20LikesSoldering iron
08-24-2019, 12:10 PM
#1
Soldering iron
I am sure this has been brought up, I did a search and didnt find what I was looking for so I am just going to ask.
I dont do a lot of soldering, but I need to solder some Dean's connectors and my harbor freight solder gun takes too long to heat the metal and ends up melting the plastic. Is there a nice yet economical solder iron you could recommend? Or maybe some good advice on soldering connectors?
Thank you in advance.
I dont do a lot of soldering, but I need to solder some Dean's connectors and my harbor freight solder gun takes too long to heat the metal and ends up melting the plastic. Is there a nice yet economical solder iron you could recommend? Or maybe some good advice on soldering connectors?
Thank you in advance.
08-24-2019, 12:41 PM
#2
I am sure this has been brought up, I did a search and didnt find what I was looking for so I am just going to ask.
I dont do a lot of soldering, but I need to solder some Dean's connectors and my harbor freight solder gun takes too long to heat the metal and ends up melting the plastic. Is there a nice yet economical solder iron you could recommend? Or maybe some good advice on soldering connectors?
Thank you in advance.
I dont do a lot of soldering, but I need to solder some Dean's connectors and my harbor freight solder gun takes too long to heat the metal and ends up melting the plastic. Is there a nice yet economical solder iron you could recommend? Or maybe some good advice on soldering connectors?
Thank you in advance.
08-24-2019, 06:14 PM
#4
I use a Hakko FX888D soldering station for the past 4 years and it have been great. It do not matter which connectors that you are using as a rule of thumb always tin your wire and the connection end of the connectors but make sure that you have the connectors male and female ends connected because this will act as a heatsink so the plastic do melt.
08-24-2019, 08:04 PM
#5
I am sure this has been brought up, I did a search and didnt find what I was looking for so I am just going to ask.
I dont do a lot of soldering, but I need to solder some Dean's connectors and my harbor freight solder gun takes too long to heat the metal and ends up melting the plastic. Is there a nice yet economical solder iron you could recommend? Or maybe some good advice on soldering connectors?
Thank you in advance.
I dont do a lot of soldering, but I need to solder some Dean's connectors and my harbor freight solder gun takes too long to heat the metal and ends up melting the plastic. Is there a nice yet economical solder iron you could recommend? Or maybe some good advice on soldering connectors?
Thank you in advance.
Also, your Hazard Fraught iron is probably powerful enough, but the soldering iron should be HOT before trying to solder. Also, if all you have is a pointy tip, cut or grind that thing into a proper chisel tip like this:
Basic steps:
1: Heat iron. Clean the tip with sponge or cleaning wool.
2: Tin the wire ends, and tip of the iron.
3: Use the soldering iron to HEAT THE WORK NOT THE SOLDER. The solder will wick into the wire just fine.
4: Hold the parts together until the solder has cooled and solidified. Give it a firm test pull, and you should be good to go.
08-24-2019, 08:55 PM
#6
Tech Initiate
As others have said, make sure the iron is hot before you start work. Even before the whole terminal is up to temperature to take solder, the area right next to the iron should be hot enough that you can feed a little solder between the iron and terminal to improve thermal conductivity and speed up the process. Position the iron tip so you have maximum contact with the terminal - don't just stab it with the tip, lay the tip over so the entire side of the tip is against the terminal. Also look into the fitment of the tip in your iron - if it has poor contact with the heating element it will cool down as soon as you touch it to a big cold metal terminal. If that is the case you can try shimming the gap between the tip and the heating element with aluminium foil. If that still doesn't work, maybe it's time to get a better or more powerful iron.
08-24-2019, 09:12 PM
#7
22 Shipped to your door from a US supplier. (So you dont have to wait two weeks from Asia)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YiHua-936-R...72.m2749.l2649
I just ordered one a month ago and it showed up in about 5 days. I have owned them all. Weller, Unger, Hakko, FakeO and you name it. For $20 bucks it will do the same basic stuff as all of the others. Its a decent clone and the tips even worked from a couple of my old dead irons in the RC junk yard. The Tip comes with a thin fine tip BUT you can put a Hakko Spade Iron Tip on it. So im all set for another year or so. I always leave them on and kill them....lol. Got to learn to turn it off as it heats up so fast.
