Soldering Iron Recommendations
#3
Last year I wanted a new soldering iron for my newly built dedicated workbench but didn't want to spend too much. I got this one here: . It was even cheaper then and I was hesitant about getting one that I didn't know about but it works great and heats up to working temperature in about 5-6 seconds. The only thing I don't like is there is no completely off switch on this model. I just use a power strip to kill the power to it completely.
#4
Although the search is broken, Google can still find many topics on this forum.
Soldering iron - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net)
Soldering station recommendation. - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net) (with more links)
Soldering iron - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net)
Soldering station recommendation. - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net) (with more links)
#5
Although the search is broken, Google can still find many topics on this forum.
Soldering iron - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net)
Soldering station recommendation. - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net) (with more links)
Soldering iron - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net)
Soldering station recommendation. - R/C Tech Forums (rctech.net) (with more links)
#7
#8
not sure a noob should be removing the esc wires as they more than likely have limited soldering skills and will destroy esc in there replacing ,I've added length to my esc wires in past by starting with fresh cut end of esc wire then weaving piece into old wire soldering it together then adding heat shrink tube.good luck .lol had to laugh. i see this going badly even b4 you start i see op melting solder joints in multi layered boards in esc plugging battery in seeing a smoke show followed by fire then battery melting down...my go to iron is a 80watt led weller, also run a HealthKit 150 it has 3 temp levels
#9
search has never worked for me even dont think it will ever,
#11
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
not sure a noob should be removing the esc wires as they more than likely have limited soldering skills and will destroy esc in there replacing ,I've added length to my esc wires in past by starting with fresh cut end of esc wire then weaving piece into old wire soldering it together then adding heat shrink tube.good luck .lol had to laugh. i see this going badly even b4 you start i see op melting solder joints in multi layered boards in esc plugging battery in seeing a smoke show followed by fire then battery melting down...my go to iron is a 80watt led weller, also run a HealthKit 150 it has 3 temp levels
? - the "noob" has been on the forum since 2002 - you?
#12
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
Choose an iron with high heat (850°F +) and a heavy tip. The HW's use lead free solder and getting the old wires out cleanly is tough. Hit it with high heat, and when you remove the wire let the whole ESC cool off before attempting the next wire. Use a clean tip that has a nice covering of "wet" solder to transfer the most heat. If your tip is old and gnarly throw it out. You will never get enough heat into the lead-free to break the bond on a heavy wire (12-14 guage). Then get some wire braid and clean out all of the old lead-free garbage before re-tinning with decent leaded solder. Once converted you can swap in new wires much easier. I've done two XR10 Pros and a Pro-stock and they were all a PITA to do.
#13
not sure a noob should be removing the esc wires as they more than likely have limited soldering skills and will destroy esc in there replacing ,I've added length to my esc wires in past by starting with fresh cut end of esc wire then weaving piece into old wire soldering it together then adding heat shrink tube.good luck .lol had to laugh. i see this going badly even b4 you start i see op melting solder joints in multi layered boards in esc plugging battery in seeing a smoke show followed by fire then battery melting down...my go to iron is a 80watt led weller, also run a HealthKit 150 it has 3 temp levels
#14
Choose an iron with high heat (850°F +) and a heavy tip. The HW's use lead free solder and getting the old wires out cleanly is tough. Hit it with high heat, and when you remove the wire let the whole ESC cool off before attempting the next wire. Use a clean tip that has a nice covering of "wet" solder to transfer the most heat. If your tip is old and gnarly throw it out. You will never get enough heat into the lead-free to break the bond on a heavy wire (12-14 guage). Then get some wire braid and clean out all of the old lead-free garbage before re-tinning with decent leaded solder. Once converted you can swap in new wires much easier. I've done two XR10 Pros and a Pro-stock and they were all a PITA to do.