Hobbywing XR10 Just Stock, stock spec, and pro
#1
Hobbywing XR10 Just Stock, stock spec, and pro
for 17.5 blinky mode racing in 2wd buggy does having one esc or the other give you more advantage?
I searched the forums but couldn’t find an answer to this specific question
thank you
I searched the forums but couldn’t find an answer to this specific question
thank you
#2
I would like to know also. I know the Pro has more amps but that's it.
#3
Tech Addict
Justock is the cheapest coming in at around $50. It will run up to 11.5t motors. It will run 60 amps continuous. The stock spec pro v4 is probably the best, lightest, and smallest esc for stock racing. It runs 80 amps continuous and is about $120. It will only run up to 13.5t motors but is significantly smaller. The xr10 pro will run mod motors and has a 160 amp continuous. It can run boost and turbo and can be changed through the wireless thingy. It is $200.
#4
First off there is a Radio & Electronics section, and this question should definitely be posted there.
Second, the more adjustments an esx has the more potential you have to make the esc work best for you. Conversely, if you are new, a bunch of settings will probably hurt more than help. This is where a more experienced person could help you optimize your esc settings, but if you buy a nice esc and leave the settings alone until you really should be good to go. If you do want to make changes, make one change at a time, and test to see how that changes impacted the performance.
Additionally, I have seen 100+ amp current draws from my 17.5 2 2wd buggy on my data logging, so I would try to get an esc rated for at least that much.
Second, the more adjustments an esx has the more potential you have to make the esc work best for you. Conversely, if you are new, a bunch of settings will probably hurt more than help. This is where a more experienced person could help you optimize your esc settings, but if you buy a nice esc and leave the settings alone until you really should be good to go. If you do want to make changes, make one change at a time, and test to see how that changes impacted the performance.
Additionally, I have seen 100+ amp current draws from my 17.5 2 2wd buggy on my data logging, so I would try to get an esc rated for at least that much.
#5
Tech Regular
I asked this same question recently but of different ESC, Trackstar 80amp turbo (cheapies that I have), Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 (better ESC I have, old but was good in its day) and a new one (whatever the hobby store had for sale).
An electrical engineer friend said the motor determines the demand for power and the battery delivers it, the ESC sits between. So as long as the ESC isn't horrendously inefficient then it shouldn't make much difference. This makes sense to me and the guy who told me is not only smart but this is also his day job.
I've also been told all sorts like stock racing (I run 17.5T blinky too) needs a better ESC than mod as it needs to deliver more current for the 17.5T to clear the double. That is clearly wrong. Take advice with a grain of salt as it depends what they are selling.
However, the better the ESC the higher quality components used in them hence they are more efficient, so they will be marginally better than a cheap one. My feeling is a very cheap one like the trackstar could be as much as 10% less efficient than a top model. This is based on thr manufacturing, a lot of componenets are graded for quality and the best go into the best, then next tier down, finally the cheapest get the ones that are good enough that they aren't junk but not great.
I needed a new motor which prompted the ESC question so I ended up with the Orca B32 (equivalent to the Just Stock in your list) and the Blitreme 17.5T motor. Bascially it was worth getting a combo for me as you get a combo discount and I wanted to upgrade very cheap trackstar gear.
Remeber the ESC has 2 amp ratings, continuous and burst, so the 80/100amp stock ESC will have a burst of 320/400ish which allows for those spikes over the continuous rating.
My opinion (remember just opinion so could be wrong) is that the stock type ESC are the ones to get for stock racing. So Hobbywing Just Stock, Orca B32, Muchmore Euro v2, Maclan Pico etc. They are specifically designed for it so well within spec, cheaper, lighter, smaller etc. They may even be better as the firmware is specifically designed for blinky racing but I don't know that for sure.
An electrical engineer friend said the motor determines the demand for power and the battery delivers it, the ESC sits between. So as long as the ESC isn't horrendously inefficient then it shouldn't make much difference. This makes sense to me and the guy who told me is not only smart but this is also his day job.
I've also been told all sorts like stock racing (I run 17.5T blinky too) needs a better ESC than mod as it needs to deliver more current for the 17.5T to clear the double. That is clearly wrong. Take advice with a grain of salt as it depends what they are selling.
However, the better the ESC the higher quality components used in them hence they are more efficient, so they will be marginally better than a cheap one. My feeling is a very cheap one like the trackstar could be as much as 10% less efficient than a top model. This is based on thr manufacturing, a lot of componenets are graded for quality and the best go into the best, then next tier down, finally the cheapest get the ones that are good enough that they aren't junk but not great.
I needed a new motor which prompted the ESC question so I ended up with the Orca B32 (equivalent to the Just Stock in your list) and the Blitreme 17.5T motor. Bascially it was worth getting a combo for me as you get a combo discount and I wanted to upgrade very cheap trackstar gear.
Remeber the ESC has 2 amp ratings, continuous and burst, so the 80/100amp stock ESC will have a burst of 320/400ish which allows for those spikes over the continuous rating.