I build a Sub C (Loose cells) pack a few days ago with battery bars and it worked great with plenty of heat. (One of the harder things to do with an iron in RC)
Kevin
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YiHua-936-R...72.m2749.l2649
I just ordered one a month ago and it showed up in about 5 days. I have owned them all. Weller, Unger, Hakko, FakeO and you name it. For $20 bucks it will do the same basic stuff as all of the others. Its a decent clone and the tips even worked from a couple of my old dead irons in the RC junk yard. The Tip comes with a thin fine tip BUT you can put a Hakko Spade Iron Tip on it. So im all set for another year or so. I always leave them on and kill them....lol. Got to learn to turn it off as it heats up so fast.
I build a Sub C (Loose cells) pack a few days ago with battery bars and it worked great with plenty of heat. (One of the harder things to do with an iron in RC)
Kevin
08-25-2019, 05:07 AM
#8
thank you everyone for all of the suggestions and advice! i try to look everything up and research things myself but sometimes i get burned out and need to ask the experts.
08-25-2019, 05:40 AM
#9
You really need to use proper low-temp solder with lead in it, the non-lead stuff is TERRIBLE.
Also, your Hazard Fraught iron is probably powerful enough, but the soldering iron should be HOT before trying to solder. Also, if all you have is a pointy tip, cut or grind that thing into a proper chisel tip like this:
Basic steps:
1: Heat iron. Clean the tip with sponge or cleaning wool.
2: Tin the wire ends, and tip of the iron.
3: Use the soldering iron to HEAT THE WORK NOT THE SOLDER. The solder will wick into the wire just fine.
4: Hold the parts together until the solder has cooled and solidified. Give it a firm test pull, and you should be good to go.
Also, your Hazard Fraught iron is probably powerful enough, but the soldering iron should be HOT before trying to solder. Also, if all you have is a pointy tip, cut or grind that thing into a proper chisel tip like this:
Basic steps:
1: Heat iron. Clean the tip with sponge or cleaning wool.
2: Tin the wire ends, and tip of the iron.
3: Use the soldering iron to HEAT THE WORK NOT THE SOLDER. The solder will wick into the wire just fine.
4: Hold the parts together until the solder has cooled and solidified. Give it a firm test pull, and you should be good to go.
08-25-2019, 08:31 AM
#10
08-25-2019, 11:46 AM
#11
Tech Adept
The trick is a good iron. For low cost, hobbico makes an 60w iron for less than $10. My favorite is an 90w LRP that runs $200+, super fast heatup, temp control, and quick change tips. It’s a rebrand out of China that can be found cheaper as an off brand. Mid level there are a couple people who make 12v units that run around $100. I use a mypitspace in my tool box and the lrp stays at home on the bench.
Also try and find lead based 60/40 solder. It really works better. Problem is it’s no longer used commercially as lead solder was banned a few years ago.
Also try and find lead based 60/40 solder. It really works better. Problem is it’s no longer used commercially as lead solder was banned a few years ago.
Last edited by slotracer577; 08-27-2019 at 04:53 PM.
08-25-2019, 04:47 PM
#13
Also clamp the Deans in a pair or Hemostats when soldering. THis will make it way easier.
08-25-2019, 06:07 PM
#14
08-26-2019, 07:52 PM
#15
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
There's a checkpoint station on eBay at $27 including shipping with no bids. It's a 60 watt so plenty of power. You'll be amazed at the difference a decent iron makes compared to the cheapie ones. I struggled for years with a cheap iron from Walmart and I always got so aggravated because I was melting all my connectors. I thought I was just bad at soldering until I got an adjustable temp soldering station and it was night and day difference! Set the temp to about 650 and make sure you don't forget the flux and you'll be golden.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F293201078317
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F293201078317