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Official 2011 Blue Diamond On Road Scene

Official 2011 Blue Diamond On Road Scene

Old 08-14-2011, 04:04 AM
  #1186  
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Hey guys I'm up in CT. Wife should be there mid morning if its not raining.
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Old 08-14-2011, 04:59 PM
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to bad the rain had to come..... i wanted to try out the new bodies
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:46 PM
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Was wondering if anyone runs xray in electric? i just bought a t2 007 to get into it with and was seeing if any support at the track with them?

Also will Skyrocket guy have 36 sweeps exp at the track next sun i need pick up a set.
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Old 08-14-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by markiemark
Was wondering if anyone runs xray in electric? i just bought a t2 007 to get into it with and was seeing if any support at the track with them?

Also will Skyrocket guy have 36 sweeps exp at the track next sun i need pick up a set.
You've opened up a can of worms with that statement! Anything but a brokosho or a Tamiya is crap according to that Skyrocket guy. (Read through earlier posts or trace back comments from the 2010 season to understand) Luckily Myself, Scooby and a few others run the T3'11 so parts won't be an issue if we're at the track. Personally I have a wide variety of different parts throughout the car that I carry with me. Setups you can look over here but I highly doubt there is anything for this particular model for this track in that database. Tory does carry most parts for the T3/T2 based models check to see what he has in stock.

Last I checked Tory has Solaris, and Sweeps in stock. Just be sure to check the bead on the rim prior to usage, I've blown a few sets running modified with those.

Looks like Wagners and Jackson (?) this weekend for me, hope to be back out and running here next month.

Last edited by Team Speedy; 08-14-2011 at 08:27 PM. Reason: Needed to clarify a misunderstading in my original text.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:35 PM
  #1190  
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Originally Posted by markiemark
Was wondering if anyone runs xray in electric? i just bought a t2 007 to get into it with and was seeing if any support at the track with them?

Also will Skyrocket guy have 36 sweeps exp at the track next sun i need pick up a set.
Dont use Sweeps run Solaris they dont tear, rip or blow out like sweep. Ive had Sweeps rips in under 2 minutes but never had a problem with Solaris.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:56 PM
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Ok thanks. Im getting a bunch of spart parts with it luckly. Main thing is to get it around the track. Guy i got it from said its setup soft for carpet with rubbers so not sure what all i need to do to get it hooked up on the asphalt running 17.5. Then maybe this winter upgrade to a t3 or a exotek chassis to make it a xr07
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:07 AM
  #1192  
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Originally Posted by 666
Ok thanks. I'm getting a bunch of spare parts with it luckily. Main thing is to get it around the track.
I'd only stock up on these parts, as the Xray is built similar to a Panther Tank. The only thing that will stop the tank from rolling is a land mine (pipe) and I'm sure you know the results of that.
  • Suspension parts: Arms, Knuckles, C-Hubs, Rear Hubs (Hint tired of stripping rear hubs, place a set screw in the furthest hole to prevent egging)
  • Spur Gears, 108-116 for mod, I've used 112-116 though. Now for 17.5 I'm using 92-94, mostly 92 right now. (Xray/RW brand)
  • Belts, at least one set at the minimal. If you don't set the tension right in mod you'll be replacing them at a more prolonged rate. Set it right and you will not worry about your belts for a few months. (I've never lost a belt in an Xray and that goes all the way back to the Evo2 FOC model in 2003)
  • Extra screws/shims for roll center adjustment/toe in/out.
  • Springs (either the asphalt black 3.0-2.4 or the White, Yellow, blue sets 14-20lbs)
  • Turnbuckle ends/turnbuckle
  • Extra shock body and lower shock joints. (incase you set your endpoints to deep it may rub the inside joint and wear at it)
Those are the parts I'd recommend at the minimal for the time being. Again depending on how hard and how often you drive this model you may replace parts at a more frequent rate. Xray are build solid, your not going to replace parts as much as say a AE TC3 would have due to sloppiness in the suspension or normal wear and tare. Start slow and work your way around the track, (Hmm that's a good tip for myself..) the layout is rather forgiving but in some spots not so much. Just as a reminder the class is considered open, so any tire, any motor any weight, etc. Yes there will be people running a low turn brushless mod, however the motor of choice is still set at an 10.5 boosted. I prefer to run the Solaris tires only due to the fact that was the tire choice for the 2011 ROAR Asphalt Nationals and I have sets remaining. I've used Sweeps EXP before (insane grip when they don't blow out) and Sorex 36's on a Jaco rim from last year. (Tough to find)

If you have additional questions post here or PM me.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:23 AM
  #1193  
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Man! This thread is DEAD! When is the racing going to pick back up?!?:!?!?!?!
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:56 AM
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This is the car and parts i picked up so not 100% whats all there but i see springs and belts and arms.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...tock-spec.html

