Adjusting endpoints to match subtrim
 

Had to adjust the subtrim on my steering servo slightly to get straight. How do I properly set my end points after to keep my steering proper?

Depends on the radio, look for the EPA setting.

I always took a solid side ran my car half a circle with steering wheel all the way in that direction then did other way , I adjusted endpoints in my radio to match.subtrim takes away from whatever direction you use it in.

Correct order is:

1. Trim at zero and dual rate at 100% (ideally a fresh model memory)
2. Sub trim to get the linkage geometry correct (right angles are your friend)
3. EPA to get full lock, no more, no less, in each direction
4. Trim to get the car running straight on the track (won't need many clicks after correct sub-trim setup)
5. Dual rate to reduce steering if necessary for handling balance

I really like this approach but I will go a step farther with an initial car setup where I prefer to never touch trim and keep sub-trim to zero.

I use a setup station to set the ride height, camber and front toe first...then I adjust the link between the servo arm and the bell cranks to get the car to track straight. It can be time consuming but it's worth the hassle to know my car is perfectly centered. Not all radios will balance steering properly even with sub-trim where a few points is no big deal, but I've seen some guys have close to 50 points on their sub-trim where I test drove their car and could clearly feel unbalanced throw from left to right making the car harder to drive than necessary. Once we centered everything out the car drove like a dream.

I mis the step of mount the servosaver or servo arm as close to center as possible

I do this too but I don't do it on a setup station. In fact I do it before the steering links are connected while building the car. I make sure the steering rack itself is centred, the setup station won't necessarily do that even if the wheels are pointing straight. I've seen a lot of cars at the track where the steering rack is out by 10 degrees or so because they keep adjusting the steering links to get the wheels straight instead of the servo link.

I agree that your method works fine, but sometimes, getting the servo perfectly centred can be between 2 teeth of the servo output shaft, therefore you need to use the sub trim to get it in the correct position. It is especially true with pan cars.

Martin Paradis

That's why you adjust the length of the link between the servo horn and the steering rack, like they mentioned. But yes, this won't apply to pan cars.

on most pan cars, there is no steering rack… The servo saver is directly connected to the tie rods. You want the servo saver center to be exactly perpendicular to the chassis and the tie rod to be exactly the same length. Otherwise you will end up with asymmetric steering.

Martin Paradis

Read the last sentence again of my post that you quoted.