of it is difficult. I have seen some say the radio can have something to do with it? I have an fs-IT3C radio and an old MARS with Spektrum module in it. The mars has some more adjustments, but Im looking for max braking power not tweaking.

I have read the wind of the motor, but I used to run 21.5 back in 2016 with an ORCA esc of the day on a T4 chassis and it had brakes.. So I think it really still comes down to how much power the esc can flow in the reverse direction???? So only way to really fix this is a better esc?

The dumbed down version is that the ESC just shorts the poles on the motor and the back EMF from the motor rotating creates the braking force. The motor itself plays a big difference in brake strength. The radio should be irrelevant.

Do your rules require a ROAR approved ESC? The 10BL60 is not on the approval list.

Have you turned up max brake force on the ESC? Looks like default is 75%.

Beyond that, not a lot you can do with that ESC.

+1



I would invest in a high quality motor with the most powerful rotor you can find to get the strongest possible brake strength.


Most clubs I have raced only check for "blinky" mode, so long as the ESC is in blinky mode (Zero timing/boost) then it's probably going to be allowed. If the club only runs spec with outlaw motors allowed then I would recommend the Fantom Helix Outlaw:
https://fantomracing.com/shop/motors...25573730468750


If ROAR approved electronics are strictly enforced then I would talk to the local fast guys and see what they are running.


Side note, I haven't ran on-road in 5+ years and back then I used to use drag brake as well, but I have since learned that drag brake is a crutch giving you the illusion that you're running faster. It took me about 2 months after I disabled drag brake to "re-learn" how to carry speed through corners when I became a significantly faster driver without drag brake. I went back to prove that I was faster with drag brake but I was wrong, it made me slower and I never went back to drag brake since. What becomes more important is learning how to adjust brake strength depending on the amount of grip. That's where the radio adjustment comes in handy to set brake strength during warmup if track conditions change.

They mentioned they're using the USGT 21.5 motor. Good chance if they're using that, that it's the only one allowed.

I used to race USGT 21.5T myself and the club I raced at only cared about blinky, any outlaw motor was allowed, just needed to state 21.5T on the can and ESC had to be in blinky mode.

This was my paint scheme back when I could get (now out of business) Pactra Fiery Orange, I now run Fluorescent Orange on my current cars:

https://live.staticflickr.com/731/22...52e84915_c.jpg

Yep
 

Thanks for the replies.
the motive usgt spec motor and the spec wheels & tires are enforced. The blinky mode for the esc is all that's required there.
Wondering if the midmotor mount also contributes to poor brakes. I'll try a different motor.

The issue is that even with no drag brake the actual braking is so poor ... a hard brake does not stop the car well either.. so I can't run into a corner entry and blip and drive.

I'll see if I can try someone elses usgt car as well.

Thanks