OttoKrosse

iTrader: (4)

Really low battery IQ....needs lifting...desparately.

When is the best time to measure IR?...as the battery is almost fully charged or near the beginning of charging process? 3 current batteries IR ohms are over: 6, 7 & 3


I'm using the I-charger 406 duo, when discharging, what is the recommended voltage level when ending the race day?....what should I use: Storage or Discharge?

I noticed that when I use the Discharge setting the regular lipo battery goes down to about 6.6v and recovers to settle at about 7.4v, when discharging using the Storage setting it goes down to about 7.2 and settles at about 7.7v....what method is best to maintain a low battery IR?....or does it make a difference?

Will charging / discharging techniques change with Graphene type batteries vs regular Lipos?

Been charging at 20 amps, but would like to bump that up to 30 or 40 amps, should I pick one and charge my new Graphene batteries at that rate for all future charging cycles?

Is there a recommended break-in method for Graphene batteries?


.....any tips or advice would be very much appreciated.

Thank you in advance, any input would be appreciated

robk

iTrader: (22)

The only reason to charge at a high rate is to increase internal temperature of the battery and thereby lower the IR. That is also the reason for high rate discharge cycling.

If simply heating the battery to a higher temperature was allowed, that would be the preferred method, since it does not cycle or tax the battery. (Many tracks and ruling bodies have a limit of measured battery case temperature over ambient, like + 10* or whatever, so internal heating by charge/discharge cycle is the only way to gain the lowered IR)

The best way to keep track of IR would be to do it at a consistent moment: After charging, or after the run, or first charge of the day, etc. Just do the same thing every time. Otherwise, fluctuation in conditions will skew your records.

As far as graphenes, they seem to need a little time to settle down, more so than typical lipos. I recently had a pack that showed high on IR the first weekend I used it, but then was very low. I have been told this is typical.

Doug10

iTrader: (2)

When you say settled down, do you mean extended break in period? I know we ran the Fantom 6200 100c before, and since it was in a sprint car and it heybare a pain in the Arsh to get In and out, we cycled the same pack all night long and the Ir stayed low and got better as the night went on. We have 1 race weekend on the graphene series that replaced it but was curious if you think with graphene we need two packs to cycle back and forth or if you were referring to just the break in period.

OttoKrosse

iTrader: (4)

My reference to 'settle down' was about the voltage settling after a discharge when the voltage bumps up from it's lowest point after the discharge cycle is complete.

I run 17.5 TC and 21.5 USGT so I always have at least 2 battery packs. Just bought 2 new Maclan 6400 graphene packs and a lightly used R1 graphene pack so I can always have 1 pack ready to go after a race....since there is not always enough time to charge before my next race. Will be discussing this with my local racers this weekend so I should have a solid charging/discharging program planned out by Sunday.

Thank you gentlemen for responding.

burnnitro

iTrader: (2)

the guide above is very weak. here is one with much more in depth info,
https://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/

Phillip F

iTrader: (43)

graphene is different. IRs won't go down with discharging and charging before a heat. That only works with regular 7.4V Lipos

I have both. With graphene batts you just charge it..... discharge it for storage only.

AND .. btw... when you do that cycling "discharge/charge" before a heat.... it only makes a difference when you have a motor that has low IR....and run the pack as soon as it finish cycling.

urnotevenwrg2

iTrader: (1)

Ummmm, no. If you discharge and charge aggressively enough to build heat in the pack, it will lower the internal resistance. Whether it is a regular lipo pack, HV, or Graphene. The HV Graphene packs just take the abuse better. I got an entire year out of a Protek pack doing 11C/10C discharge/charge cycles before my last pack increased in IR, lost capacity, and got puffy. I watch my IR numbers like a hawk. I know the health of my packs very well.

The difference in performance is noticeable no matter which motor you have. The more powerful the motor, the more you notice. Even still, you have to be a really good driver to make real use of the power gain. In spec class racing, if you get motored on the straight it isn't because that guy has the best motor and craziest charging methods. It's because he caried more corner speed through the corner before the straight, and he has good equipment.

Phillip F

iTrader: (43)

yeah.. Graphene would go lower but it won't be as low as a regular 7.4v lipo. I have SMCs and Protek Graphene batts. 2 cycles at 30A discharge then 30A charge will get my SMCs down to 1.5ohms...the graphene doesn't go down to 1.9ohms IR. For some reason the graphene performs the same with and without cycling.....well, sometimes even better without cycling.

Yes no matter which motor.. it will gain a bit of power in the first 2 minutes but a motor with low IRs will give you blistering power.. I can compare this with the motors I raced with in 2017 (17.5t 2wd buggy) Reedy M3, Trinity Monster, Maclan, Team Powers Actinium.... compared to the new Fantom V2 (red can) and the Team Scream which are insanely fast.


Of course this is based from my experience with all these products.

urnotevenwrg2

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, and when I cycle my Graphene batteries at a 40 amp discharge and 36 amp charge, my IR numbers are around 0.9 mOhm. I tried the Orion 3800, and a Trinity low profile shorty, neither of them could handle the cycling. The Orion might have actually been okay, the IR numbers I was getting were not what they should have been, but it was probably because of the way I had my charge harness wired. The Trinity straight up failed though.

That is a long list of motors. I have a non-short stack Schuur Speed v3. I bought it off here for $50, and I have yet to feel out motored, but there are not too many people in my area that have the newest generation of motor, and the driving ability to beat me. I can usually have high enough corner speed to make up for my slightly old motor.

I really want to try the new Tekin Spec-R motor. But, I also just saw some info on the new Schuur Speed v4, and now I want one of those. The new Schuur Speed is still a bit away, so I might get the Tekin since it is only $99.