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differences in 17.5 trinity monster max motors
Hoping that someone can help me out here and explain what the difference is between all the trinity monster max 17.5 motors? If I am looking to get one for 2wd buggy should I just get the buggy variation or the regular off road variation or the truck variation...what exactly is the difference between them??
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Marketing gimmick
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If if you look on Trinity’s website it clearly tells you what the differences are. Scroll down |
Yep, scroll down and there will be 3 options. There is lots of marketing, but there are some performance advantages. Any of the monster max motors are good. If you do end of getting the Certified version, you might as well get the aluminum timing and stator screws, as well as the Teflon shims. I use Teflon shims in my team powers motors but haven't tried the screws.
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just make sure you get the one with the copper rotor. that is the preferred rotor for off road.
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Originally Posted by Slo_E4
(Post 15217081)
If if you look on Trinity’s website it clearly tells you what the differences are. Scroll down https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-tr...502x0b/p590953 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-tr...502x0t/p590954 |
They dont say what the difference is.but I can see the timing is different on the endbell. look at the pics and note where the black screw is in relation to the 60 timing mark. The buggy motor appears to have more timing built into it.
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Most of this stuff is marketing bs from Trinity. Can you drive well enough to be within .5 second every lap? If not, literally none of these tiny differences mean anything to you. Pick any semi-recent motor, gear it correctly and you will be fine. You may think you need top level stuff, but unless you are a good enough driver, there is no way you will be held back by mid-level, or even a cheap motor/esc.
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If you have the money, get the good stuff. Running what you think is best will improve your motivation. If you run a mid-level motor, you may think that you are losing because you don't have the best electronics. Anything around $100 from a well known brand will be fine.
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Originally Posted by urnotevenwrg2
(Post 15220535)
Most of this stuff is marketing bs from Trinity. Can you drive well enough to be within .5 second every lap? If not, literally none of these tiny differences mean anything to you. Pick any semi-recent motor, gear it correctly and you will be fine. You may think you need top level stuff, but unless you are a good enough driver, there is no way you will be held back by mid-level, or even a cheap motor/esc.
Ironically, the best trinity motor i've had was out of the box, no certified upcharge crap. Others have had the same experience as well. |
Originally Posted by rcbuggy88
(Post 15220594)
If you have the money, get the good stuff. Running what you think is best will improve your motivation. If you run a mid-level motor, you may think that you are losing because you don't have the best electronics. Anything around $100 from a well known brand will be fine.
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Originally Posted by ironpeddler
(Post 15220170)
Ok, so I can not find these anywhere on trinity's website. I have looked at everything...am i still just missing something on their website? I now understand the 1506 differences what about these 1502?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-tr...502x0b/p590953 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-tr...502x0t/p590954 |
LoL, they are not on Trinity's website that's why i had to link amains website cause amain actually has them listed. Have you looked at Trinity's website lately? It does not say anything about any part #1502 electric monster max motor. Hard to form an opinion on something that is not listed on the manufacturers website but listed on a sellers website. That doesn't make much sense unless the 1502 monster max motors are discontinued, and only 1506 are available.
Thanks for the help! |
Plus, if you get the best stuff, you have no one to blame it on except yourself,lol. Buy middle of the road stuff and you can blame on that! Its not true. but you can still blame it. The comment about if you routinely need to be marshaled more than once is true. Save some money and use it for practice fees.
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1502 is the older Monster Revenge and 1506 is the Monster Max. I have had experience with certified and non, depending on racing type, may I suggest a team spec which is only 15 more and get the copper rotor (1119). You will probably have to call them directly but Kevin there is great and he will get you what you need. Unlike other manufacturers (again personal experience) there is not as much difference in the certified as box stock as far as stator resistance. Fantom motor between stock and works plus version is up to 1 mohm difference which is very big. Monsters Max I have seen a variance of a tenth or two so the rotors is the big differences. |
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