Surpass V4S Motors
#226
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Hey Robby, Sucks that you had a bad experience. The beauty of Amazon is their customer service/return policy. send it back if it is a bad product.
Glad Mixedguy was able to help you out.
I recommend buying from a known source such as me or MixedGuy. but I would argue that not all of Amazon is bad. I sell motors on here and my website (Surpassracing.com) but I also sell on Amazon and Ebay. My Motors and descriptions are branded on Amazon as Surpassracing.com and ship from the USA.
BTW - I know you didn't buy that one from me( I dont have any mod motors in yet)
Glad Mixedguy was able to help you out.
I recommend buying from a known source such as me or MixedGuy. but I would argue that not all of Amazon is bad. I sell motors on here and my website (Surpassracing.com) but I also sell on Amazon and Ebay. My Motors and descriptions are branded on Amazon as Surpassracing.com and ship from the USA.
BTW - I know you didn't buy that one from me( I dont have any mod motors in yet)
#229
Thank for the info. The motor from Amazon is still a damn good motor. , it's just you can tell it's been sitting in a humid warehouse for quite some time. It didn't affect performance, but you know this hobby has a big influence on the bling factor lol. I only got one from Amazon because I needed one quickly for a big race.
#232
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
The other option is de-solder the sensor board. There are six header pins that you can desolder fairly easily and the sensor board should pop off then you remove the bearing and replace it.
Let me know if I can help
#233
Tech Regular
I got a 17.5T with a dodgy sensor board and have been sent a new one under warranty. Only thing us, I have never taken a motor apart and have no idea how ti replace the board. I'm pretty sure there will be some decent tutorials or videos around, can anyone point me in the right direction?
#234
Tech Rookie
I got a 17.5T with a dodgy sensor board and have been sent a new one under warranty. Only thing us, I have never taken a motor apart and have no idea how ti replace the board. I'm pretty sure there will be some decent tutorials or videos around, can anyone point me in the right direction?
#236
Tech Apprentice
Did anyone tested the 21.5T in touring car class? How does it feel, comparing to Trinity Monster Max?
#237
Bearings.
I Agree it is a PITA, . The Simple fix, is to buy a new sensor board that already has the replacement bearing in it. I sell them in my store, $25 normally, but for you I can do $20 shipped. I should have more in stock tomorrow.
The other option is de-solder the sensor board. There are six header pins that you can desolder fairly easily and the sensor board should pop off then you remove the bearing and replace it.
Let me know if I can help
The other option is de-solder the sensor board. There are six header pins that you can desolder fairly easily and the sensor board should pop off then you remove the bearing and replace it.
Let me know if I can help
#238
Tech Rookie
#239
What timing and gearing are you running your 21.5 at in usgt? I have a couple guys about to use some in their touring cars. I ran the 17.5t in my 1/12 tonight. I didn't not do a back to back with my monster max but I was fairly impressed with this motor. I started out at 49° on my motolyser and a 74 rollout. Seemed a but sluggish out of the corner so I dropped the timing a little, probably around 46°. Seemed to have good rip after that and had 3 tenths fade over 8 minutes. Btw my home track is only like ~60x30 so timing and gearing will vary slightly. I will get actual timing numbers and what it says on the can when I get back to the track. I was able to consistently get this particular motor to read out at 0.0 deviation and 1° asemetry after reshimming properly.
#240
Tech Rookie
What timing and gearing are you running your 21.5 at in usgt? I have a couple guys about to use some in their touring cars. I ran the 17.5t in my 1/12 tonight. I didn't not do a back to back with my monster max but I was fairly impressed with this motor. I started out at 49° on my motolyser and a 74 rollout. Seemed a but sluggish out of the corner so I dropped the timing a little, probably around 46°. Seemed to have good rip after that and had 3 tenths fade over 8 minutes. Btw my home track is only like ~60x30 so timing and gearing will vary slightly. I will get actual timing numbers and what it says on the can when I get back to the track. I was able to consistently get this particular motor to read out at 0.0 deviation and 1° asemetry after reshimming properly.