My opinion (remember just opinion so could be wrong) is that the stock type ESC are the ones to get for stock racing. So Hobbywing Just Stock, Orca B32, Muchmore Euro v2, Maclan Pico etc. They are specifically designed for it so well within spec, cheaper, lighter, smaller etc. They may even be better as the firmware is specifically designed for blinky racing but I don't know that for sure.
#6
I would think the burst current rating is literally just for start up from zero motor rpm. I was seeing 100 amp draws most laps. My data logger works at a 10Hz sample rate, so start up current from a dead stop is not really something I could see in my data.
I can pretty much drive a 17.5 buggy at the limit of what is physically possible, and my Tekin RS Pro comes off the track at around 135°F. If I had a lower rated esc I'm sure I would feel held back by the esc, and I would probably cook the esc.
I can pretty much drive a 17.5 buggy at the limit of what is physically possible, and my Tekin RS Pro comes off the track at around 135°F. If I had a lower rated esc I'm sure I would feel held back by the esc, and I would probably cook the esc.
#7
Great replies!! 😊
also, now between the Just Stock and the stock spec. Is there a significant difference I will notice between the two? I only race no bashing at all..I’ve been running an older esc for some time now and think it la time to upgrade and keep the old one for back up.
thanks!
also, now between the Just Stock and the stock spec. Is there a significant difference I will notice between the two? I only race no bashing at all..I’ve been running an older esc for some time now and think it la time to upgrade and keep the old one for back up.
thanks!
#8
All other things being equal, the best esc for stock racing is the one with the lowest internal resistance.
#9
Which esc are you currently using?
If I were you, I would buy a Tekin RS Spec from amain for $113 if you were interested in a budget upgrade esc. Tekin's owners and team manager post on rctech regularly, so you can get your questions answered very easily. Not many other esc manufacturers can say that.
#10
Tech Addict
First off there is a Radio & Electronics section, and this question should definitely be posted there.
Second, the more adjustments an esx has the more potential you have to make the esc work best for you. Conversely, if you are new, a bunch of settings will probably hurt more than help. This is where a more experienced person could help you optimize your esc settings, but if you buy a nice esc and leave the settings alone until you really should be good to go. If you do want to make changes, make one change at a time, and test to see how that changes impacted the performance.
Additionally, I have seen 100+ amp current draws from my 17.5 2 2wd buggy on my data logging, so I would try to get an esc rated for at least that much.
Second, the more adjustments an esx has the more potential you have to make the esc work best for you. Conversely, if you are new, a bunch of settings will probably hurt more than help. This is where a more experienced person could help you optimize your esc settings, but if you buy a nice esc and leave the settings alone until you really should be good to go. If you do want to make changes, make one change at a time, and test to see how that changes impacted the performance.
Additionally, I have seen 100+ amp current draws from my 17.5 2 2wd buggy on my data logging, so I would try to get an esc rated for at least that much.
The hobbywing stock spec pro v4 is the way to go for $120. I would only get the tekin if I got the rs pro. The juststock is cheaper, but heavier and bulkier.
#11
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
I have the juststock and the xr10pro stockspec, so I have driven both. My stockspec is V3 but very similar. Of the 2 I prefer the stockspec because of a lower resistance, higher current rating, and brakes, although the throttle feels smoother too. The first two are self explanatory the brakes though. The just stock has good brakes but the stock spec is just stronger and of course adjustable for less if the track is slick. FYI, I have been using it with 2 motors, a Team scream Racing 17.5 and a Maclan Racing MC2 17.5. So both are a higher current fast motor. And the ESC has gotten barely above room temp with NO FAN. I also have a advanced electronics Black Diamond LV speed control and I use this more because of the smaller foot print and easier to change settings, so price was not the issue when I bought them...but glad I did.
Last edited by sickpuppy1; 05-20-2018 at 05:34 PM.
#12
Those current draws are burst currents and the stock spec pro v4 can handle 380A burst on the manufacturer's website.
The hobbywing stock spec pro v4 is the way to go for $120. I would only get the tekin if I got the rs pro. The juststock is cheaper, but heavier and bulkier.
The hobbywing stock spec pro v4 is the way to go for $120. I would only get the tekin if I got the rs pro. The juststock is cheaper, but heavier and bulkier.
#13
I’m running an old Novak brushless esc I got used but runs ok..I just want something a bit newer with some sort of warranty
#15
Tech Master
iTrader: (67)
I have the the XR10 pro and XR10 pro stock. Both are great esc's. You will notice no difference in them with a 17.5 or 13.5 motor. From what the experts have told me is that there is no advantage to the higher amp esc for stock racing. Your on going to use so much of what it has to offer and the stock one has more than enough for stock racing. I like the XR10 stock for my 2wd stock car for its size and super light weight. I run the XR10 Pro in my 4wd. I have also run the Tekin ESCs including the RS Pro. I prefer the Hobbywing stuff. The brakes and overall feel to the Hobbywing suit my driving style. The Tekins may have a lower resistance but you will never notice it. The top ESC companies all have pretty low resistance and it is almost like splitting hairs now.