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Old 01-15-2019, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mixedguy View Post
no problem. Your almost there on the numbers . Hopefully the other tips I gave you will get you to the numbers you want. I run these in offroad and they run pretty cool for me. So you maybe able to achieve the speed you are looking for with gearing. I would suggest going with what you used before then gear up or down as needed. Not sure of your tra k or if your looking for more top or bottom. Just play around with gearing to you get what feels good to you at a decent temp.
I will try those couple of things. Iíll see how it is on the track and go from there. Am I correct in thinking the RPM would be lower on the analyzer with a stronger rotor? This motor does seem to have some torque spinning it by hand. Iím hoping thatís the case anyway. I run on smaller clay tracks so that wouldnít be a bad thing.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:36 AM
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If you get a chance, pull apart the motor and check that the rotor is not rubbing in the centre of the end bell where the sensor board is.
Nick Adams pointed it out on the review of the motor, the inside of end bell can rub on the end of the rotor shaft depending on the shimming.
This may will increase friction and hence reduce power.
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Old 01-16-2019, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Fredp1 View Post
If you get a chance, pull apart the motor and check that the rotor is not rubbing in the centre of the end bell where the sensor board is.
Nick Adams pointed it out on the review of the motor, the inside of end bell can rub on the end of the rotor shaft depending on the shimming.
This may will increase friction and hence reduce power.
Thanks for the recommendation. I had already done that. Doesn't rub from the factory, but after shimming the rotor closer to the sensor board (which changes nothing performance wise) it will rub.
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mx836 View Post


I will try those couple of things. Iíll see how it is on the track and go from there. Am I correct in thinking the RPM would be lower on the analyzer with a stronger rotor? This motor does seem to have some torque spinning it by hand. Iím hoping thatís the case anyway. I run on smaller clay tracks so that wouldnít be a bad thing.
Both rotor strength and air gap will affect free running rpm. FWIW, free spinning rpm is almost meaningless to overall performance. My surpass motors don't rev any higher than any of my previous motors on the analyzer, but they push the cars much faster on the track.
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Old 01-16-2019, 10:06 AM
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User waitwhat shared this article a few days ago that I found very useful in understanding the relationship between timing and electric motor performance. It can be summarized with this statement - "more is not necessarily better". With a little understanding of how the magnetic fields migrate when the motor spins, it becomes clear that as motor design improves and stator resistance drops, optimum timing advance drops.

The way I plan to take advantage of this new (to me) knowledge is to use my motor analyzer to test my motors across a range of timing settings to approximate the point of diminishing return with advance. I susect the newer the motor, the lower that timing setting will be. I also expect that the free spinning amp draw may not figure in as a good estimator of performance (my 13.5 pulls 3.5 amps now, runs like a scalded cat..).

It's a good read, check it out if you haven't.

https://pphaneuf.github.io/rccars/ar...timing-theory/
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
User waitwhat shared this article a few days ago that I found very useful in understanding the relationship between timing and electric motor performance. It can be summarized with this statement - "more is not necessarily better". With a little understanding of how the magnetic fields migrate when the motor spins, it becomes clear that as motor design improves and stator resistance drops, optimum timing advance drops.

The way I plan to take advantage of this new (to me) knowledge is to use my motor analyzer to test my motors across a range of timing settings to approximate the point of diminishing return with advance. I susect the newer the motor, the lower that timing setting will be. I also expect that the free spinning amp draw may not figure in as a good estimator of performance (my 13.5 pulls 3.5 amps now, runs like a scalded cat..).

It's a good read, check it out if you haven't.

https://pphaneuf.github.io/rccars/ar...timing-theory/
Excellent read! Thanks for posting that. Makes me want a dyno.
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:28 PM
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Here is my new 17.5 numbers I will try to rock this weekend at a trophy race. 2wd stock buggy yokomo yz dtm2 at a medium to large high bite indoor clay track. Should be very interesting.
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mx836 View Post
Excellent read! Thanks for posting that. Makes me want a dyno.
Hence why I built my own..
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Old 01-17-2019, 04:44 AM
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ordered 13.5 to try it on carpet\astro, going to compare with tekin spec-r.
what spur\pinion or fdr everyone is using? 2.5 internal (yz4sf). I assume something around 27\80?
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Old 01-17-2019, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dabear View Post
ordered 13.5 to try it on carpet\astro, going to compare with tekin spec-r.
what spur\pinion or fdr everyone is using? 2.5 internal (yz4sf). I assume something around 27\80?
I was anywhere from 7.5 - 7 FDR on mine. Small to large track. Also used a fan.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:15 AM
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Just wanted to give a quick update. After taking apart and messing with the V4S motors I have found a few things. First the bearing that is in the sensor board is trapped in between the sensor board and aluminum timing assembly. Secondly I noticed the shimming is rather tight from the factory. After some inspection and troubleshooting I found part of the issue to be the centering nipple that is on the center of the timing back plate. After removing shims to attempt to get the rotor in the "sweet spot" it started hitting said nipple. So I then ground down the aluminum to get clearance for the rotor shaft. This did not seem to effect the sensor board alignment due to it seating in the ring very nicely. But it did seem to get the deviation down a little from where I started with better rpm numbers afterward. I would like to note I am going to be selling a few V4S motors that will be gone threw and tuned if anyone is interested send me a PM for info. Each motor will come with one ceramic bearing (the one I can change and with all the numbers including coil resistance, timing angle, sensor deviation, rotor strength, and rotor assemetry. I have 10.5T, 13.5T, 17.5T, 21.5T, and 25.5T.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:19 AM
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Guys you need to get your motors from the members here that are selling them! Look at the difference between the 10.5 I got from mixedguy (TOP) compared to the 8.5 I got on Amazon (bottom) because I needed a mod motor quick. Definitely fresher motors coming from our rctech buddies!

PS thanks mixedguy for the sweet motor 😁
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Old 01-17-2019, 10:02 AM
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that motor was sold to you as "new"? it's clearly used. solder on the tabs, carpet fiber everywhere. if that is right out of the box, i'd contact amazon and get your money back.
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Old 01-17-2019, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
that motor was sold to you as "new"? it's clearly used. solder on the tabs, carpet fiber everywhere. if that is right out of the box, i'd contact amazon and get your money back.
Sorry for the confusion on that. I ran one race day on the 8.5 that's why it's soldered. It was too much for SCT. But both motors were bought only a few weeks apart. I was just referring to the difference in the fresh color of the motor I got from mixedguy. The other motor from Amazon is a little dull and already has some tarnish on the stator. I didn't notice the difference untill I got a fresh motor
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Old 01-17-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Robby368 View Post
Guys you need to get your motors from the members here that are selling them! Look at the difference between the 10.5 I got from mixedguy (TOP) compared to the 8.5 I got on Amazon (bottom) because I needed a mod motor quick. Definitely fresher motors coming from our rctech buddies!

PS thanks mixedguy for the sweet motor 😁
Hey Robby, Sucks that you had a bad experience. The beauty of Amazon is their customer service/return policy. send it back if it is a bad product.

Glad Mixedguy was able to help you out.

I recommend buying from a known source such as me or MixedGuy. but I would argue that not all of Amazon is bad. I sell motors on here and my website (Surpassracing.com) but I also sell on Amazon and Ebay. My Motors and descriptions are branded on Amazon as Surpassracing.com and ship from the USA.

BTW - I know you didn't buy that one from me( I dont have any mod motors in yet)
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