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Esc help!!
Deverett81 , Today 10:38 AM So I am new to the electric stuff have manly used gas/nitro but getting into electric stuff. My question is about the r10.1 I was reading the specs and it says it makes around 170amps continuously and that you only use 2s batterys. Now I have the castle creations 8th sidewinder on my emaxx and there specs say 150amps continuously and I'm assuming that's on 6s the maxx it can handle. What I'm wondering how dose the r10.1 make so much power on a 2s battery or dose it. I'm building a yeti xl and a traxxas udr from scratch and I'm to the point where I need a esc. Not sure if it's better to spend the 200 something on the r10.1 and get 2s batterys or just get the hobbywing rx8 and 6s batteries. Buy the way I'm just back yard bashing but I do like the better quality stuff
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Current is not power. Power is voltage times current. So to make a certain amount of power at 2S takes three time more current than at 6S. You can't tell just from the ESC how much power you will get. It all depends on the motor and what you do with it. I looked at both of those ESC's. I can't even find a current spec on the Sidewinder. They do suggest a suitable motor. Full specs can be hard to come by with these RC products and I have a tough time figuring it all out.
I was asking some similar questions about 6S vs 4S in an 1/8 scale truggy. Most of the real race ones are setup at 4S but the RTR ones are coming out with 6S. These 6S RTR's have 2300kV motors while the serious racers are running 4S at 2200 kV. For realistics 6S operation you should drop the kV down to something like 1500 but Hobbywing doesn't sell 6S 1/8 cscale motors with that low a kv. Tekin does though. I just put an HW Xerun combo in my Losi 8ight E. They have a longer motor for truggies. Both are about 2200kv. So I will run 4S. Although you can run that motor at 6S and gear it down some, it would be insanely fast probably. So I guess you should think about the HW combo and run at 4S. Unless there is some reason to stay down at 2S, you can make the power with less current and heating at 4S. Run 6S if you want but it may be super overkill. |
Thanks man was about the best explanation I have gotten from anywhere.So I was looking at the Xerun Rx8 with a 2200kv motor. If I did that with the 4s is there a certain C rating I should get on my batteries?
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Originally Posted by Deverett81
(Post 15377341)
Thanks man was about the best explanation I have gotten from anywhere.So I was looking at the Xerun Rx8 with a 2200kv motor. If I did that with the 4s is there a certain C rating I should get on my batteries?
A higher C battery should have a lower IR. If it actually does, less energy will be be left in the battery as heat. If your battery just feels slightly warm after a run, you are OK. If it feels hot like the motor, you need a better battery. Hard core racers may get slightly more power delivered over a race because less voltage is dropped across the battery resistance but they still have to carry the extra weight. Others can say if they actually get better lap times with one battery over another. Bottom line, 40 or 50C should be fine. I am using this battery in my 8ight E 4.0 https://www.genstattu.com/gens-ace-5...eans-plug.html except I changed the connector to EC5. We play race on a dirt track. A bunch of guys have 6S RTR Talions and they run out way before me. I have the 1900kv motor, 14T pinion, 45T spur, and the XR8 Plus ESC. The battery is just slightly warm after a full run. No clue if that would win races but it is more speed than I can handle. |
I just got the spektrum smart batteries. I got 2 of the 3s 5000mah 30c ones. I was asking cuss my 8th sidewinder manual says I need a good 25c batteries. I went with the smart ones cuss I'm new to the hole lipo thing and it makes it super easy to discharge them for storage. All you have to do is plug them into the charger and hit the storage button.
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