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Protek 160t. 55g, all the torque and speed you need for 1/0th scales. Low profile case frees up room on the chassis.
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
(Post 15433698)
I really like the overload protection feature, which you can see in action when setting up endpoints. If the servo is trying to strain past the endpoint, after a second the servo will move back towards centre to relieve the strain. It is a very fast servo and works really well for me. |
Platinum hv 458
Senditrc platinum hv 458.
Top of the line for a good price. Can get them on sendit-rc.com 80 bucks. 458oz at .08 speed. All aluminum case brushless and magnetic cmencoder |
Originally Posted by mixedguy
(Post 15433811)
Senditrc platinum hv 458.
Top of the line for a good price. Can get them on sendit-rc.com 80 bucks. 458oz at .08 speed. All aluminum case brushless and magnetic cmencoder |
You don’t need more than 150 oz of torque in a 1/10th scale. I came from a day when 80 was overkill and now why 450+.. is it numbers like contrast ratio on tvs or ? It comes down to what you are doing with your RC mainly. And a servo saver keeps the servo from destroying steering geometry components such as bellcranks and hubs, casters, spindles... It seems larger torque numbers strain the hubs unnecessarily, and other steering geometry, wheels, casters, etc from over binding torque holding power. There has been a trend for bigger torque over the years and I see why and it is a good thing but it can be a downfall as well. |
Sheesh I spent $12 for a turnigy drift servo. |
Reef's RC Triple4 all the way, this thing is a beast and the customer service is amazing. Reef's company makes gears for a couple well know servo brands so he started selling his own and I'm sold 100%, I love mine. Just over $100 shipped but out of stock at the moment :-(
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Originally Posted by Juglenaut
(Post 15438976)
You don’t need more than 150 oz of torque in a 1/10th scale. I came from a day when 80 was overkill and now why 450+.. is it numbers like contrast ratio on tvs or ? It comes down to what you are doing with your RC mainly. And a servo saver keeps the servo from destroying steering geometry components such as bellcranks and hubs, casters, spindles... It seems larger torque numbers strain the hubs unnecessarily, and other steering geometry, wheels, casters, etc from over binding torque holding power. There has been a trend for bigger torque over the years and I see why and it is a good thing but it can be a downfall as well. Servo savers make sense for bashers, but they have a tendency to create slop and/or create centering issues for some folks... many people will replace the springs on their savers with lock collars to prevent center/slop problems. 1/10 is also a very broad range because there are many 1/10 platforms that are based on 1/8 buggy designs. While not a 1/8 based design I can speak of first hand experience where I stripped my Savox 1258 (166oz-in) on the very first battery pack on my ET410 at a high traction turf track: https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...structions.pdf Many quality kits will provide a recommended servo strength, I have since been running a 277oz-in servo in my ET410 and haven't stripped a gear with that servo yet, but I have snapped the plastic ackermann bar and needed to upgrade it to an aluminum steering rack. |
I suggest the D954SW, it's plenty fast and provides a gratuity of torque. We also may or nay not have something new coming down the pipeline very quickly here that would be an awesome candidate (if you can wait) ;)
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Look into Blue Bird servos. Flight Comp sells them in the US.
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I've liked the savox stuff for high quality and inexpensive. The tekins are super strong and smooth if price isn't a concern. They look real flashy too.
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quality servo
I'll second the post on the hv458 servo. Been running one since the start of the year and its treated me well. Its definitely impressive on high voltage at .08 and 450 oz and for the price its hard to beat. Sendit-rc.com give it a look.
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I used a Futuba s148 in my rc10 and rc10t, rs4 nitros and mt’s and never had issues again this was over kill back in the day. In 1/8 scale 180oz plus plus is recommended. I never broke a s148 in 1/10 scale. IMO it seems like marketing. I am planing ion getting a Futaba S9156 thou for racing and use a HS-645MG for bashing. |
I do agree savers create slop, and most tend to loosen every run. They can be set to very high ounce ratings and medium thread lock helps a lot, setting the stock saver to just below the servo torque is key. Obviously if your servo can push more torque one would set it higher, but knowing this and how much force you want your steering to take in a roll. Breaking hubs and carriers are directly related to stress induced from crashes and a servos action. I upgraded my carriers and hubs to aluminum on my losi 84E with intentions on getting a high torque servo very soon and getting a aluminum bell-crank set up. |
I am looking hard at the Tekin 250 servo for my XB8E 18 XRAY.
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