Give Team EA Motorsports cells a try. I've only heard good stuff about 'em, and I have a couple on the way myself.

In TheJANGs graph the expensive packs have a higher voltage throughout the run up until they prematurely run out of juice. They'd probably still be a better choice on the track and probably have a higher actual C rating.

Aren't everyones batteries made in China, and in just a few different factories anyways?

you don't by chance have any idea the weight on any of their 2s packs do you?

314g for the eam 6k, and 278g for the lcg 6k. That is what was posted in the "big lipo or light weight" thread in the electric onroad forum.

It's really a shame that URC shut down, because I had a link back to the review thread which had a copy of his transcript from the video, so I'm gonna do my best to paraphrase what TheJANG said.

There was no argument that the MaxAmps batteries were higher C rating, however the tests showed the voltage under load wasn't statistically significant to warrant the price and you get essentially get the same performance on the track with a budget brand. TheJANG had ran many tests at his local track (NorCal Hobbies) to prove his results with quantifiable lap times. There comes a point of diminishing return on cost per C rating and TheJANG uncovered that gap at somewhere between 40C --> 60C... anything above isn't going to be worth the price for most applications.

Simply put ( in my own words) Max Amps is nothing short of snake oil salesmen :(

Ohm's law: V=I X R. If R is lower, that means ESC can pull more I out of battery per second which equals more power, correct? Or is it V that changes?

My questions are:

1. If remaining voltage in battery pack toward end of race is higher (maybe HV pack, or maybe high mAh pack), does that really mean less fading? I never use more than 6A pack in 17.5T racing as it seems a overkill and increases chassis' weight. But people try to use as high mAh batteries as possible. So it seems logical to me that those think that higher mAh batteries experience less fading. But I thought motor can pull so much voltage from the pack in a given time. So as long as the voltage doesn't drop below around 3.7V per cell, the car shouldn't slow down. No?

2. On motor dyno, general consensus on I is more or less 6A. Does that mean motor pulls 6A per how long a time?

1. yes a higher V will give you a faster run ..and you can not use a higher voltage lipo in many event..so why use..if you start at 8.4 not 8.70.. you still end up in same boat in end..if you have more mah then you end voltage will be more so more will have more rpm

2. dyno results don't give real life running with cars weight and G force applied results so the # is wrong.run a watt meter inbetween battery and esc and see real #.on a track!
3 whats motors timing at? set at less than 5 or pushing 40+


Bye URC .. really..lol

I thought i'd post here, rather than start a new thread. I realise i'm asking a lot of questions over the forums so I don't want to be a pain.

I'm moving over to Brushless racing from Nitro, so I have no idea what size battery to get. My track requires 2c 7.4v batteries but I don't know what size to get to ensure I go the race distance without running out of juice. I'm hopefully going to be running an ARC R10 with a 17.5t motor in it.

I understand an appreciate that all tracks are different in length of track and duration of race but assuming this isn't an endurance race, is there a minimum mAh battery you folks would recommend please?

:flaming: The one that is getting charged at 80amps!!

Reedy Zappers ASC27322 is pretty hawt where I race. It's a shorty (of course), 4800mAh, 7.6v HV-lipo. Can't keep 'em stock, they're like candy bars.

Pretty much anything will easily last the distance. Most people get the high capacity packs to try to maintain a higher average voltage towards the end of the race, at the expense of weight. You'd probably want something in the 5000-8000 range.

Excellent, thanks for the info.

I run the Vant batteries and they always perform. Using them in all vehicles except my 2wd buggy, Reedy there.

I was looking at the for sale thread and I see a post for (NEW Venom 2s 7200mah 100C) he has it priced under what I can order one off of eBay but companied to an SMC of similar type there is a huge difference. I have always had good luck with the SMC just wondering what makes some of the higher priced batteries worth so much and how they are better.