Whats the best springs and oil to use. also what gear combo should i start with for 17.5 novak boosted ( 92/?)
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:28 PM
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Whats the best springs and oil to use. also what gear combo should i start with for 17.5 novak boosted ( 92/?)
Here is my setup that I've been running lately. I ran last weekend 600cst and 500cst with plastic shocks. My front springs were 2.8 and 2.6. I've also ran/tried 3.0's and 2.8 in the past few weeks as well. Gearing is the one thing I don't like to give out, since I don't want to be the one responsible for a thermal meltdown. I hope I'm writing the correct information here but I believe I ran between a 5.26-5.54 range in boosted 17.5. Lately I've been running blinky (non boosted) which is in the 3.2 to 3.6 range. I also ran a fan, particularly a high rpm, decent CMF output. I always try to keep my temperatures in the 170*F and below range, since anything higher will contribute to motor fad/internal damage to the motor itself. For a 10.5 I gear around a 5.5 -5.7 ratio, however its been a year since I ran a 10.5 on a weekly basis. I only ran mod/10.5 once this year here.

HTH
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Old 08-15-2011, 02:11 PM
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Ok thank you so much Sir. Cant wait for sun to get here now. Also i was wondering which is better to run boost or blinky ??

Also looks like ill have to get the 2.6 2.8 springs as all the ones it comes with are the older springs in lbs and none seem to match up to the C rated springs.

Last edited by markiemark; 08-15-2011 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:20 PM
  #1197  
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Mark:

You can still run the included springs as indicated in the listing you showed earlier. Yellow and whites are equivent to the 2.8 and 2.6's I've ran or show on my current setup. Keep in mind your also running an 007 model whereas I am running a T3'11 with optional upgraded parts. (See my comments for those parts) Although the cars look similar, the T3 underwent suspension changes including longer arms, and the usage of suspension blocks similar to a Tamiya or Yokomo car. Keep in mind that my transmission ratio is also different from yours, I run a 1.9 with 38 tooth pulleys, yours is a 1.7 with 34 tooth pulleys. A good bit of my setup can be worked into yours but you're better off running the kit setup to start and going from there. Regarding droop over ride height, set the car at 6 and 5 on Hudy blocks (or the equivalent) droop over ride height is set entirely different then the block method. Actually its quite simple to achieve and manage if you know the proper way of setting it!

If your interested in finding out more about the linear spring sets in the c rating, here's an earlier post I've posted in the T3'11 forum months ago.

Originally Posted by Team Speedy
This helped me a while back when I made the transition form lbs to C ratings.

Maybe this example may help you:

C = 2.8

To convert take the C rating and multiply by 5.71(n/mm) which converts to the chart listed by M-Technic.

C=2.2 => 12.5 lb/in
C=2.4 => 13.7 lb/in
C=2.6 => 14.8 lb/in
C=2.8 => 16.0 lb/in
C=3.0 => 17.1 lb/in
C=3.2 => 18.3 lb/in
C=3.4 => 19.4 lb/in

Solve for X:
x = 2.8 (spring rate) * 5.71n/mm -- X ='s 15.988lbs converted. So a 2.8 C spring is equivalent to 15.98 lbs, or 16lbs rounded.

I really hope that helps you!
HTH, if you have additional questions please feel free to ask or PM me.

Side note: Personally I'm liking the blinky specs, similar to the old days of touring stock using brushed motors and round cells! Again not to fast, not to slow, just the right speed. Makes you focus on consistency and that is my game plan for this season, running laps within .1 to .2 back to back. For this track to stay even remotely close to anyone, boosted is the best advice I can give you unless you really need to slow the car down to survive a race then go blinky. Likewise you can take throttle out either through the speed controller (if allowed, tekins will allow you to) or through your controller, (throttle setting) if that setting exists.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:25 PM
  #1198  
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Dan, do you have a speech to text app on your keyboard?
There is no way in the world anyone could have that much free time on their hand to write a short story for every post.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:59 PM
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Thanks so much. Im getting the car in Thursday and going to go over it and see what all i got and compare how he has it setup compared to your setup and the factory setup and see where im at. so yellow is 14lbs and white is 17.5lbs so im close to 2.6 and 2.8 just might pick them up to be able to get it a little closer. Has iv went throught alot of setups and see most people run the 2.8 2.6 or 3.0 2.8 combo since they are still not exact same as the colored springs. I plan on taking it this weekend and talking to people there and seeing if i can get it setup and running by the end of the day hopefully.

Im going pm Tory and see if he has the springs and tires.

Last edited by markiemark; 08-15-2011 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:37 PM
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im hopping its going to nice this weekend...i need to know if anyone has a truer with a 1/8 arbor...i have some tires needs to be trued...
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