loaba

iTrader: (1)

So I broke my steering rack a few weeks back and that was an easy upgrade to an aluminum component. I knew the original was a poor design and that a stronger part was needed.

Fast forward to this evening... Camber link ball-studs on both C-hubs have wallowed out the mounting holes in the plastic. Well, okay, I can just tighten 'em down, right? Nope, they don't bite much at all. Ended up going with some 10mm Losi ball-studs for the race. They're much longer than stock and they help up nicely.

So now I have a choice: I can purchase new plastic C-hubs and expect them to wear out in 6 months or I can buy aluminum C-hubs and go from there.

I'm leaning towards the aluminum, if only because I don't think this part should be a wear item. What would you do?

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

I'm guessing this is offroad - I'd stay plastic. It flexes and bends and usually goes back to it's original shape unless it breaks!
Aluminium does not ... hit a pipe or wall, it bends and it's now your new shape c-hub!

Speed Chaser

iTrader: (5)

I 2nd that unless it for drift i try to stay away from the aluminum in suspension component like arms and c hub. Once it bend it will change your setup completely atleast the plastic is cheap enough that when it break its no big lost

loaba

iTrader: (1)

I'll bow to conventional wisdom and order up some plastic C-hubs this time. Thanks for the feedback.

buster8787

no to aluminum, costs too much and bends instead of breaking. Buy 2 or 3 of what you want in plastic

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

On stuff like the C-hubs, I agree completely. There are some exceptions though. On high-grip artificial surface OffRoad, items like the rear hubs and whatever the inner camber mounts are on a particular car can have a tangible benefit from the stiffness aluminum provides.

loaba

iTrader: (1)

Examined the car more fully today (sheared a turnbuckle) and discovered some more ballstuds that were beginning to wallow out. I've come to the conclusion that all this grip is effecting the car in various ways.

To fix some things, I've through-bolted the ballstuds on the front steering knuckles and I've replaced the sheered turnbuckle with Lunsford titanium all around.

I had no idea that carpet was going to be like this, or maybe I should stop hitting stuff?

Laguna Bozo

Not hitting stuff is always a good plan, but, well, you know...
Sounds like you've already found the answers for keeping plastic usable. Ball studs with longer threads, even thru-bolting, is the common method.

loaba

iTrader: (1)

Top Plate is the latest casualty. It's a complex piece of plastic, failure point was left side where the shock tower bolts on. Must have had a rough front collision on the left side. just thought inquiring minds would want to know.

Speed Chaser

iTrader: (5)

If they make a carbon fiber version of this top plate i would replace it with that.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I recently found a new reason to go aluminum in my case at least. If the weight balance is off and can be resolved by adding an aluminum bit in place of plastic, I'm all for that. In fact I am doing it now with a stock car trying to shift weight where I need it without adding additional sticky weights.